S1 Rear Hub Removal

S1 Rear Hub Removal

Author
Discussion

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Saturday 10th August 2019
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
88S1 said:
Ok, so can we clear this up, is this correct?

NS Rear - LH Thread
NS Front - RH Thread

OS Rear - RH Thread
OS Front - LH Thread
What do you mean by 'correct'?

There will be some cars like that. There will be others that are different. There are conflicting opinions about what is best from the engineering point of view. My own understanding suggests that both nuts on the nearside should be LHT but some manufacturers obviously think differently.
Ok, here’s another spanner to throw in, the nut on the rear is on the outside of the hub, but the nut on the front is on the inside, which would mean it’s thread should be opposite to the rear.

If that’s correct, then this ties up with my listed order.

Someone must know what the correct configuration is.



phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Saturday 10th August 2019
quotequote all
GreenV8S said:
. My own understanding suggests that both nuts on the nearside should be LHT but some manufacturers obviously think differently.
Yes but, the front nuts are inside hence opposite thread wink

GreenV8S

30,194 posts

284 months

Sunday 11th August 2019
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Yes but, the front nuts are inside hence opposite thread wink
If the nuts tighten in the direction that tends to roll the car forwards then that makes sense.

shaunodude1

34 posts

73 months

Sunday 11th August 2019
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I DONT KNOW IF THIS WILL HELP IT'S OUT OF SCORIPO HAYNES BOOK

shaunodude1

34 posts

73 months

Sunday 11th August 2019
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Sorry about side way pics I gave up trying

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Sunday 11th August 2019
quotequote all
shaunodude1 said:
Sorry about side way pics I gave up trying
No problem, the photo from Haynes manual I posted last Friday is the right way round wink

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Monday 12th August 2019
quotequote all
shaunodude1 said:
I DONT KNOW IF THIS WILL HELP IT'S OUT OF SCORIPO HAYNES BOOK
Ok, so that also agrees with my listed handings. Thanks.

zombeh

693 posts

187 months

Tuesday 13th August 2019
quotequote all
88S1 said:
Wasn’t sure if I was missing something obvious, there’s 2 big holes in the faceplate and thought they may be for something.
The holes in the hub face are for getting a socket through to the hub carrier bolts

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Wednesday 14th August 2019
quotequote all
Anyone know where to buy or what the correct name for little metal spring clip on the brake cable is called. One has broken as it was corroded and I can’t find them after searching.


phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Wednesday 14th August 2019
quotequote all
Don't bother, you can put a tie wrap around the outer sleeve once it's through the backplate but it shouldn't be slack enough to come out.

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Wednesday 14th August 2019
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Don't bother, you can put a tie wrap around the outer sleeve once it's through the backplate but it shouldn't be slack enough to come out.
Ok, I did eventually find this though.


phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Wednesday 14th August 2019
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It's your money wink

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Thursday 15th August 2019
quotequote all
phillpot said:
It's your money wink
Ordered a box of these, may do the job.


88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Thursday 22nd August 2019
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Anyone know what the drum backing plate on a S1 is from. It’s either hours of work or buy new/better ones. Searched and can’t seem to find anything. Any help appreciated.

TVRees

1,080 posts

112 months

Thursday 22nd August 2019
quotequote all
Find someone who can shotblast the old ones and then repaint them.
smile

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Thursday 22nd August 2019
quotequote all
TVRees said:
Find someone who can shotblast the old ones and then repaint them.
smile
Thanks. Wasn’t sure if shotblast would be too harsh, I’ll throw them in when the chassis gets sent then.


greymrj

3,316 posts

204 months

Thursday 22nd August 2019
quotequote all
Never ever needed to change one on any of the cars I have restored, except one where the entire brake mechanism had come adrift and destroyed pretty well everything! Shot blast or, if you are concerned about the amount of metal, get them chemically cleaned (less abrasive but usually dearer). I am lucky, top class chemical cleaner in Preston with a tank to do full chassis or shell if needed. (anybody in my area, they are called Ribble Technology (Preston) ltd.

88S1

Original Poster:

715 posts

61 months

Thursday 22nd August 2019
quotequote all
greymrj said:
Never ever needed to change one on any of the cars I have restored, except one where the entire brake mechanism had come adrift and destroyed pretty well everything! Shot blast or, if you are concerned about the amount of metal, get them chemically cleaned (less abrasive but usually dearer). I am lucky, top class chemical cleaner in Preston with a tank to do full chassis or shell if needed. (anybody in my area, they are called Ribble Technology (Preston) ltd.
A Porsche refurb guy I know mentioned them to me too, as an alternative to shot blasting the chassis.

greymrj

3,316 posts

204 months

Thursday 22nd August 2019
quotequote all
It is less damaging and doesn't fill it with sand! However you MUST get it properly dried and be ready to paint the next day. Best to get a precise time to book in and get it back. Don't just deliver it or it may have to wait outside.

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Thursday 22nd August 2019
quotequote all
88S1 said:
Anyone know what the drum backing plate on a S1 is from.
The rear drum brakes on all S's (with drum brakes) are from a Ford Sierra. Go for 1.8 or 2.0 litre. The 1.6 (was there a 1.3?) had smaller brakes and some top range/performance models had disc brakes.