S1 280 wiring question
Discussion
Alan Whitaker said:
Hi each one is fed from a 60A fuse, the ones below the relays, the relays are all to be replaced, they are my sons I just stole them for the picture (he wants them back). There is a 100A relay direct from the battery.
Alan
I never show anybody the door, I am always open to listen and improve
OK, I'm the same as yourself, I have often been the 1 in a group of 10 that would say I didn't understand something when knowing damn well none of the others didAlan
I never show anybody the door, I am always open to listen and improve
Looking at the images of your TVR's fuse-boxes and relays layout, I can't see those green cables connected to the 60 AMP fuses so I take it you have yet to connect them
What cable will you have running from those 60 AMP fuses to the 100 AMP relay and what is switching the 100 AMP relay?
Is the battery fitted in the boot?
I will be back in 20 Mins....being shouted at for meal time
Alan Whitaker said:
Battery is in the boot (well will be by Saturday)
What cable will you have running from those 60 AMP fuses to the 100 AMP relay and what is switching the 100 AMP relay?What is the 100 AMP relay like, have you a picture of it?
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Thursday 26th January 20:14
The heavy duty cable running from the battery to the starter motor is sufficient to supply everything, there is no need to run other cables from front to back
Due to the fuses and relays being at the front they can be powered from the main battery cable
The 100 AMP ignition controlled relay in the boot can be fitted close to the fuse-boxes in the front and be switched in the same way. I would like to see that 100 AMP relay, there is an awful lot relying on that relay. Have you looked at any 12 volt continuous current heavy duty solenoids, they work the same as a relay but are much more robust
Is there a real need to be wiring an ignition controlled relay for the main power supplies, have you considered a master switch?
There will be no supplies to anything once the 100 AMP relay is switched off
I don't know how much you know so please excuse me when I mention things that you already know
Here is a link to a very good article for choosing the correct battery cable size for a long run (Front to Back) http://www.wiringproducts.com/battery-cable
A starter motor current draw figure for your engine/set-up will come in handy for this and I don't have that, I would be guessing that the starter could draw 250/300 AMPS when cranking on a cold morning. The starter current draw can be measured with an ammeter that uses a current clamp to go around the cable, the only problem is that if your battery cable is not heavy enough then there will be a big volt drop along that cable when cranking and the meter won't be showing the true current draw, perhaps the starter current draw figure is knocking around the internet
Are you running a negative battery cable from front to back or using the chassis as the return?
Due to the fuses and relays being at the front they can be powered from the main battery cable
The 100 AMP ignition controlled relay in the boot can be fitted close to the fuse-boxes in the front and be switched in the same way. I would like to see that 100 AMP relay, there is an awful lot relying on that relay. Have you looked at any 12 volt continuous current heavy duty solenoids, they work the same as a relay but are much more robust
Is there a real need to be wiring an ignition controlled relay for the main power supplies, have you considered a master switch?
There will be no supplies to anything once the 100 AMP relay is switched off
I don't know how much you know so please excuse me when I mention things that you already know
Here is a link to a very good article for choosing the correct battery cable size for a long run (Front to Back) http://www.wiringproducts.com/battery-cable
A starter motor current draw figure for your engine/set-up will come in handy for this and I don't have that, I would be guessing that the starter could draw 250/300 AMPS when cranking on a cold morning. The starter current draw can be measured with an ammeter that uses a current clamp to go around the cable, the only problem is that if your battery cable is not heavy enough then there will be a big volt drop along that cable when cranking and the meter won't be showing the true current draw, perhaps the starter current draw figure is knocking around the internet
Are you running a negative battery cable from front to back or using the chassis as the return?
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Thursday 26th January 21:36
magpies said:
I've fitted an FIA battery cut off for almost everything and also a small fuse box in the boot fed directly from the battery to feed the clock / radio / central locking / one USB charging point.
That's a good way of doing it, did you wire up the other 2 small terminals to put a resistor in series with the alternator field so as to dump the field to ground when switching the master off with the engine running?Penelope Stopit said:
magpies said:
I've fitted an FIA battery cut off for almost everything and also a small fuse box in the boot fed directly from the battery to feed the clock / radio / central locking / one USB charging point.
That's a good way of doing it, did you wire up the other 2 small terminals to put a resistor in series with the alternator field so as to dump the field to ground when switching the master off with the engine running?
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?Doc...
Sorry you beat me to it
Bedtime here
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Thursday 26th January 22:17
magpies said:
I've fitted an FIA battery cut off for almost everything and also a small fuse box in the boot fed directly from the battery to feed the clock / radio / central locking / one USB charging point.
Hi Mick, Have done the same as you, small a 6 way fuse box for the door locks, charger plug, clock and anything else I may need, not got to the isolator as yet as I have a Optima red top for the car and a Stinger for the audio system, the batteries are run through a Stinger split charger relay, I don't think there is a need to isolate the main battery unless it is a MSA thingy with track days.
Alan
Alan
Those 60 Amp fuses are not needed, you shouldn't be fusing the fuse boxes supply wires with 60 AMP fuses as they are only a short safe run away from the fuse boxes, Those 60 AMP fuses are protecting nothing yet they are lowering the fuse boxes maximum current rating to below 60 AMPS when the boxes themselves are rated 100 AMPS
Problems may arise later. The more unnecessary fuses and relays that are fitted only ups the chances of problems later. There will be volt drops at any connection points and across all fuses and relay contacts.
If you have read my above post you will understand the images below, the rubber exhaust bobbin (or purchased purpose built insulated terminal) can be mounted very close to the fuse boxes and relays as a main battery supply breakout point, this then gives you very short runs of power supply to fuses and relays etc. The battery cut off can still be wired at the rear or up front. Below are a few images showing some options, in the second image I have shown 2 possible power supply breakout points by showing them as dotted lines
![](http://thumbsnap.com/sc/7bS7vTVV.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="http://thumbsnap.com/OFEXN7Hh" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]http://thumbsnap.com/sc/OFEXN7Hh.jpg)
Those 60 Amp fuses are not needed, you shouldn't be fusing the fuse boxes supply wires with 60 AMP fuses as they are only a short safe run away from the fuse boxes, Those 60 AMP fuses are protecting nothing yet they are lowering the fuse boxes maximum current rating to below 60 AMPS when the boxes themselves are rated 100 AMPS
Problems may arise later. The more unnecessary fuses and relays that are fitted only ups the chances of problems later. There will be volt drops at any connection points and across all fuses and relay contacts.
If you have read my above post you will understand the images below, the rubber exhaust bobbin (or purchased purpose built insulated terminal) can be mounted very close to the fuse boxes and relays as a main battery supply breakout point, this then gives you very short runs of power supply to fuses and relays etc. The battery cut off can still be wired at the rear or up front. Below are a few images showing some options, in the second image I have shown 2 possible power supply breakout points by showing them as dotted lines
magpies said:
Calling Penelope Stopit
I am now in the process of rewiring the S - Dash out and wiring on the floor.
I'll post some photos and what I intend to do, but willing to alter to give less volt drop and decent protection but on a budget
Ok, if you start a new topic and post plenty of images of what you've got we can go from thereI am now in the process of rewiring the S - Dash out and wiring on the floor.
I'll post some photos and what I intend to do, but willing to alter to give less volt drop and decent protection but on a budget
Perhaps a topic titled magpies on a wire would do
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Thursday 22 November 20:36
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