3 Year Rebuild - Complete!
Discussion
Absolutely spiffing first-class rescue job 8 young fellow!
Top marks go to you, Andrew, for your persistence and determination in getting that S back to such an amazing and pristine condition.
l'll just leave this here for you to savour...
https://youtu.be/YV8zGNe7Ebg
Even rougher than Stockport!
Top marks go to you, Andrew, for your persistence and determination in getting that S back to such an amazing and pristine condition.
l'll just leave this here for you to savour...
https://youtu.be/YV8zGNe7Ebg
Even rougher than Stockport!
LawrieS said:
Great work, love the interior!
Where’d you get the battery from and what size is it?
http://www.optimabatteries.co.uk/en/red-top/17-red...Where’d you get the battery from and what size is it?
Click the more info button and it's got all the dimensions etc.
Andrew
Update! 3 and 1/2 months since I got the car back on the road and I'm still really pleased! Done just over 1500 miles including a trip to Bruges, York, Leeds and lots of commutes through the Peak District taking the longer way to work 
. I've also managed to replace the window winders and sorted out my broken dip-stick. Car runs up to temp and the fan cuts in and the Evans Waterless Coolant seems to do the trick well, keeping the temp at 90 degrees once it's fully warmed up.
Having done this milage it does still need a bit of engine work. I've got an oil leak which I can't figure out if it's engine or gear box (or both). I've also still got a complete lack of power very low down the rev range and I need to get some better locking washers for my rocker covers as the screws keep working loose, leaking oil onto the manifold....
I'm going to try and get it on a rolling road in Feb/March to sort out - plan to contact X Works soon but can't remember if they have one. If anyone can recommend a garage with a rolling road that they'd recommend as someone who knows their way around the 2.9 V6 cologne engine please let me know - I know a few have used various places for the more common rover V8 but keen to have someone that knowns what they're doing with the ford engine. I'm in Manchester so looking for somewhere I can get to within a couple of hours.
I'm also on the look out for a drivers side wheel arch - the part that fits to the body (as oppose to the bonnet). Mine was missing when I bought the car and I got a piece of Norman a few years ago. It doesn't really fit properly and there is a big gap to the piece that fits to the bonnet so it's letting loads of cr*p into the engine bay, which means lots more cleaning than I would like and the spray is going directly on to the servo...
All in all still very happy. Also using it for work this last couple of weeks as the CRX has an ignition problem which is proving tricky to fix!
Andrew
. I've also managed to replace the window winders and sorted out my broken dip-stick. Car runs up to temp and the fan cuts in and the Evans Waterless Coolant seems to do the trick well, keeping the temp at 90 degrees once it's fully warmed up.Having done this milage it does still need a bit of engine work. I've got an oil leak which I can't figure out if it's engine or gear box (or both). I've also still got a complete lack of power very low down the rev range and I need to get some better locking washers for my rocker covers as the screws keep working loose, leaking oil onto the manifold....
I'm going to try and get it on a rolling road in Feb/March to sort out - plan to contact X Works soon but can't remember if they have one. If anyone can recommend a garage with a rolling road that they'd recommend as someone who knows their way around the 2.9 V6 cologne engine please let me know - I know a few have used various places for the more common rover V8 but keen to have someone that knowns what they're doing with the ford engine. I'm in Manchester so looking for somewhere I can get to within a couple of hours.
I'm also on the look out for a drivers side wheel arch - the part that fits to the body (as oppose to the bonnet). Mine was missing when I bought the car and I got a piece of Norman a few years ago. It doesn't really fit properly and there is a big gap to the piece that fits to the bonnet so it's letting loads of cr*p into the engine bay, which means lots more cleaning than I would like and the spray is going directly on to the servo...
All in all still very happy. Also using it for work this last couple of weeks as the CRX has an ignition problem which is proving tricky to fix!
Andrew
AndrewS2 said:
I've got an oil leak which I can't figure out if it's engine or gear box (or both).
Have you checked the area around the distributor? Mine was leaking oil from the back of the engine which was then running down the bellhousing and off the gearbox onto the exhaust. Like you, I wasn’t sure where it was coming from and eventually traced it to the o-ring on the distributor shaft.Always worth a look as it’s a really cheap fix!
Your car looks great, by the way.
Enjoy it!
Andy
Very nice
Take a close look at the alternator wiring, you will see there is a yellow crush-on connector at the battery positive terminal, that crush-on connector is going to overheat and either destroy the rectifier inside the alternator, burn the positive post's insulation and short to earth or will disintegrate which will lead (excuse the pun) to the battery positive cable falling off and shorting to earth which could very easily cause a fire
If you have another crush-on connector like the one fitted, you will notice how easy it is to bend, it bends easy because it is made of thin lightweight material for DIYers to terminate low current circuits
You need to solder on one of these of the correct stud/cable size
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solder-Crimp-10-16mm-M8...
Take a close look at the alternator wiring, you will see there is a yellow crush-on connector at the battery positive terminal, that crush-on connector is going to overheat and either destroy the rectifier inside the alternator, burn the positive post's insulation and short to earth or will disintegrate which will lead (excuse the pun) to the battery positive cable falling off and shorting to earth which could very easily cause a fire
If you have another crush-on connector like the one fitted, you will notice how easy it is to bend, it bends easy because it is made of thin lightweight material for DIYers to terminate low current circuits
You need to solder on one of these of the correct stud/cable size
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Solder-Crimp-10-16mm-M8...
Penelope Stopit said:
Take a close look at the alternator wiring, you will see there is a yellow crush-on connector at the battery positive terminal, that crush-on connector is going to overheat and either destroy the rectifier inside the alternator, burn the positive post's insulation and short to earth or will disintegrate which will lead (excuse the pun) to the battery positive cable falling off and shorting to earth which could very easily cause a fire
Penny, could you put some kind of time scale on this impending catastrophe, how long have I got to get this sorted? 
Companies Like RS Components are not focused on the DIY market but do sell a vast range of crimp terminals, red, blue, yellow........
The old "crimp or solder" discussion rears it head every so often. personally I'm a "crimper". Fitted literally hundreds of terminals like the ones you've pictured over the years all be it on mains 415 volt and lots of Amps with my trusty crimpers...........
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