Check clutch slave cylinder

Check clutch slave cylinder

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Discussion

thomas.moeller

Original Poster:

97 posts

211 months

Sunday 23rd July 2017
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Hi,

I having problems with the clutch. I have renewed the master cylinder seals and bleeded the system but the clutch is still not working.


Is there a way you can test the slave cylinder without dismantling the car?


I have raed that it is a fiddling task to exchange the slave cylinder. Can it be done without removing the gearbox?

pmessling

2,284 posts

202 months

Sunday 23rd July 2017
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Check th bottom of the bell housing for clutch fluid. There is a little hole at the bottom. Other than that you could remove the starter motor and use an endoscope to have a look at the slave.

Other than that bellhousing and gear box need to come away from the engine.

gruffalo

7,509 posts

225 months

Monday 24th July 2017
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In addition to the above, if you are not losing fluid it could well be broken fingers on the clutch not allowing it to disengage.


ukkid35

6,137 posts

172 months

Monday 24th July 2017
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I've tried replacing the seals on a standard slave - that didn't work for very long.

You're best bet is to fit a RaceProved slave - costly, but worth every penny in my opinion

You MUST replace the Spigot Bearing (clutch pilot bearing), they only cost £6, but if it fails it will cause ££££ worth of damage






thomas.moeller

Original Poster:

97 posts

211 months

Tuesday 25th July 2017
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Thanks a lot for the feedback.

Where can I buy the spigot bearing?

Jhonno

5,762 posts

140 months

Tuesday 25th July 2017
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thomas.moeller said:
Thanks a lot for the feedback.

Where can I buy the spigot bearing?
TVR Parts

ukkid35

6,137 posts

172 months

Tuesday 25th July 2017
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Jhonno said:
TVR Parts
Or to avoid TVR Tax

http://www.burtonpower.com/crank-spigot-bearing-21...

I had fun trying to remove the old one, but mine had grenaded. If it is intact it should be easier to extricate.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

esso

1,849 posts

216 months

Tuesday 25th July 2017
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There is no issue fitting a standard slave cylinder providing its fitted correctly. Make sure first you have the correct one,the piston lengths are different between cars by 5m/m,make sure you polish all the surfaces removing burrs and sharp edges,fit the seals with red rubber grease and do not pinch them when fitting.Also make sure you line up the two small holes correctly or you will not be able to bleed the clutch.

fatjon

2,142 posts

212 months

Wednesday 26th July 2017
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I have fitted more raceproved slaves than I care to think about. None lasted even as long as the original slave. I think I can iron out any other parts killing them as the box, spigot, complete clutch (several) and flywheel have all been changed over the years.

I went back to the OE slave a year ago and all is now well. No loss of fluid and all working perfectly.

Wolvesboy

597 posts

140 months

Wednesday 26th July 2017
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I had the same experience as UKKID with the seals not lasting more than 2 weeks. The race proved item has lasted since without any leaks at all.
Very gently clean all mating surfaces to ensure the cylinders glide back in. I made sure that I used plenty of red rubber grease and that I slid the cylinders in gently and as 'square' as possible to avoid any Knicks in the rubber. Definitely line the holes up as stated before also.
Do NOT move the clutch plates either until the gearbox is back in. Aligning them can be tough too as the clutch has a double plate that makes the stupidly short TVR alignment (plastic) tool seem totally inadequate! Only bleed the hydraulics once the gearbox is back in.
That was the easy part! I found getting the gearbox back in (both times) a real pita. My exhaust got totally in the way. I had to remove the bell housing to first get the g/box out and then do this the other way around up refitting. The g/box would not go in the last 40/50 mm. I finally found that twisting the gearbox slightly and then lifting the shaft end up whilst pushing the gearbox got it in. After the first round of seals failed I was not happy having to do this all over again. DIY, on your back on a garage floor is not fun at all.
Good luck with that one. Take your time and have plenty of cups of tea!

gruffalo

7,509 posts

225 months

Wednesday 26th July 2017
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Did you reassemble the cylinder in the correct way, so the seals did not pass the holes for the fluid, I did it wrong once and was told the correct way since then I get years from a set of seal with them normally lasting a full clutch so change the two together now.

aide

2,276 posts

163 months

Wednesday 26th July 2017
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I fitted a tilton slave.

FarmyardPants

4,099 posts

217 months

Thursday 27th July 2017
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aide said:
I fitted a tilton slave.
Yea how are you tilton guys getting on, any downsides?

Wolvesboy

597 posts

140 months

Thursday 27th July 2017
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Hi Gruffalo,
Yes I did assemble the seals/ parts the correct way - I took my unit to Bespoke TVR and the mechanics there stated all was good and that it was the rubbish quality seals that were the problem. They even stated that they had the same problems with units they had worked on, finding the new seals were of such poor quality they were being replaced after a couple of weeks use. It was causing them no end of issues and the Raceproved units seemed to be the solution.

Jhonno

5,762 posts

140 months

Thursday 27th July 2017
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Another failed standard slave here, with a Raceproved replacement going strong.

CerbWill

670 posts

117 months

Thursday 27th July 2017
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FarmyardPants said:
aide said:
I fitted a tilton slave.
Yea how are you tilton guys getting on, any downsides?
Mines still going fine (that'll jinx it), nearly 2 years and probably 8-10k miles on. It makes gearbox removal more difficult as the clutch housing needs to come off with the gearbox but I can do it all under the car with a trolley jack an axle stands in my garage so its perfectly doable, just a bit more disassembly.

Byker28i

58,795 posts

216 months

Thursday 27th July 2017
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FarmyardPants said:
aide said:
I fitted a tilton slave.
Yea how are you tilton guys getting on, any downsides?
Mines still going ok

ukkid35

6,137 posts

172 months

Thursday 27th July 2017
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Jhonno said:
Another failed standard slave here, with a Raceproved replacement going strong.
In all fairness the original slave on my car lasted for 30k miles with no evidence that it had ever been touched.

However, I found the quality and fit of replacement seals was quite variable (I got through two sets).

The RP unit has had the benefit of being fitted to a decat car, but otherwise I'm confident that it has had a harder life than the original.

I do flush the fluid regularly, and fortunately no signs of debris in the fluid.

Four years on and I'm very happy with it.

thomas.moeller

Original Poster:

97 posts

211 months

Thursday 27th July 2017
quotequote all
gruffalo said:
In addition to the above, if you are not losing fluid it could well be broken fingers on the clutch not allowing it to disengage.
It turned out to be two broken fingers (see photo)! !!!!

I guess I need a new clutch now. I note there are two versions the orginal and a cheaper race version (tvr parts).

Do anyone have any experience or recommendations which I should get ?

ukkid35

6,137 posts

172 months

Thursday 27th July 2017
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That design looks different to the current AP Clutch



Suggests you should be really careful about the slave, perhaps you have the older design (pre 1998?)