Steering Rack Gaiter Replacement

[BRGChimaera430]

Hi All,

I need to replace a split Gaiter on my '93 Non PAS Steering Rack, i've got a replacement and have had the wheel off, initially I thought I would remove the track rod end, but its very rusted and I can't loosen the clamping nut even after having it soaked in plusgas for a few days, so I don't fancy my chances for getting the rod end off with having nothing to clamp the track rod from spinning.

I've got myself a 32mm spanner as i thought it may be easier to remove the track rod, but I can't seem to get that to budge either!

Am I missing a trick because at this rate it looks like I might have to get the whole rack out just to replace the gaiter!

Thanks.

[phillpot]

Wire brush the threads and, by hook or crook get the track rod end nut loosened. Once it is loose there's every chance the track rod end itself won't be tight.
Split the taper joint and with the locknut only turned back as little as possible spin the track rod end off then measure the length of exposed thread so it all goes back together the same.

[Chimp871]

If it were me I'd use a gas torch on the securing nut. It usually breaks the rust seal. Just be careful.

[TwinKam]

(Evidence of) applying (excessive) heat to steering and suspension components is a stated MoT failure point... just sayin'.

[Brithunter]

Wonder who defines "excessive"?

Seems just another attempt at forcing us all into modern little clone metal boxes.

[phillpot]

Obviously you'd wire brush and paint it after "cooking" it, so no one would be any the wiser, not an issue

[BIG DUNC]

I expect any evidence of heat will be classed as excessive, but as said above not the end of the world to clean up and remove evidence.

[Chimp871]

TwinKam said:

(Evidence of) applying (excessive) heat to steering and suspension components is a stated MoT failure point... just sayin'.

I never knew that. Obvious solution though and probably used by garages, but I suppose that's OK if they're doing the Mot. Flawed process.

[phillpot]

perhaps this is aimed more at components where seals may be damaged by the heat or grease/lubricant destroyed......

[TwinKam]

phillpot said:

perhaps this is aimed more at components where seals may be damaged by the heat or grease/lubricant destroyed......

...heating metal affects its temper. Heat a link rod to cherry red and let it cool naturally. You've just effectively annealed it...
And yes, heat will travel into a ball joint and can melt the nylon cartilage.
You can cover up the evidence of using excessive heat, but who are you fooling?

[N7GTX]

No need to remove the track rod end from the steering arm.

Simply separate it from the hub. Cut the old gaiter off with snips or knife. Buy a pair of Bailcast gaiters. They are made of 'stretchy' rubber. In the box you get a small cone which you place over the track rod end. Lubricate the cone and boot with WD40 or silicone spray. Then simply place the end over the cone and drag it until the narrow end meets the cone. Now simply grip the gaiter and pull it over the cone. Job done and so easy too. The gaiters are guaranteed for years and having fitted them to hundreds of cars of all makes, never had one split or deteriorate. They also do CV boots and I've fitted them to my Chim, SD1 and the Golf. Fit and forget

See the pic from euro car parts for what you get:
https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/612770400?gcli...

I buy direct from the manufacturer and use the fitting table on their website:
http://www.bailcast.com/automotive/

Currently £12.10 +vat + postage for 2 DBSR200.

Edited by N7GTX on Friday 25th May 10:17

[TwinKam]

What. A. Bodge.
And how do you adjust the track? By hitting the wheel rim with a lump hammer ?
'Stretchy' boots should never have been invented, let alone offered for sale. They are not to OE standard and I have seen many get 'ingested' into CV joints and racks over the years.
Only ever acceptable as a 'get you home' bodge or for the terminally lazy IMNSHO

[N7GTX]

TwinKam said:

What. A. Bodge.
And how do you adjust the track? By hitting the wheel rim with a lump hammer ?
'Stretchy' boots should never have been invented, let alone offered for sale. They are not to OE standard and I have seen many get 'ingested' into CV joints and racks over the years.
Only ever acceptable as a 'get you home' bodge or for the terminally lazy IMNSHO

They are not to OE standard because neoprene based gaiters were not invented back then You have clearly mixed up the cheapo stuff - and I mean the very cheap ordinary rubber copies that get destroyed in 10 minutes - and the split in 2 type gaiters, with a premium product that carries a 2 year guarantee. And very many are where owners, who think they are mechanics like a lot on here, fit the one size fits all and 'forget' to cut them to size.

