Dreaded door hinges
Discussion
Hi All,
I have decided that this year is the year I tackle the seized door hinges on the passenger door of my S3. It’s the last big job my car needs doing but it’s the one I have been avoiding for the past decade. However, I can no longer ignore it. The bolts are a corroded mess and it’s only a matter of time before the bolts rip the brass nut out of the body.
Any advice on how to get the bolts out without destroying the glass fibre around the nuts? Rather than trying to unscrew the bolts I’m thinking of using a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts to remove the door and then drilling the rest of the bolts out. I reckon there is just enough room to do the cutting without damaging the paint or bodywork. Anyone else tried this method? Any better ideas?
Ralph
I have decided that this year is the year I tackle the seized door hinges on the passenger door of my S3. It’s the last big job my car needs doing but it’s the one I have been avoiding for the past decade. However, I can no longer ignore it. The bolts are a corroded mess and it’s only a matter of time before the bolts rip the brass nut out of the body.
Any advice on how to get the bolts out without destroying the glass fibre around the nuts? Rather than trying to unscrew the bolts I’m thinking of using a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts to remove the door and then drilling the rest of the bolts out. I reckon there is just enough room to do the cutting without damaging the paint or bodywork. Anyone else tried this method? Any better ideas?
Ralph
Definitely seized?
Mine (the M10 main pivot bolts) were incredibly tight because they are tightened onto the end of the thread/shank of the bolt but did come out, with no damage, once loosened.
It's a case of "do I go for it, what's going to give first" !
Similarly the smaller, M8, bolts holding the hinge plate things into the doors despite looking bad all came out without ripping a single bobbin out.......... others may not have been so lucky
I guess you've found Normans excellent drawing? But for anyone who hasn't.........
And the real thing........
Mine (the M10 main pivot bolts) were incredibly tight because they are tightened onto the end of the thread/shank of the bolt but did come out, with no damage, once loosened.
It's a case of "do I go for it, what's going to give first" !
Similarly the smaller, M8, bolts holding the hinge plate things into the doors despite looking bad all came out without ripping a single bobbin out.......... others may not have been so lucky
I guess you've found Normans excellent drawing? But for anyone who hasn't.........
And the real thing........
Ralph S3 said:
Hi All,
Any advice on how to get the bolts out without destroying the glass fibre around the nuts? Rather than trying to unscrew the bolts I’m thinking of using a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts to remove the door and then drilling the rest of the bolts out. I reckon there is just enough room to do the cutting without damaging the paint or bodywork. Anyone else tried this method? Any better ideas?
Ralph
That's exactly how I did my drivers door, a wooden wedge under the door helps and then it was easy to saw through the bolt. Repeat for the top and remove the door. I then filed the bolt shanks flat and centre popped them, then pilot drilled before final drilling to the tapping size and cleaning up the threads with a tap. The bobbins remained firmly glassed in. Any advice on how to get the bolts out without destroying the glass fibre around the nuts? Rather than trying to unscrew the bolts I’m thinking of using a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts to remove the door and then drilling the rest of the bolts out. I reckon there is just enough room to do the cutting without damaging the paint or bodywork. Anyone else tried this method? Any better ideas?
Ralph
Griffinr said:
Ralph S3 said:
Hi All,
Any advice on how to get the bolts out without destroying the glass fibre around the nuts? Rather than trying to unscrew the bolts I’m thinking of using a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts to remove the door and then drilling the rest of the bolts out. I reckon there is just enough room to do the cutting without damaging the paint or bodywork. Anyone else tried this method? Any better ideas?
Ralph
That's exactly how I did my drivers door, a wooden wedge under the door helps and then it was easy to saw through the bolt. Repeat for the top and remove the door. I then filed the bolt shanks flat and centre popped them, then pilot drilled before final drilling to the tapping size and cleaning up the threads with a tap. The bobbins remained firmly glassed in. Any advice on how to get the bolts out without destroying the glass fibre around the nuts? Rather than trying to unscrew the bolts I’m thinking of using a reciprocating saw to cut the bolts to remove the door and then drilling the rest of the bolts out. I reckon there is just enough room to do the cutting without damaging the paint or bodywork. Anyone else tried this method? Any better ideas?
Ralph
Anyone know where to buy the actual hinges? I can only find the nylon insert, but mine are so rusty i'd like to replace the whole thing,
cheers
Joe
JENGLAND said:
I plan to do the same, cut the bolt with a hacksaw blade (i dont have a reciprocating saw)
I recommend using a pad saw rather than a bare blade, and use a thin sheet above and below the blade to protect the bodywork. A bit of plastic cut from a carton/bottle would be sufficient as long as you're reasonably careful.JENGLAND said:
Anyone know where to buy the actual hinges? I can only find the nylon insert, but mine are so rusty i'd like to replace the whole thing,
cheers
Joe
I am not aware of these being available Joe, however they are pretty rudimentary. Unless they are badly damaged I would just get them stripped and repainted. One of mine had been left very loose and the holes had elongated so I just welded and redrilled them, and cleaned and painted them.cheers
Joe
I think you are wise to cut the bolt and then drill out the bit left, with care! Forcing the bolt and having the brass 'bobbin' come adrift is a hell of a lot more work. Incidentally, slacken off all you can to try and get a bit more clearance for the junior hacksaw blade, the less damage done the better.
Normans drawings above show exactly how they should be, check them against the drawings.
greymrj said:
One of mine had been left very loose and the holes had elongated
Is the S1 bracket a bit different Richard, those holes would take some elongating !
I agree though, down to the sandblasters then slap some paint on. with all the variances/tolerences in TVR's always best to refit originals rather than replace where feasible
phillpot said:
Is the S1 bracket a bit different Richard, those holes would take some elongating !
No Mike,.they are the same but I think someone had been trying to compensate for a loose top bobbin and on one bracket had filed out the two holes into ovals. 
Another had been left loose for so long that the washers had worn some of the bracket away! Wish I had taken pictures of them as they were, probably less rusty than yours but way more damaged.I did take pictures of the finished ones, you will see I now use stainless SHCS (70's will do but I used 80's!!)!
For all those thinking about cutting your door off, it can easily be done with a hacksaw like the one below, but i’d say not without damaging the paint, for me it’s not a problem as I’m respraying anyway, I will tackle drilling and tapping another day!
As you can see the hinge itself are very rusty, I’ll see if they Theres any life left in them.
As you can see the hinge itself are very rusty, I’ll see if they Theres any life left in them.
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