Hello - and two questions
Discussion
I've just signed up so I'll start by saying hello everyone.
I am the proud if occasionally frustrated owner of an S1, registered Feb 1988 and the VIN indicates a 1987 car. It's in BRG with a pale tan interior, which is a combination I like. It went through several owners in its early years before I bought it in '95. Unrestored but with a number of the usual problems fixed over the years: overheating, outriggers, rear trailing arms, steering UJs etc.
It's been in my garage on a SORN over the winter, following a sudden and complete engine cut while driving to work last year. Mr. AA gave up after about 2 hours and Relayed me home. It's this that leads to the questions.
I replaced the dodgy fuel pump relay and soldered a broken wire to the fuel pump, and there is now fuel getting to the front again. I can hear the electric pump and smell fuel after turning the engine over.
But there appears to be something wrong in the ignition. I have Steve Heath's book, which seems to be the best documentation of the wiring, and am chasing down the fault from that. With the ignition switched on there's no voltage on the LV side of the coil, although there is at the tacho. The only component between them is the ballast resistor (and maybe the immobiliser but that appears OK). But I can't find that resistor, and I've looked for ages.
Q.1) Does anyone know where TVR hid the ballast resistor on an early S1?
Q.2) Any other suggestions for related parts known to be prone to failure?
thanks in advance
Simon
Cambridge
I am the proud if occasionally frustrated owner of an S1, registered Feb 1988 and the VIN indicates a 1987 car. It's in BRG with a pale tan interior, which is a combination I like. It went through several owners in its early years before I bought it in '95. Unrestored but with a number of the usual problems fixed over the years: overheating, outriggers, rear trailing arms, steering UJs etc.
It's been in my garage on a SORN over the winter, following a sudden and complete engine cut while driving to work last year. Mr. AA gave up after about 2 hours and Relayed me home. It's this that leads to the questions.
I replaced the dodgy fuel pump relay and soldered a broken wire to the fuel pump, and there is now fuel getting to the front again. I can hear the electric pump and smell fuel after turning the engine over.
But there appears to be something wrong in the ignition. I have Steve Heath's book, which seems to be the best documentation of the wiring, and am chasing down the fault from that. With the ignition switched on there's no voltage on the LV side of the coil, although there is at the tacho. The only component between them is the ballast resistor (and maybe the immobiliser but that appears OK). But I can't find that resistor, and I've looked for ages.
Q.1) Does anyone know where TVR hid the ballast resistor on an early S1?
Q.2) Any other suggestions for related parts known to be prone to failure?
thanks in advance
Simon
Cambridge
This may help you https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
or this https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
or this https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Friday 20th April 18:24
Hi Simon and welcome.
In the electrical system? Everything!
It will be quite a long list but the first place to start is the yellow connector under the ignition switch.
Others will be along shortly with more suggestions.
I hope you can get going soon and enjoy this perfect TVR weather
SimonS1 said:
.........Q.1) Does anyone know where TVR hid the ballast resistor on an early S1?
......
The ballast resistor could just be a coiled length of (possibly blue) wire tucked down somewhere near the coil. Maybe zip-tied to the chassis where the heat from the manifold can cook it?......
SimonS1 said:
.........Q.2) Any other suggestions for related parts known to be prone to failure?.......
In the electrical system? Everything!It will be quite a long list but the first place to start is the yellow connector under the ignition switch.
Others will be along shortly with more suggestions.
I hope you can get going soon and enjoy this perfect TVR weather
Hello Simon and welcome to the forum. I cannot help directly with your question, but I can advise that lurking in the background are a select group of S1 experts. Some of whom could be considered vintage, and no doubt they will very shortly be all over this like a rash. Just watch out for a certain highly dubious character using the call sign Glenrobbo .
SimonS1 said:
Q.1) Does anyone know where TVR hid the ballast resistor on an early S1?
Q.2) Any other suggestions for related parts known to be prone to failure?
Hi Simon. Nice choice - S1s are for winners.Q.2) Any other suggestions for related parts known to be prone to failure?
1) Normally stuffed down between the passenger footwell and the chassis, not far from the engine mount. That's if it's still got it, of course.
2) Yes. Lots!
v8s4me said:
Hi Simon and welcome.