There are many makes of these now and that is why I always buy from Bailcast.

They DO NOT get mangled up and ingested when they are trimmed to fit and correctly set. They have been on my cars for years and resist cracking and splitting when very cold plus sharp ends on plastic tie wraps don;t puncture them either like OE rubber ones do.

And why would you need to adjust the track? You wont be disturbing it by lifting the TRE off the hub. If at a later date you do need to adjust the tracking, the garage you take it to will have the problem, not the OP.

I have no idea why you posted such an offensive post, maybe your health is not so good, but it certainly wasn't called for.

Edited by N7GTX on Friday 25th May 15:09

[Sardonicus]

Must admit Bailcast,QH,Shaftec,Q Drive etc etc stretchy/split whatever's have not got a good rep in my 30+ years, I wouldn't use them so like mentioned to get out of trouble etc maybe I dont like doing jobs twice unpaid hence my comment and due skepticism N7GTX if you have had good results then fair play time saver for you

[TwinKam]

Offensive? My experience. My opinions. Which, since the demise of Blair and The Thought Police, we are now allowed to have again.
I'm talking best practice, why aim lower?
Why refit a seized assembly when you have the opportunity then and there to sort it first?
Why fit an inferior quality/ design part?
It amazes me how motor manufacturers spend millions on R&D (well, maybe not TVR!) only for owners to think they know better and deviate from OE design and quality.
Incidentally (seeing as you mentioned them) plastic tywraps have no place on gaiters, they should be secured with crimped metal bands.
So there are many parts/ practices that are acceptable bodges in order to get home (or finish the rally/ outrun the Taliban). But surely you want the best parts/ best practice for your car, not just 'it'll do'?
Aim for excellence when you have the time, facilities and opportunity. Bodges are for emergencies.

Edited by TwinKam on Friday 25th May 16:11

[N7GTX]

Sardonicus said:

Must admit Bailcast,QH,Shaftec,Q Drive etc etc stretchy/split whatever's have not got a good rep in my 30+ years, I wouldn't use them so like mentioned to get out of trouble etc maybe I dont like doing jobs twice unpaid hence my comment and due skepticism N7GTX if you have had good results then fair play time saver for you

These are permanent repairs using a suitable product which, is in my opinion, far superior to the likes of Audi CV boots - think A4s here - which split when you looked at them. I have lost count of the number of them I have replaced with the correct size Bailcast items at the roadside. And years later when checking the same cars on their annual service they have been completely undamaged.
Like you I have been repairing cars professionally. In dealerships, family owned garages and when running my own business from 1995 till last year when I had to retire. From 1987 to 1995 I was the foreman in a Caterpillar workshop and other engineering companies so a wide base of experience. Prior to that I was a full blown amateur in RAF Car Clubs building engines and cars both for colleagues, friends and family. I even started in this business in 1970 in a car accessory shop relining brake shoes and all that uninteresting jazz. So, I'm nearly as old as you.

[N7GTX]

TwinKam said:

Offensive? My experience. My opinions. Which, since the demise of Blair and The Thought Police, we are now allowed to have again.
I'm talking best practice, why aim lower?
Why refit a seized assembly when you have the opportunity then and there to sort it first?
Why fit an inferior quality/ design part?
It amazes me how motor manufacturers spend millions on R&D (well, maybe not TVR!) only for owners to think they know better and deviate from OE design and quality.
Incidentally (seeing as you mentioned them) plastic tywraps have no place on gaiters, they should be secured with crimped metal bands.
So there are many parts/ practices that are acceptable bodges in order to get home (or finish the rally/ outrun the Taliban). But surely you want the best parts/ best practice for your car, not just 'it'll do'?
Aim for excellence when you have the time, facilities and opportunity. Bodges are for emergencies.

