Discussion
What is supposed to hold the valve seals to the shoulder, fitted one but it’s risen off. Looking at all the old ones they are not seated either. Old ones were very hard and brittle, new ones soft rubber.
Picture is one of the originals, clearly see the seal is not on the shoulder. I had pushed the new one on, but after removing spring compressor it’s popped off.
Picture is one of the originals, clearly see the seal is not on the shoulder. I had pushed the new one on, but after removing spring compressor it’s popped off.
Adrian. They fit over snuggly enough requiring a little push on, I think the spring compressor may have caught the new one trying to get the retainers on, but when I checked all the existing ones they were off the shoulder, hence why I asked the question. It’s tricky trying to get the new one back one with the spring there, I tried to push it down with two screwdrivers but not too successfully and didn’t want to damage the new seal. A smear of high temp RTV sealant will hold them in place I guess.
The existing seals are black and exactly the same as the one I took off. This is an S1 so has the 2.8 engine.
The existing seals are black and exactly the same as the one I took off. This is an S1 so has the 2.8 engine.
Edited by 88S1 on Sunday 30th January 17:13
Lee, I am surprised I do not have pictures of my 2.8 from when worked on the top end and put in the the new injectors (mine is a 86 280DH). I do have it in my head that all the 280 engines I have worked on have hand the slimline Reinz seals and not the black versions. THe Reinz version has a smaller ID and so fits tighter, but is smaller on the OD. I know that I had to have my Turbo (Essex V6) heads modified to accept the Reinz version (as you say over time the black ones go brittle) and with more attention to how the heads went together shimming valve springs etc. and expecting the heads to be running a little hotter, I did not want that to happen. A@
Edited by Adrian@ on Sunday 30th January 18:59
phillpot said:
These are from a 2.9 top end set, the outer cover is metal.
If you'd like to give these a try drop me your address.
Interesting, they do look to be an improvement on the original type. I have a new spring compressor coming tomorrow that I think won’t catch the seal when re-installing, let me see if that was the issue and I’ll see how snug the ones I have actually are, wasn’t paying too much attention in the first one I did. Thanks for you help as ever. If you'd like to give these a try drop me your address.
I did it with the head back on using this tool in first photo, but had to get the legs right to the bottom of the spring as the collet where it connects to the top of the spring is deep and made it really hard to get to the split cotter thingys.
I’ve ordered the one in the second photo, which is open so hopefully will work much better and give better access.
If I was doing it again I would do it with the heads off using the tool you’ve shown. But as they are back on and torqued up etc will give it another shot.
I’ve ordered the one in the second photo, which is open so hopefully will work much better and give better access.
If I was doing it again I would do it with the heads off using the tool you’ve shown. But as they are back on and torqued up etc will give it another shot.
New compressing tool is soooooo much better, took a few minutes to do (packed chamber with polypropylene rope to stop valves dropping if anyone was wondering). Made sure seat was fully cleaned of oil and seals are a good snug press on fit, so it must just have been the previous tool catching it. Happy days.
Would recommend this tool to do the job of you don’t want to remove the heads.
Would recommend this tool to do the job of you don’t want to remove the heads.
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