TVR S1 gauges problem
Discussion
Hello everyone,
I bought a 1989 TVR S1, since last week it is inspected and registered. I really love it! It is such a fantastic car! But yesterday I was driving and the ventilator (with a switch) didn’t work so the engine was getting hot (it was just not in the red on the gauge), so I stopped and waited for it too cool down. A little later when I repeated my way home the four gauges stopped working at the same time (fuel, water temperature, oil pressure & battery voltmeter) and I received a low battery warning for a few seconds. But the radio, clock, speedometer, rev counter and lights all work great (except the turning signal?).
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks!
Jérôme
I bought a 1989 TVR S1, since last week it is inspected and registered. I really love it! It is such a fantastic car! But yesterday I was driving and the ventilator (with a switch) didn’t work so the engine was getting hot (it was just not in the red on the gauge), so I stopped and waited for it too cool down. A little later when I repeated my way home the four gauges stopped working at the same time (fuel, water temperature, oil pressure & battery voltmeter) and I received a low battery warning for a few seconds. But the radio, clock, speedometer, rev counter and lights all work great (except the turning signal?).
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks!
Jérôme
GreenV8S said:
You have an electrical fault.
I concur, definitely sounds like an electrical issue 
jeromeparmentier said:
the ventilator (with a switch) didn’t work
the automatic switch fitted to the radiator pipe or has a previous owner fitted a manual over ride switch?Electrics were never TVR's strong point and sadly, over the years, so many cars get their electrics fixed or modified by people who don't have a clue what they're doing. Trying to locate and check all earth points is certainly, as advised, a good place to start.
A wiring diagram, a multimeter and lots of patience should sort it
It may be more than one problem, each of which might also intermittent. I recently had to debug a number of electrical problems during the rebuild of my 1988 S1 and found that I needed to test each component using a multimeter.
I found the only way to do this is to work logically, checking the gauges first and then the sender units.
I tested each gauge and sender using a multi-meter and found a defective oil pressure sender and some defective wiring which I cut out and replaced. This included a very lame immobiliser and the melted, yellow plastic ignition wiring connector. This can be cut out, longer wires soldered in (to allow the steering column to be lowered without disconnecting) and heat shrink over the top.
I also added a couple of additional earthing points on the chassis and earthed the battery to the engine and chassis using thick cable.
Fixing and testing the gauges is much easier with the dashboard out, a simple operation.
To remove the dashboard there are two screws at the left and right hand sides of the transmission tunnel and two more near to where it meets the door.
The various leads can be labelled to help you put it back together but it is fairly simple if you take photographs of the rats nest behind there. I also found that half the mini lights were not wired up to anything, very odd!
Finally, it may be worth checking the little rheostat thingy on the engine bay firewall. Mine had partially crumbled and the wire had corroded through. I replaced it with a new one I had lying around and the instrument lights started to work.
Regarding the overheating it could be a stuck thermostat, failed otter switch or faulty fan, or all of these of course.
I found my otter switch had failed so I replaced it with a Ford Fiesta item that simply screwed into the pipe, no need for the crazy clamping system TVR provided.
I also had a leaky radiator which I replaced with a Subaru alloy one, and its associated high flow fan, and finally the heater matrix and thermostat also needed to be replaced (I was replacing the water pump, thermostat housing, swirl pot and all hoses anyway).
Good luck and have fun hunting down these minor irritations. Once you have fixed and or upgraded your car it will be reliable. They are such simple machines.
I found the only way to do this is to work logically, checking the gauges first and then the sender units.
I tested each gauge and sender using a multi-meter and found a defective oil pressure sender and some defective wiring which I cut out and replaced. This included a very lame immobiliser and the melted, yellow plastic ignition wiring connector. This can be cut out, longer wires soldered in (to allow the steering column to be lowered without disconnecting) and heat shrink over the top.
I also added a couple of additional earthing points on the chassis and earthed the battery to the engine and chassis using thick cable.
Fixing and testing the gauges is much easier with the dashboard out, a simple operation.
To remove the dashboard there are two screws at the left and right hand sides of the transmission tunnel and two more near to where it meets the door.
The various leads can be labelled to help you put it back together but it is fairly simple if you take photographs of the rats nest behind there. I also found that half the mini lights were not wired up to anything, very odd!
Finally, it may be worth checking the little rheostat thingy on the engine bay firewall. Mine had partially crumbled and the wire had corroded through. I replaced it with a new one I had lying around and the instrument lights started to work.
Regarding the overheating it could be a stuck thermostat, failed otter switch or faulty fan, or all of these of course.
I found my otter switch had failed so I replaced it with a Ford Fiesta item that simply screwed into the pipe, no need for the crazy clamping system TVR provided.
I also had a leaky radiator which I replaced with a Subaru alloy one, and its associated high flow fan, and finally the heater matrix and thermostat also needed to be replaced (I was replacing the water pump, thermostat housing, swirl pot and all hoses anyway).
Good luck and have fun hunting down these minor irritations. Once you have fixed and or upgraded your car it will be reliable. They are such simple machines.
Hey everyone!
First of all I want to thank you all! