Discussion
Help please
As you will have noted by my posts I have a new TVR which has work to be done
The throttle cable issue continues but that is another thraed
Mechanically the car is good the chassis good nick.
The body work will need work but it is acceptable.
However the doors are causing some difficulty, ie there is no rubber between the windows and the door body. the door handles are different one black on silver, from different cars?
The bit that has me concerned is that the passenger door seems to bow out significantly over an inch.
Can this be corrected if so how?
Thanks in advance.
As you will have noted by my posts I have a new TVR which has work to be done
The throttle cable issue continues but that is another thraed
Mechanically the car is good the chassis good nick.
The body work will need work but it is acceptable.
However the doors are causing some difficulty, ie there is no rubber between the windows and the door body. the door handles are different one black on silver, from different cars?
The bit that has me concerned is that the passenger door seems to bow out significantly over an inch.
Can this be corrected if so how?
Thanks in advance.
Maybe it's had a door replaced? There are several moulds for the major body panels which are not quite identical so perhaps it's just inherently a bad fit, but may have failed / been damaged/bodge repaired and distorted. To fix it would need to either strip and repair the existing door or supply a new one. It's not particularly cheap but definitely possible - just the same as if you'd had crash damage.
Thanks
Finding lots of issues particularly as it just rained when bringing back from the garage and have a wet crotch.
From the rain not from fear!
The bloody roof has nothing for the catches to grip on to, looks like the roof is sitting their by pressure alone.
Keep chanting good mechanically! good mechanically?
Finding lots of issues particularly as it just rained when bringing back from the garage and have a wet crotch.
From the rain not from fear!
The bloody roof has nothing for the catches to grip on to, looks like the roof is sitting their by pressure alone.
Keep chanting good mechanically! good mechanically?
Tvrs19882004 said:
The bloody roof has nothing for the catches to grip on to, looks like the roof is sitting their by pressure alone.
As long as the front and rear fitting tabs are secure on both panels and the rear stays are adjusted to clamp the panel tightly, the panels can't come out; the latches are there mainly to hold the panels in situ while the roof is being raised/lowered.GreenV8S said:
...the latches are there mainly to hold the panels in situ while the roof is being raised/lowered.
Pete, I wouldn't advise doing that, you are likely to stress the windscreen frame around the nylon tab sockets. The safety latches were fitted to stop targa panels ( mainly the RH one ) from flying off at speed or as a result of body flex over bumps.
It has been known to happen.
As for the bowing of the door, I think the OP means the excess clearance between the door outer skin along the top and the door glass, allowing rainwater to pour straight into the door void. This seems to be quite common on S1s, especially on the passenger door. You could perhaps glue a flat rubber extrusion along the door top to abut the glass and if desired, finish it with a nice chrome strip.
Or do what I did and make sure the door drain holes are clear!
The other area of factory dodgy fit that Alan referred to is the bottom corner of the driver's door protruding by a finger thickness from the contours of the body tub. My early S1 has this, I think it depended on which mould was used to make the door. It is NOT due to accident damage or distortion, just poor matching of particular door moulds to particular body tub moulds at the factory.
Phillpot did a very neat job on his by removing a long slice of fibreglass, tapering from about 10mm at the corner down to nothing at each end, then closing up the gap, temporarily clamping in place, and re-glassing the door skin back to make a nice fit. The reworking is all concealed in the closing section of the door, so minimal painting is needed afterwards. Job jobbed.
Wet crotch is unusual, it's usually the ankles and the right leg that get wet ( Known as 'S Leg'). And your hair if the roof is where it should be. !)
Welcome to the wonderful world of S.
Edited by glenrobbo on Saturday 1st April 16:29
Oh yes having fun!
My hair is dry, however that was back in the 80's and I have not seen it since.
My wife will appreciate a dry do!
I will get catches for the roof, belt and braces, any idea were I can source some?
The door may be a winter job I can do some stuff better with a scalpel really, so have a great guy who helps on these matters, smaller stuff I can do.
My hair is dry, however that was back in the 80's and I have not seen it since.
My wife will appreciate a dry do!