Edited by TwinKam on Friday 25th May 16:11

The OP cannot fix it so he now has options posted by various people trying to help. All your replies are negative and baseless. As for TVR quality steering rack boots, I had to replace them on my Cerb after 12 months and the first set on the Chim failed again after 12 months. They were from TVR dealers, not Euro Car Parts.
Funny, the Bailcast have not failed and look as good as new after 5,000 miles. All the CV boots on the driveshafts are Bailcast, replacing the cracked and split originals. They too are as good as new.
So that's why I fit a quality manufactured part. I don't have to take it to a rip off garage for it to be replaced yet again. It is not a bodge. It is not a 'it'll do'.

[Sardonicus]

N7GTX said:

Sardonicus said:

Must admit Bailcast,QH,Shaftec,Q Drive etc etc stretchy/split whatever's have not got a good rep in my 30+ years, I wouldn't use them so like mentioned to get out of trouble etc maybe I dont like doing jobs twice unpaid hence my comment and due skepticism N7GTX if you have had good results then fair play time saver for you

These are permanent repairs using a suitable product which, is in my opinion, far superior to the likes of Audi CV boots - think A4s here - which split when you looked at them. I have lost count of the number of them I have replaced with the correct size Bailcast items at the roadside. And years later when checking the same cars on their annual service they have been completely undamaged.
Like you I have been repairing cars professionally. In dealerships, family owned garages and when running my own business from 1995 till last year when I had to retire. From 1987 to 1995 I was the foreman in a Caterpillar workshop and other engineering companies so a wide base of experience. Prior to that I was a full blown amateur in RAF Car Clubs building engines and cars both for colleagues, friends and family. I even started in this business in 1970 in a car accessory shop relining brake shoes and all that uninteresting jazz. So, I'm nearly as old as you.

That last bit .....

[N7GTX]

Sardonicus said:

N7GTX said:

Sardonicus said:

Must admit Bailcast,QH,Shaftec,Q Drive etc etc stretchy/split whatever's have not got a good rep in my 30+ years, I wouldn't use them so like mentioned to get out of trouble etc maybe I dont like doing jobs twice unpaid hence my comment and due skepticism N7GTX if you have had good results then fair play time saver for you

These are permanent repairs using a suitable product which, is in my opinion, far superior to the likes of Audi CV boots - think A4s here - which split when you looked at them. I have lost count of the number of them I have replaced with the correct size Bailcast items at the roadside. And years later when checking the same cars on their annual service they have been completely undamaged.
Like you I have been repairing cars professionally. In dealerships, family owned garages and when running my own business from 1995 till last year when I had to retire. From 1987 to 1995 I was the foreman in a Caterpillar workshop and other engineering companies so a wide base of experience. Prior to that I was a full blown amateur in RAF Car Clubs building engines and cars both for colleagues, friends and family. I even started in this business in 1970 in a car accessory shop relining brake shoes and all that uninteresting jazz. So, I'm nearly as old as you.

That last bit .....

[TwinKam]

My suggestions are not negative nor baseless.
Clearly I am nowhere near as old as you, Iain , but I have had my own garage business since 1980 and am still in business today, so I have experience and am aware of the current sphere too. My continued reputation and livelihood depend upon it.
Debate is healthy, especially if it causes people to question their (long held, but sometimes mis-held) beliefs. Old wives' tales and urban myths persist. In this age, they have spread from the bar-room to proliferate on the web; 'everyone' thinks that they are an expert. Most of us do still have some things to learn, but misplaced machismo hinders returning to the facts.
We are fortunate in the UK to have the freedom to repair and choose 'non-approved' parts for our cars, a position that many in the United States of EU do not. Ultimately, cars are potential lethal instruments, so we would all do well to remember our responsibilities in repairing them (whether our own, or those of customers). Beware, accident investigators are well trained to find 'non-OE' hooks to hang the burden of blame upon...
So if I have aroused a spark of awareness in anyone to even question their own 'good practice' (eg injudicious heating of critical components) or about the choice of suitable replacement parts, then it has been a well-intentioned, experience-based and positive exercise, where all opinions are welcome.