S1 engine mounts - what size are originals? same as S3?

S1 engine mounts - what size are originals? same as S3?

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larrylamb11

Original Poster:

583 posts

251 months

Tuesday 13th November 2018
quotequote all
Descending further down the rabbit hole of a 'quick' S1 recommission (turns out these things are never quick!), I find myself casting a suspicious eye over a pair of potentially squidgy looking engine mountings.....
I've read a number of threads on how much of a pig to change these are, so only want to attempt this job once ideally! Consequently I am not overly keen to try and fit standard replacement Ford parts given the number of other people who have done just that and found them collapsed again within a couple of years.
I am struggling to ascertain how big the mountings actually were originally.... whether they were 1½" or 2" and I can't measure the ones that are on there as they have sagged, so I am not sure which mounts to order as replacement......
I see a lot of threads recommending the Rally Design RD410 mounts at 50mm and the 'NEW Alternative Parts list' spreadsheet recommends the Burton Power 52mm FP292 mounts. I have also found THESE 44mm Polyurethane mounts on eBay, listed as fitting the S3 - but will they also fit the S1?
I am sorely tempted by the Poly mounts as they are even less likely to deteriorate and require replacement than the other ones, but I could really use the sage guidance of those who have experience of this, please.....
What is the current consensus on the best mounts to fit to the S1?

Edited by larrylamb11 on Tuesday 13th November 15:53

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Tuesday 13th November 2018
quotequote all

Pretty sure they'll be the same whether you have the 2.8 or 2.9 engine, hopefully Richard or another S1 owner will be along shortly to confirm?

If you opt for the Burton mounts I'd reccommend you also get the stainless cups


Your link is not working for me but guess they are something like these ?
If I didn't already have the Burton mounts and cups (which seem to be holding up well) I'd be trying those. Could always be packed out a bit if engine sits too low scratchchin

larrylamb11

Original Poster:

583 posts

251 months

Tuesday 13th November 2018
quotequote all
Ah, thanks for that - link fixed.

Yes, those are essentially the ones I was looking at. It does seem logical to me that all the V6 engines used the same mounts... but this is a TVR, so you just never know! If I can get some figures on how big the original mounts are supposed to be, I can make a call on whether the ones on eBay would be suitable or whether I am better going for the Rally Designs ones.

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Tuesday 13th November 2018
quotequote all


Personally I wouldn't go for the Rally Design ones. Of course the Burton ones may come from the same source and are just holding up better because of the cups?

glenrobbo

35,242 posts

150 months

Tuesday 13th November 2018
quotequote all
I fitted the Burton FP292 mounts to my S1. I also fitted a couple of 3 mm thick spacers that I made to give more clearance between sump and anti-roll bar.
I would also have fitted the anti-sag cups if they had been available at the time. However, the mounts haven't yet sagged noticeably, so I can recommend the Burton ones.
Having said that, the originals had lasted for over 25 years, so I can't really see the point of switching to polyurethane.

1 1/2" mounts would cause the engine to sit too low.

A quick tip:
I would recommend shortening the mount studs a fair amount so you don't have to struggle winding the stiffnuts all the way down the surplus threads.
Equip yourself with a 17mm swivel headed fine ratchet ring spanner. It makes the job a lot less of a struggle.

Good luck.




phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Tuesday 13th November 2018
quotequote all
glenrobbo said:
Having said that, the originals had lasted for over 25 years, so I can't really see the point of switching to polyurethane.
Because modern replacements are possibly not of the same quality as originals?

My Rally Design ones were in the bin within two or three years!


.............. and Poly looks cool cool


A wealth of advice and suggestions here if you've not already found this old thread


Edited by phillpot on Tuesday 13th November 17:50

larrylamb11

Original Poster:

583 posts

251 months

Tuesday 13th November 2018
quotequote all
Ok, thanks for the comments. Seems it's still a bit of a lottery with the aftermarket bits then.....
The eBay ones are 44mm, so 1¾" - does it seem likely they are thick enough to prevent anti roll bar / sump interference? Given what I have learnt so far I am leaning towards a pair of the Polyurethane mounts in black as a (hopefully) long term fit and forget solution., avoiding rubber ones altogether.

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Tuesday 13th November 2018
quotequote all
larrylamb11 said:
The eBay ones are 44mm, so 1¾" - does it seem likely they are thick enough to prevent anti roll bar / sump interference?
there's one way to find out!

Wouldn't be the end of the World to make some 6mm spacers if neccessary? .... stuff to make spacers

glenrobbo

35,242 posts

150 months

Tuesday 13th November 2018
quotequote all
I made some spacers out of 3 mm thick square washers from my local DIY shop.
I hacksawed a slot in each to ease fitment.



I used those with the Burton 52 mm thick mounts for a bit of extra clearance.
I think 44 mm would be too thin, you'd need 11mm of spacers to get a decent clearance between sump & ARB, plus you would loose the compliance of a thicker section, resulting in harshness and vibration.

Don't forget that the lower the engine sits, the less clearance you have between the exhaust and the road.


Edited by glenrobbo on Tuesday 13th November 23:45

fozzy280472

305 posts

148 months

Wednesday 14th November 2018
quotequote all
I replaced my mounts this year using the Burton mounts and stainless cups , a small bit of advice that might be worth considering is cutting around 1/2cm to 1 cm of the mount stud at each end , it makes the actual locating and fitting the mounts easier by not having to jack the engine and box up too much.
I also used stainless penny washers and spring washers under plain nuts when I did the mounts up as you can run the nuts down the studs by finger and need only use a spanner for nipping the nuts up tight . The less spannering needed on these the better ! You'll see why when you remove them .
Hope this is of use.