TVR S1 stalling at idle when warm
Discussion
Hi people!
I have a stalling problem with my s1 at the moment. Once the car is warm and being driven, it has a tendency to stall or want to stall as soon as the clutch is down at junctions, traffic lights etc etc which is very annoying! It will start back up no problems so was wondering if there is anything that can be checked before i take it into a garage to have a look at.
It has just had a full service and the stalling issue was there before the service too. I mentioned it to the garage and they suggested to get the service done first to see if that helps, and if not bring it back in for them to look at. However with it being Easter they are obviously closed until Tuesday and i wanted to play this weekend
Any suggestions are much appreciated!
Thanks in advance
I have a stalling problem with my s1 at the moment. Once the car is warm and being driven, it has a tendency to stall or want to stall as soon as the clutch is down at junctions, traffic lights etc etc which is very annoying! It will start back up no problems so was wondering if there is anything that can be checked before i take it into a garage to have a look at.
It has just had a full service and the stalling issue was there before the service too. I mentioned it to the garage and they suggested to get the service done first to see if that helps, and if not bring it back in for them to look at. However with it being Easter they are obviously closed until Tuesday and i wanted to play this weekend
Any suggestions are much appreciated!
Thanks in advance
Cant be sure from the photo but was the hole a split in the 'rubber' air control valve or in the pipe from there to the throttle? That rubber fitting is now very hard to get hold of so look after it! The most likely place to split is actually underneath where the pipe causes flex near the joint. Check to see if it is cracking there and use some very good silicone under there. Also take care of the collar which changes the diameter of pipe,that is also hard to get and needs looking after. If you see one of these air control valve covers in decent condition, just buy it!
Another point you MUST look at on the S1 air inlet system. Take off the filter and have a careful look in the back of the rear of the airbox. There should be a plate held on by 4 rivets. Use a torch behind and see if you can see any light or if any rivets are loose of missing. They are very susceptible to corrosion and any air leak there will seriously effect the air control, both by effecting mixture and by allowing dust into that air control valve, worst still a rivet head can dislodge and be drawn in and scratch the super delicate air control valve.
Another point you MUST look at on the S1 air inlet system. Take off the filter and have a careful look in the back of the rear of the airbox. There should be a plate held on by 4 rivets. Use a torch behind and see if you can see any light or if any rivets are loose of missing. They are very susceptible to corrosion and any air leak there will seriously effect the air control, both by effecting mixture and by allowing dust into that air control valve, worst still a rivet head can dislodge and be drawn in and scratch the super delicate air control valve.
xstoka said:
Kitchski said:
Sticky bypass valve, incorrect base idle settings or a hole in the intake bellows are my guesses, but there are quite a few things that could cause that.
Thanks for the that, it turns out there was a split in the rubber intake as suggested, ive done a temporary fix with a bicycle puncture repair kit and some silicone and no stalling problems on a 30 minute drive so far.Much appreciated until i can get a replacement.
Someone's going to have to look into reproducing these, as it's a problem that's only going to get worse.
Kitchski said:
No worries. Good luck finding one though! It's from a Granada - the Sierra one is different and the Capri one looks the same, but is shorter. I've actually got a Capri one on mine, but normally they don't find straight on.
Someone's going to have to look into reproducing these, as it's a problem that's only going to get worse.
Maybe they can be 3D printed, although the cost of reproducing a few may be prohibitive? For a manufacturer to make a new injection moulded batch there would need to be a larger demand that currently exists, I imagine?Someone's going to have to look into reproducing these, as it's a problem that's only going to get worse.
yknot said:
Kitchski said:
No worries. Good luck finding one though! It's from a Granada - the Sierra one is different and the Capri one looks the same, but is shorter. I've actually got a Capri one on mine, but normally they don't find straight on.
Someone's going to have to look into reproducing these, as it's a problem that's only going to get worse.
Maybe they can be 3D printed, although the cost of reproducing a few may be prohibitive? For a manufacturer to make a new injection moulded batch there would need to be a larger demand that currently exists, I imagine?Someone's going to have to look into reproducing these, as it's a problem that's only going to get worse.
Apparently it is!
https://www.3d-alchemy.co.uk/3d-printing-in-rubber...
Although I would need convincing their product is heat resistant to TVR standards!!
https://www.3d-alchemy.co.uk/3d-printing-in-rubber...
Although I would need convincing their product is heat resistant to TVR standards!!
Edited by yknot on Tuesday 18th April 18:34
Edited by yknot on Tuesday 18th April 18:52
GreenV8S said:
Does it actually need to be flexible, given that it's connecting to a flexible intake hose?
There must be a reason Ford made them in rubber. Could just be ease/cost, or it's possible the casing on the intake unit might fracture without. That said, it's also mounted on rubber gromments.It's only a matter of time before I perfect Tig-welding aluminum and have to make one for mine, so I'll find out one day!
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