Budget quickshift

[Fefeu52]

Hi all,

As possibly every S-owner, I'm not satisfied by the feeling of my S gear stick. So I think about fitting a quickshift system. I already read the thread on the nice Quaife device modified by Kitchski (Richard) from Southways Automotive to fit our cars. I'm pretty sure this is the best way, but for the moment, I don't want to spend much money in this device.

So I would like to talk about this cheaper way :


(Picture from Burton Power)

I can realise it for free. I found the spacer drawing on a Russian website :


Come from there : https://www.drive2.ru/l/483515736946377422/

I also need 3 hex M8x35 bolts in 12.9 quality (free) and for the 2 little cylindrical spacers, I can use bronze bearing ans modify it (free).

I know that several members on this forum have already use this device : Sebackman posted this picture :



So he replaced the cheaper solution by the Southways's one. And Phillipot also wrote he has the cheaper solution.

Could you please tell me the drawbacks with this solution ? Do you like using it ? Is it worth doing it ? Or I shouldn't wast my time doing it and wait.

Regards

[phillpot]

Those kits are so cheap it's hardly worth messing around making one, unless you're doing it in works time


Because of the TVR dog leg in the lever I found I had to cut the rubber bellows thingy down a bit otherwise I could push down for reverse.


the plus side is, if your gearbox is a bit tired, with a "quickshift" you have even more chance of crunching gears as you beat the synchro's

[Fefeu52]

phillpot said:

Those kits are so cheap it's hardly worth messing around making one, unless you're doing it in works time

Pass

phillpot said:

the plus side is, if your gearbox is a bit tired, with a "quickshift" you have even more chance of crunching gears as you beat the synchro's

Right, but this point is common to all types of quickshift systems. I'm never brutal with mechanics, I'm not afraid by crushing anything. I don't want to speed-up the gear change, I just don't like the feeling....especially when moving from front (1st, 3rd, 5th) to back (2nd, 4th). I have to lift up the knob (due to circular translation of the gear stick, instead of pure rotation on a regular system). I hope the quickshift system fitment will reduce the feeling ( for want of completely remove it)

[mentall]

On my original shift I was putting my passenger's right eye in danger with my elbow, going from 1st to 2nd. That's the upward rotation you've got, Florian.
Richard's (Kitschki) quickshift is a delight to use: I hope yours is as good.

Do change the nylon saddle on the selector shaft: it won't break the bank, even from BurtonPower, and a new one makes a big difference. I'd love to try a bronze one, though.

[Fefeu52]

mentall said:

On my original shift I was putting my passenger's right eye in danger with my elbow, going from 1st to 2nd.

That's exactly the same thing for me

mentall said:

Do change the nylon saddle on the selector shaft: it won't break the bank, even from BurtonPower, and a new one makes a big difference. I'd love to try a bronze one, though.

OK. I have read that bronze ones tend to rattle, and made the driver mad.... any opinion on the subject ?

[motomatchless]

Hi all, I have put the Burton kit, it is quite ok, the gear change is more direct but also a bit harder.
it is easy to fit and strangely the noise from the enoying noise from the gearbox disapeared.

[phillpot]

Fefeu52 said:

for the 2 little cylindrical spacers, I can use bronze bearing ans modify it (free).

Can't recall where the nylon one goes or what it does?

But, the metal one goes around the shaft and is squeezed in a bit then the "ball" knocked back down a little bit to hold it. I suspect bronze would not tolerate that and would crack?

[Fefeu52]

phillpot said:

Can't recall where the nylon one goes or what it does?

On the Ford config, the rubber gaiter is hold by steel crimping.



You have to grind it to allow the stick to go lower. After that, the nylon spacer is use to retain the gaiter, 14mm upper.

phillpot said:

But, the metal one goes around the shaft and is squeezed in a bit then the "ball" knocked back down a little bit to hold it. I suspect bronze would not tolerate that and would crack?

