1990 S2 Hot Start Issues
Discussion
Hi, there are various mentions of hot start issues when I search mainly it seems with Chimaera’s. Recently bouught a S2, it hasn’t been used much in the past 5 years so I’m giving it some tlc during the winter months. It starts absolutely fine when cold, I’ve noticed a bit of lag when revving from the EFI but this disappears after a few minutes as car gets warmer. But then it just will not start for at least 30 minutes until it’s cooled down.
Has anyone any new advice on how to fix this ? Car does have a thatcham immobiliser fitted but you can hear the fuel pump whirring.
Thanks
Martin
Has anyone any new advice on how to fix this ? Car does have a thatcham immobiliser fitted but you can hear the fuel pump whirring.
Thanks
Martin
When you say that it doesn't start. Does it turn over but not start or does it just not turn over at all?
On my old S2 the starter motor didn't turn the engine over once it got hot. Easily fixed with a relay wired in to activate the starter solenoid, taking the load off the wiring through the ignition switch.
If that is your problem then I could knock up a sketch of a wiring diagram for you.
Rob
On my old S2 the starter motor didn't turn the engine over once it got hot. Easily fixed with a relay wired in to activate the starter solenoid, taking the load off the wiring through the ignition switch.
If that is your problem then I could knock up a sketch of a wiring diagram for you.
Rob
If the engine won't crank over, there are some fairly common causes for that. However, if you can reproduce the problem then rather than guess it would be better to diagnose the problem methodically:
Measure the voltage across the battery and across the starter solenoid with the switch in the 'cranking' position. The battery voltage should be over 12.5V and the solenoid voltage should be at least 95% of the battery voltage.
If the solenoid is getting the correct voltage, you probably have a mechanical problem in the starter motor assembly. It's exposed to dirt and heat and they do eventually get gummed up.
If it isn't getting the correct voltage you have an electrical problem. You need to follow the wiring from the battery, ignition switch, immobiliser, solenoid and earth return to see where the voltage drop occurs. The dreaded yellow connector by the ignition switch is notoriously unreliable and if you still have the original connector there that would be the first thing to suspect.
ETA:
If it cranks over but won't fire, check the spark strength. Coils often fail when hot. One low tech way to diagnose that is to wrap a bag of frozen peas around the coil; if it starts working within a couple of minutes, you may have a duff coil.
Measure the voltage across the battery and across the starter solenoid with the switch in the 'cranking' position. The battery voltage should be over 12.5V and the solenoid voltage should be at least 95% of the battery voltage.
If the solenoid is getting the correct voltage, you probably have a mechanical problem in the starter motor assembly. It's exposed to dirt and heat and they do eventually get gummed up.
If it isn't getting the correct voltage you have an electrical problem. You need to follow the wiring from the battery, ignition switch, immobiliser, solenoid and earth return to see where the voltage drop occurs. The dreaded yellow connector by the ignition switch is notoriously unreliable and if you still have the original connector there that would be the first thing to suspect.
ETA:
If it cranks over but won't fire, check the spark strength. Coils often fail when hot. One low tech way to diagnose that is to wrap a bag of frozen peas around the coil; if it starts working within a couple of minutes, you may have a duff coil.
Edited by GreenV8S on Monday 10th December 22:38
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