Powder coated chassis protection
Discussion
Was the chassis 'hot zinc' sprayed prior to powder coating?
What are you wanting to acheive? To have a 'self healing' effect to cover chips and damage? To stop chips and damage? Not sure there is any wonder product. My leanings would be towards a protective application like ACF-50 that can be sprayed on and renewed.
You could splash out on numerous coats of ceramic 'wax' that is all the rage in detailing circles.
Whilst I had some parts galvanised, next time around I'm going to go triple passivating prior to paint.
What are you wanting to acheive? To have a 'self healing' effect to cover chips and damage? To stop chips and damage? Not sure there is any wonder product. My leanings would be towards a protective application like ACF-50 that can be sprayed on and renewed.
You could splash out on numerous coats of ceramic 'wax' that is all the rage in detailing circles.
Whilst I had some parts galvanised, next time around I'm going to go triple passivating prior to paint.
What about self-amalgamating tape ? You'd need to watch the clearance between the chassis and the body in some areas.
mk1fan said:
Was the chassis 'hot zinc' sprayed prior to powder coating?
What are you wanting to acheive? To have a 'self healing' effect to cover chips and damage? To stop chips and damage? Not sure there is any wonder product. My leanings would be towards a protective application like ACF-50 that can be sprayed on and renewed.
You could splash out on numerous coats of ceramic 'wax' that is all the rage in detailing circles.
Whilst I had some parts galvanised, next time around I'm going to go triple passivating prior to paint.
Interesting - such a big decision!What are you wanting to acheive? To have a 'self healing' effect to cover chips and damage? To stop chips and damage? Not sure there is any wonder product. My leanings would be towards a protective application like ACF-50 that can be sprayed on and renewed.
You could splash out on numerous coats of ceramic 'wax' that is all the rage in detailing circles.
Whilst I had some parts galvanised, next time around I'm going to go triple passivating prior to paint.
v8s4me said:
What about self-amalgamating tape ? You'd need to watch the clearance between the chassis and the body in some areas.
Have used that on the mtbs for a few years. Pretty good but does go eventually in 'high stress' areas like the chain stays. Used to last about two weeks of Alps riding in those areas.'Helicopter tape' is another one to consider.
If the hidden areas you’re refering to means the top edges of the web plates where they meet the outriggers does it matter if it’s pretty? Denso tape is favourite but if that’s too grim
you wouldn’t go far wrong with silicone grease, won’t let water anywhere near it and wouldn’t cause an unsightly mess. No good for exposed areas though, it wouldn’t stay put.
you wouldn’t go far wrong with silicone grease, won’t let water anywhere near it and wouldn’t cause an unsightly mess. No good for exposed areas though, it wouldn’t stay put.
Densotape is just a hessian cloth impregnated with a thick grease, its used a lot in the oil industry and will protect against seawater spray for 20 years plus, but you would certainly struggle to wrap the inaccessible areas and it would look as ugly as sin. Alan 461.s idea is first class as any grease will keep the air & water out
The previous owner of my car told me he always kept the chassis sprayed with sump oil, it certainly preserved it wonderfully but was horribly messy. It didn’t bother him as he had the car on stands most of the time and only ran the engine and went through the gears once a month, and to and from the MOT garage once a year, while he waited for a hip transplant.
When I bought it I had it steam cleaned to get the oil off, allowed it to dry for a few weeks in the summer, and then sprayed into every nook and cranny a couple of times with clear waxoil (diluted with white spirit so that it would creep into any holidays, and under any faulty coating by capillary action. Hopefully to prevent water getting under the powder coat). I have repeated this every couple of years and there doesn’t appear to be any rust so far. (I do less than 1k a year and the car only gets out of the garage when the sun shines so its not really a fair test; and I am lucky, or unlucky, that mine was powder coated in black from new so the waxoils don’t show.)
I don’t have a high opinion of the black waxoil underseal, it goes hard over time and cracks and flakes, but it is abrasion resistant so might be a good idea on the underside of the outriggers where the gravel from the wheels hits.
The previous owner of my car told me he always kept the chassis sprayed with sump oil, it certainly preserved it wonderfully but was horribly messy. It didn’t bother him as he had the car on stands most of the time and only ran the engine and went through the gears once a month, and to and from the MOT garage once a year, while he waited for a hip transplant.
When I bought it I had it steam cleaned to get the oil off, allowed it to dry for a few weeks in the summer, and then sprayed into every nook and cranny a couple of times with clear waxoil (diluted with white spirit so that it would creep into any holidays, and under any faulty coating by capillary action. Hopefully to prevent water getting under the powder coat). I have repeated this every couple of years and there doesn’t appear to be any rust so far. (I do less than 1k a year and the car only gets out of the garage when the sun shines so its not really a fair test; and I am lucky, or unlucky, that mine was powder coated in black from new so the waxoils don’t show.)
I don’t have a high opinion of the black waxoil underseal, it goes hard over time and cracks and flakes, but it is abrasion resistant so might be a good idea on the underside of the outriggers where the gravel from the wheels hits.
When my chassis comes back I am planning on coating it with Tectyl 506.
It wont look as pretty as the shiny powder coating, but who will see it other than me and the MOT man?
In fact, I am particularly keen on putting the tectyl over the top of the outriggers and other chassis bids which will then be hard to get at with the body on.
This will be the last job before putting the body back onto the (then) rolling chassis, and if I am doing the bits that will be inaccessible once the body is on, I may as well do the whole chassis.
A few friends have said that it is not required and the bare powder coated chassis will look much nicer. Maybe, but a thick coat of wax which will both keep water away and help protect from stone chips cannot be a bad thing. Once the body is back on it will be impossible to get to the critical bits of chassis.
It wont look as pretty as the shiny powder coating, but who will see it other than me and the MOT man?
In fact, I am particularly keen on putting the tectyl over the top of the outriggers and other chassis bids which will then be hard to get at with the body on.
This will be the last job before putting the body back onto the (then) rolling chassis, and if I am doing the bits that will be inaccessible once the body is on, I may as well do the whole chassis.
A few friends have said that it is not required and the bare powder coated chassis will look much nicer. Maybe, but a thick coat of wax which will both keep water away and help protect from stone chips cannot be a bad thing. Once the body is back on it will be impossible to get to the critical bits of chassis.
This is what I use to protect my underparts. . .
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&a...
( I had some left over from a previous contract.
)
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&a...
( I had some left over from a previous contract.
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