In the electrical system? Everything!
It will be quite a long list but the first place to start is the yellow connector under the ignition switch.
Thank you - I'd crawled under the front and spotted the looped wire tie-wrapped to the chassis, I assumed it was just TVR's usual wiring standards. I'd not put 2+2 with the missing resistor.SimonS1 said:
.........Q.1) Does anyone know where TVR hid the ballast resistor on an early S1?
......
The ballast resistor could just be a coiled length of (possibly blue) wire tucked down somewhere near the coil. Maybe zip-tied to the chassis where the heat from the manifold can cook it?......
SimonS1 said:
.........Q.2) Any other suggestions for related parts known to be prone to failure?.......
In the electrical system? Everything!It will be quite a long list but the first place to start is the yellow connector under the ignition switch.
And thanks Penelope for the links. I looked through the forum posts before posting this but I'd not gone back to 2014.
Anyway, I now have sparks from a spare plug attached to a couple of the plug leads in turn. Don't know what was wrong previously but I guess finger trouble on my part. It's still not firing though. I'm aware it could still be electrical in view of the various sensors that the ECU uses.
Welcome to the team Simon...you won’t regret getting an S....
I would also suggest starting with the “yellow connector”....it is a ford item that overloads in the TVR and tends to stop the engine for no apparent reason...
...plus it is easy to check out....remove the steering cowling (by breaking through the leather and unscrewing the screws in top and bottom....then you wil see a yellow ( fancy that) connector. It may look ok,but pull it apart and inside there is a strong possibilty that you will see it has burnt the connections ...you will know when you see them....they all do that sir..
...then replace it, either by direct solder or chocolate box connectors, etc....
Btw where in the country are you.....green S’s are the best colour...
I would also suggest starting with the “yellow connector”....it is a ford item that overloads in the TVR and tends to stop the engine for no apparent reason...
...plus it is easy to check out....remove the steering cowling (by breaking through the leather and unscrewing the screws in top and bottom....then you wil see a yellow ( fancy that) connector. It may look ok,but pull it apart and inside there is a strong possibilty that you will see it has burnt the connections ...you will know when you see them....they all do that sir..
...then replace it, either by direct solder or chocolate box connectors, etc....
Btw where in the country are you.....green S’s are the best colour...
SimonS1 said:
Thank you - I'd crawled under the front and spotted the looped wire tie-wrapped to the chassis, I assumed it was just TVR's usual wiring standards. I'd not put 2+2 with the missing resistor.
And thanks Penelope for the links. I looked through the forum posts before posting this but I'd not gone back to 2014.
Anyway, I now have sparks from a spare plug attached to a couple of the plug leads in turn. Don't know what was wrong previously but I guess finger trouble on my part. It's still not firing though. I'm aware it could still be electrical in view of the various sensors that the ECU uses.
Hello Simon, once you have checked that there is a spark at each plug it will help (if you haven't already done this) if you disconnect the ignition coil supply cable and make it safe so it can't short out on anything, remove, dry and clean all the spark plugs and leave them out, remove the fuel pump fuse or its relay so as to stop the pump from working, now press the throttle down to the boards and crank the engine over for 15 seconds 4 times giving the starter a couple of minutes break in between each time to allow it to cool down a littleAnd thanks Penelope for the links. I looked through the forum posts before posting this but I'd not gone back to 2014.
Anyway, I now have sparks from a spare plug attached to a couple of the plug leads in turn. Don't know what was wrong previously but I guess finger trouble on my part. It's still not firing though. I'm aware it could still be electrical in view of the various sensors that the ECU uses.
The idea of the above being to clear neat petrol out of the cylinders if you have flooded it
"Just watch out for a certain highly dubious character using the call sign Glenrobbo".
Hi Dave, thanks for the ignominious intro! 
Welcome to the Joys of S, Simon.
So you are getting fuel through to the cylinders and a spark to the plugs?
Have you checked all of your fuses? * There is a15 10 amp one that feeds the instruments, indicators and alternator charge warning light. If that is blown, there is an ignition supply whilst the engive is cranking, but will not sustain when the key is released to the 'run' position.
Another possibility is a blown alternator warning lamp.
