TVR S2 no spark imobilizer me thinks need bypass for second

[waynes2]

Help please anyone.

I have only just got my first TVR which is an S2 fitted with a GT imobilizer which I think is the cause of it not starting from cold, can anyone give me instructions on how to bypass second stage of this.

It will turn over when imobilizer is set but no spark, it played up before, that time disconnected bat and reconnected and it worked this time no luck at all.

Any help would be a god send

Wayne

[Barry S1]

I think I'd cut it out completely I have done that with my S2

[phillpot]

I don't think a "GT imobilizer" is factory original?

I would imagine it's a case of find the immobiliser and, if it's been fitted properly, untape the loom until you come to where the wires have been linked into the cars wiring loom.

There will possibly be something like:

Permanent live
Ignition switched live
Earth
2 wires interrupting the ignition circuit
2 wires interrupting the fuel pump circuit

Most likely all wires will be black to make life difficult for a bad guy trying to by-pass it.

[waynes2]

Barry and Philpot,

Thank you both for your replies, yes it is aftermarket and has been fitted well so will have a look into it and see where the leads go, I found the main box for it the other day with a nice load of spaghetti coming out of one end and yes Mr Philpot all black oh what fun.

So I can just trace them back to where they enter loom an just cut them off then?

And think I will book in with the osteopath now lol

[phillpot]

waynes2 said:

So I can just trace them back to where they enter loom an just cut them off then?

Er no, you have to re-join the original wires that have been cut and interrupted by the immobiliser.

[waynes2]

Cool, didn't think it would be that simple!

Will dig the soldering iron out then.

Thank you so much for your help, been a bit down about buying it both weather and hose gone and then this, just want to drive it, the joys of owning a classic hey

[Barry S1]

Mine had two wired to the ignition switch, two went to the coil and two went to petrol pump , just do one at a time it's not that bad when you get started

[waynes2]

Barry,

Thats not a bad idea as the fuel pump and start motor are working, so most likely the coil ones need disconnecting.

Thank you so much for your help, starting to see a way through this now.

[Barry S1]

I would do all of them not just the coil , they are just a problem you don't need .
Good luck

[Penelope Stopit]

Don't cut the immobiliser cables where they break into the vehicles cables, cut them in a place where they can be easily joined together.
Should you be fitting a new immobiliser in the future, then is the time to cut the old immobiliser wires where they break into the vehicles cables and wire in the new immobiliser at those locations

[waynes2]

Pen,

Great idea and thanks for the heads up.

Big thank you to you all and will update after I have had a go, at the great cable chase!

Wayne

[DamianS3]

waynes2 said:

Barry,

Thats not a bad idea as the fuel pump and start motor are working, so most likely the coil ones need disconnecting.

Thank you so much for your help, starting to see a way through this now.

Are you sure it's the immobiliser ? I assume you see no power to the coil LT side. ? .

couldn't you just run temp power to this to check before you attak the loom...?

Just my thoughts good luck

Damian S3

[GreenV8S]

In my experience the immobiliser wiring connections themselves can be problematic and I recommend you aim to completely remove the added wiring and splice the original wires back together. Both times I've done this on an S the splice was relatively accessible and there was enough slack to rejoin the original loom without any problem.

[waynes2]

Evening everyone,

Well immobiliser taken out not to bad a job to do, but alas still no spark, so I am now well and truly stumped.

[Barry S1]

And you've re connected everything

[waynes2]

Yep everything reconnected, must be something else.

Will check everything over again tomorrow when it stops raining.

[GreenV8S]

Forgive me if you already answered this, but do you have power to the coil LT +ve with ignition on and also while cranking?

[glenrobbo]

If you have a LT supply to the coil but no spark, ensure that the centre carbon electrode in the distributor cap has not broken off.

[DamianS3]

Hey how's it going? Don't want you to be down on your new purchase..

I am sure others can help more but this should be old school mechanics stuff..

Work back from the spark plug to dissy then coil then switch..

You don't still have a yellow connector under the steering wheel do you?

What can you see does ign light come on does fuel pump make noise etc how do you know it's the spark.

Forget everything and go back to basics imho

Sorry can't help more but don't have that engine anymore..

Good luck D

[Barry S1]

Yellow connector