You should be right, that may be better to use a steel pipe. OK.

[phillpot]

Fefeu52 said:

On the Ford config, the rubber gaiter is hold by steel crimping.
You have to grind it to allow the stick to go lower. After that, the nylon spacer is use to retain the gaiter, 14mm upper.

Yes, makes sense now, TVR cut the lever off just above those crimps, hence the nylon spacer doesn't fit and the rubber gaiter needs cutting shorter

[Garytooms]

Southways Automotive is the way to go, i have 1 fitted to my 1991 S3 2.9 its easy to fit took me 2 hrs start to finish.

[phillpot]

Mine cost fifteen quid, remind me again, how much was yours? ...



Time or money, depends what you have most of....

Edited by phillpot on Friday 9th November 17:36

[Kitchski]

Some interesting viewpoints.

I actually explored using the insert way back when I was rebuilding my S1. I decided to go with the full rose-jointed lever as from previous experience, the shift action with the adapter insert didn't give the accurate 'feel' I was after. The reverse selection was still a bit on the vague side, and in a couple of the cars I experiences, gear selection itself proved quite tricky.

I made the prototype lever back in 2014 (I think) and couldn't believe the difference. I never actually planned to produce them for anyone else, it was simply as a result of customers sitting in my car and trying it out, then asking me to make more.

Thanks to everyone who bought one. I'll probably do another run soon, though the initial demand has now been settled at least

[Fefeu52]

Thanks for all the replies.

I have never wanted to open a battle between pros and cons Southways' quickshift lever. On all Ford T9 accessories sellers, we can find the 2 quickshift devices. As there is a huge price difference between both, I just wanted to know the drawbacks of the cheaper one. I retain that the command is smoother and that the reverse gear selection is easier and more accurate with the complete lever.
Thanks for the saddle changing advice. I will do.

As I previously said, making the spacer won't cost me a penny ..... and is already done :



So I will test and give you my opinion.

phillpot said:

Time or money, depends what you have most of....

I totally agree with that. I don't have much time, but no more money. And as soon as something is done, I start another project, so time is not really a parameter.... if the car is not immobilized.

[Fefeu52]

Hi all,

I installed the quickshift mod last week-end. I have to say it's not so easy to do. First of all, removing the 3 torx head screws is just a pain. I had to drill a hole in the body fibre to access to the back screw. This screw head was already damaged so I had to drill to remove it.

My spacer and the bolts was OK. I changed the nylon saddle easily but the old was not worn. I made the lever spacer with a little 2.5mm -thick steel sheet.

The lever fork slips with difficulty in the new nylon saddle. I have to push strongly on the knob to be able to engage the reverse gear. I also have to help the lever to go back in upper position. But this "problem" come from the new saddle, not the quick-shift mod. I put a lot of grease to help... I hope time and wear will help.

But concerning the gear selection .... that's GREAT .... The lever stroke is much shorter. There is no difficulty to select the correct gear. Perfect.

Edited by Fefeu52 on Friday 11th January 08:02

[Bercilac]

I've just done the same mod to my S1 Type 9 using a kit from a rally spares supplier costing about £15. I found the mod easy to do, mainly because the box was on the workbench at the time.

The only problem I had was one very soft screw hole which may have been damaged when the original screws were fitted at the factory. I managed to repair the thread without having to use an insert, but its worth bearing in mind and taking your time as these screws could easily be over torqued.

[Fefeu52]

Bercilac said:

I found the mod easy to do, mainly because the box was on the workbench at the time.

Of course, with the box out of the car, it's FAR easier

[Fefeu52]

Fefeu52 said:

The lever fork slips with difficulty in the new nylon saddle. I have to push strongly on the knob to be able to engage the reverse gear. I also have to help the lever to go back in upper position. But this "problem" come from the new saddle, not the quick-shift mod. I put a lot of grease to help... I hope time and wear will help.

After some hundreds of miles, the gear-stick is now sliding freely. Perfect