I will get catches for the roof, belt and braces, any idea were I can source some?
The door may be a winter job I can do some stuff better with a scalpel really, so have a great guy who helps on these matters, smaller stuff I can do.
Have a look on 'Useful Links' at the top of the S Series topics list. Another good source of info is available by clicking on 'FAQs' in the top left margin.
Also have a read of this thread and the earlier one it links to:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=146...
I believe the original Southco catches are still available.
Door handles were sourced from Capri III, possibly Cortina Mk 4 and the big square Granada. TVR sourced later ones from the Ford supplier and had the TVR logo cast into them before chrome plating. Black ones were not factory fitted.
Good luck
Also have a read of this thread and the earlier one it links to:
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=146...
I believe the original Southco catches are still available.
Door handles were sourced from Capri III, possibly Cortina Mk 4 and the big square Granada. TVR sourced later ones from the Ford supplier and had the TVR logo cast into them before chrome plating. Black ones were not factory fitted.
Good luck
glenrobbo said:
Pete, I wouldn't advise doing that, you are likely to stress the windscreen frame around the nylon tab sockets. I view the roof clips as an extra layer of insurance against the roof panels coming out on the road, but not essential if the rear stays are adjusted correctly.
Everything is very solid roof wise; it was the leaks from the area around the clips that got my attention.
One has no gripper to attach the clip too and other has a handy self tapping wood screw.
So flapping in the wind on one side and making a hole in the other.
A combination of bodge and ignore.
It looks untidy, so if I replace at least it is original for the model and covers up the holes. Never know with a new seal may reduce leaks!
One has no gripper to attach the clip too and other has a handy self tapping wood screw.
So flapping in the wind on one side and making a hole in the other.
A combination of bodge and ignore.
It looks untidy, so if I replace at least it is original for the model and covers up the holes. Never know with a new seal may reduce leaks!
Tvrs19882004 said:
However the doors are causing some difficulty, ie there is no rubber between the windows and the door body. the door handles are different one black on silver, from different cars?
The bit that has me concerned is that the passenger door seems to bow out significantly over an inch.
Can this be corrected if so how?
the rubber trim on the door top to glass should be something like IRS 1656 EP J from Pheonix trim. Don't expect it to be a good fit to the glass and wipe the window as it up and down! The bit that has me concerned is that the passenger door seems to bow out significantly over an inch.
Can this be corrected if so how?
Water goes in there and runs out of the big holes you should have in the bottom of the door.
Exterior door handles are Ford (Capri, Escort and possibly others), available in chrome or satin black. TVR as far as I know only used the chrome and later had these handles made for them with "TVR" embossed on them.
Where is the "bowing", along the door top?
Had a similar issue with my Taimar, rectified (at least greatly improved) by taking doors off, stripping out and clamping a piece of 15mm copper pipe inside along near the top edge then bonding it to the door with fibre glass. Not a "five minute fix" but did the job
It is an S1. On the early cars the roof 'catches' were an afterthought and just screwed on. The mouldings werent altered. They do not align correctly because the windscreen moulding isnt at the right angle, and they screw into wafer thin g.r.p. on the targa panels. They are a complete waste of time! (Says a mechanical Engineer!) Remove them and tidy up the mess!. On the later cars the screen moulding is modified and the targa has a reinforced patch...at least the angles/strength is there but I still think they are more likely to put a hole in your head than do anything useful.
What is FAR more important is that the Targa 'tangs' ,that fit into the recesses in screen rail and hood, are sound and the two stays are tight. And on the S1 they really do have to be tight, the slight mods to later roof mouldings do give a slightly better location. Those tangs are plastic covered steel inserts and are often rotten. If they are swollen by rust they will damage the screen rail or hood. If they are crumbly they wont hold the targa properly.
On an S1 do NOT use those clips to try to hold the panels in when fitting/removing the roof! They are fastened to practically nothing. They can very easily just rip out.