I had similar troubles on my very early S1, which kept blowing that fuse. I eventually traced it to a faulty cig lighter / 12v socket.
Not sure if your S will have the infamous "yellow connector" behind the steeying column shroud.
Mine didn't, I think it came in with the later S1s & S2s
* If you are working from the Steve Heath S Series "bible", be aware that the fuse layout diagrams are very misleading. The circuit idents appear to relate to the wrong fuses.
I have pencilled lines across the diagrams in my copy to avoid confusion.
Good luck, if you persevere, you'll get it sorted.
Just read though my old post that Penelope linked to: edited to alter the subject fuse from 15 to 10 amps.
Hi Dave, thanks for the ignominious intro! Welcome to the Joys of S, Simon.
So you are getting fuel through to the cylinders and a spark to the plugs?
Have you checked all of your fuses? * There is a
Another possibility is a blown alternator warning lamp.
I had similar troubles on my very early S1, which kept blowing that fuse. I eventually traced it to a faulty cig lighter / 12v socket.
Not sure if your S will have the infamous "yellow connector" behind the steeying column shroud.
Mine didn't, I think it came in with the later S1s & S2s
* If you are working from the Steve Heath S Series "bible", be aware that the fuse layout diagrams are very misleading. The circuit idents appear to relate to the wrong fuses.
I have pencilled lines across the diagrams in my copy to avoid confusion.
Good luck, if you persevere, you'll get it sorted.
Just read though my old post that Penelope linked to: edited to alter the subject fuse from 15 to 10 amps.
Edited by glenrobbo on Friday 20th April 22:14
AutoAndy said:
Welcome to the team Simon...you won’t regret getting an S....
I would also suggest starting with the “yellow connector”....it is a ford item that overloads in the TVR....
...then replace it, either by direct solder orchocolate boxchoc block connectors, etc....
Btw where in the country are you.....green S’s are the best colour...
I would also suggest starting with the “yellow connector”....it is a ford item that overloads in the TVR....
...then replace it, either by direct solder or
Btw where in the country are you.....green S’s are the best colour...
I would hazard a guess at Cambridge? ( Simon did give a small clue in his opening post. )
I had starting issues with my S1 a few years ago. It would eventually start but was very reluctant. Turned out that the wire from the starter solenoid to the coil had fallen off at the solenoid. This resulted in the ballast resister being in the circuit all the time.
To see if the issue is wiring to the coil I would run a wire from something I know has 12V (the battery would be a good choice) direct to the coil. This way you will be bypassing all the TVR wiring. Try starting it like this but remember you will have to disconnect that wire to stop it.
Also how old is you fuel. I know here in New Zealand the petrol goes off quite quickly and just won't burn.
Dave
To see if the issue is wiring to the coil I would run a wire from something I know has 12V (the battery would be a good choice) direct to the coil. This way you will be bypassing all the TVR wiring. Try starting it like this but remember you will have to disconnect that wire to stop it.
Also how old is you fuel. I know here in New Zealand the petrol goes off quite quickly and just won't burn.
Dave
GreenV8S said:
Isn't that going to overheat the coil? On a ballasted setup, it'll be designed to run at around 9V not 12V+.
You could do this briefly just to see if the engine starts without damaging the coil. If it did start then you would know where the problem was. I've done this on a Tasmin without causing any damage to the coil.If the problem is in the existing live feed buy THESE and create a new live feed. It's a lot easier than trying to find a fault in the old wire.
NZDave said:
The coil will stand the 12V for some time especially if the motor is running. It will give you time to find out if there is a wiring problem.
Dave
Using a multimeter will show voltagesDave
12 Volts to a 9 Volt coil won't find the cause but will definitely overheat the coil and draw higher than expected current through the amplifier which could damage it - Your method is a no goer
When a starter is cranking and the battery voltage has dropped to around 10 volts....then is the time to apply battery voltage to a 9 Volt coil for a better spark during cranking, 10 Volts to a 9 Volt coil is ok, 12 Volts to a 9 Volt coil isn't ok
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Saturday 21st April 11:58
phillpot said:
v8s4me said:
As a quick method of finding out whether or not there is a fault in the existing live feed, it works. I know because I've done it
The difference between theory and hands on experience ... No wait, that worked out fine too...
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