Radiator removal
Discussion
I’ve got a very small weep from one of the cores in the radiator and so looking to get it sorted before the Spring.
Will I need to remove the bonnet to get the radiator out, or is this achievable without the need for the bonnet coming off?
I’ve got access to a two post lift if it can be accessed and removed from beneath. I’m just trying to work out how big a job this is.
Cheers
Andy
Will I need to remove the bonnet to get the radiator out, or is this achievable without the need for the bonnet coming off?
I’ve got access to a two post lift if it can be accessed and removed from beneath. I’m just trying to work out how big a job this is.
Cheers
Andy
I've seen a couple of different arrangements for the radiator top mounts and fans but the most common one seems to be with the fan in front (upstream) of the rad. With this arrangement the radiator comes out quite easily and could probably be done with the bonnet in situ. You will find access *much* easier if you remove the front indicator lenses and pick the front of the car up about four inches so the bonnet can open vertically, resting on some carpets you put between the bonnet and the ground. (If you don't remove the indicators this will break them, and the originals are no longer available.)
Once you have the bonnet vertical it can be removed and refitted very quickly once you have the knack, although it can be a little intimidating the first time. For goodness sake remove the indicator lenses first, though.
Once you have the bonnet vertical it can be removed and refitted very quickly once you have the knack, although it can be a little intimidating the first time. For goodness sake remove the indicator lenses first, though.
I can get mine out with the bonnet on but open. Bit of a faff getting to the mountings to get them off with the rad but not that bad. If you have access to a ramp then you can open the bonnet further than the stay but you need to be careful it cant go too far or fall back on you! While you have the rad out make sure the mounting rubbers are still there! On mine I also found the rivets that hold the metal sides of the rad had broken loose at one end allowing the rad to move a little inside the frame. Not good! However a radiator specialist fixed it for £25. When I had it out I also back flushed it inside and power washed through the airways in the reverse direction, got more out than I expected.
Yep, can do it with bonnet on...open wider the better
Just the two hose clips (top and bottom) and the top two rad bolts...bottom ones on my S3C are just peg locators that you can pull out...
If your fan is attached to the rad then remember to disconnect...don’t think original ones were, but retrofit ones often bolt through.
...took my rad to local express radios and there local expert sorted it...found weep in cars, plus the main pipes ina and out needed re-braising
Just the two hose clips (top and bottom) and the top two rad bolts...bottom ones on my S3C are just peg locators that you can pull out...
If your fan is attached to the rad then remember to disconnect...don’t think original ones were, but retrofit ones often bolt through.
...took my rad to local express radios and there local expert sorted it...found weep in cars, plus the main pipes ina and out needed re-braising
GreenV8S said:
Were those delicate fins OK with the power washer? I haven't been brave enough to risk it on mine.
Fine so long as you keep jet "square on" to fins which is what you want you blast any crap out.we are talking hobby pessure washer, not some 2000psi industrial beastie
But if it does go wrong.......... clicky
GreenV8S said:
Were those delicate fins OK with the power washer? I haven't been brave enough to risk it on mine.
Yes, as Mike said, I am talking about my small Karcher , with reasonable care and not right up to the fins. I looked through the rad before and after...quite a difference! There were a few fins which were bent before washing and I carefully straightened them first.So much easier with the bonnet off, but it can be done in-situ. Thing is with the bonnet off, you can inspect lots of other bits, clean the chassis up, do a neater job etc. And removing the bonnet isn't hard - only two bolts, as you don't need to faff with the adjusters or anything.
Early cars had two individual 'blades' which clamps the radiator in place (and is therefore easier to remove). The fan is also fixed to the back of the rad in a big GRP cowling.
Later cars (V8S, S3 etc.) had one big three-sided mount, which would need removing. The radiator fan is fixed into it by two long studs that run left to right. I've always removed that first (because I'm normally stripping one down to down the chassis) but thinking about it, I see not reason why you couldn't leave it in place.
Early cars had two individual 'blades' which clamps the radiator in place (and is therefore easier to remove). The fan is also fixed to the back of the rad in a big GRP cowling.
Later cars (V8S, S3 etc.) had one big three-sided mount, which would need removing. The radiator fan is fixed into it by two long studs that run left to right. I've always removed that first (because I'm normally stripping one down to down the chassis) but thinking about it, I see not reason why you couldn't leave it in place.
Kitchski said:
So much easier with the bonnet off
Yes I suppose so but totally ott for slipping the rad out. Even without "wide open hinges" the bonnet will usually open a bit further with the front of the car jacked up a little or driven onto some blocks.Kitchski said:
Later cars (V8S, S3 etc.) had one big three-sided mount, which would need removing.
Frame or mount stays in place, two top bolts out and of course hoses off, rad will lean back and lift out..... literally a five minute job 
I found these a handy replacement for the grommets the bottom pins on the rad drop into ..... clicky
phillpot said:
Frame or mount stays in place, two top bolts out and of course hoses off, rad will lean back and lift out..... literally a five minute job
Ah, I see what you mean. It's weird, as in all the cars I've taken a rad out on, I'd never noticed that! Makes no difference as I was stripping them right down anyway, but it does make sense. That means the earlier cars are trickier, as they don't have a bolt at the top; they've got pegs top and bottom.
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