On the S1, but I believe not on later cars, there is an issue with the targa g.r.p. mouldings on the front outer corners. TVR found they didnt quite match the screen contour and ground a bit off the g.r.p. before covering the panel. That corner gets ragged and lets water get inside the Targa panel and, amazingly, it finds its way out on the opposite corner, i.e. in the middle of the car over the back of the transmission tunnel! The fit of the top (strong) and bottom (weak) mouldings of the Targa panel isnt brilliant, especially where the Targa tangs are fitted and there were several small gaps on mine.
The roof cover and headlining cover some pretty dubious g.r.p. work!!
If you ever decide to get the hood recovered, strip it yourself and sort the g.r.p. and targa tangs first!!
If you have an S2, just think yourself lucky TVR did learn on the S1's!!! Every S1 has to be seen as a development car!!
What is FAR more important is that the Targa 'tangs' ,that fit into the recesses in screen rail and hood, are sound and the two stays are tight. And on the S1 they really do have to be tight, the slight mods to later roof mouldings do give a slightly better location. Those tangs are plastic covered steel inserts and are often rotten. If they are swollen by rust they will damage the screen rail or hood. If they are crumbly they wont hold the targa properly.
On an S1 do NOT use those clips to try to hold the panels in when fitting/removing the roof! They are fastened to practically nothing. They can very easily just rip out.
On the S1, but I believe not on later cars, there is an issue with the targa g.r.p. mouldings on the front outer corners. TVR found they didnt quite match the screen contour and ground a bit off the g.r.p. before covering the panel. That corner gets ragged and lets water get inside the Targa panel and, amazingly, it finds its way out on the opposite corner, i.e. in the middle of the car over the back of the transmission tunnel! The fit of the top (strong) and bottom (weak) mouldings of the Targa panel isnt brilliant, especially where the Targa tangs are fitted and there were several small gaps on mine.
The roof cover and headlining cover some pretty dubious g.r.p. work!!
If you ever decide to get the hood recovered, strip it yourself and sort the g.r.p. and targa tangs first!!
If you have an S2, just think yourself lucky TVR did learn on the S1's!!! Every S1 has to be seen as a development car!!
You are missing the outer seal that fits to the painted top edge of the door with the lip rubbing against the glass.
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/car-parts/body-tri...
Very difficult to do as the factory used superglue to bond it to the paintwork.
Steve
http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/car-parts/body-tri...
Very difficult to do as the factory used superglue to bond it to the paintwork.
Steve
Tvrs19882004 said:
Hi See the bowing and gap
I will be posting separately requests for advice on window fitting perishables, to assist in future searches.
Again thanks for all the advice and help, really want o get this Car as good as I can.
The section comes from Phoenix Trim, http://www.phoenixtrim.co.uk profile number IRS 1656 EP JI will be posting separately requests for advice on window fitting perishables, to assist in future searches.
Again thanks for all the advice and help, really want o get this Car as good as I can.
I spoke to Kaye,
PHOENIX SUPPLIES - Trims Seals & Rubber Extrusions
Unit C1a Langlands Business Park, Uffculme, CULLOMPTON, Devon EX15 3DA
Tel 01884 849294 Fax 01884 849295 Mob 07795 660194
kaye@phoenixtrim.co.uk
Hi Stephen, the last picture you posted, showing the glass from behind, suggests a completely different issue. The aluminium frame is fixed to the door in such a way that it can be displaced if it is at all loose. And if it comes loose at any time it is likely to enlarge some of the fixing holes. Take off the inner panel and investigate the mountings for the alloy. Check to see if the one at the very bottom of the door is actually missing for a start. It seems to me that the entire frame is out of place. No point replacing the seal if the frame is out of place, conversely if the frame is out of place maybe that let the seal drop out?
Getting the entire frame out is tricky but not particularly technical, the issue is to get the mechanical operation cables out OK.
If the frame is completely out of place it is actually possible for the glass to come out of the end of the runner and either jam or wobble a bit. Clean the runners and glass and use a little candle wax on the runners before adjusting them to fit properly.
Getting the entire frame out is tricky but not particularly technical, the issue is to get the mechanical operation cables out OK.
If the frame is completely out of place it is actually possible for the glass to come out of the end of the runner and either jam or wobble a bit. Clean the runners and glass and use a little candle wax on the runners before adjusting them to fit properly.
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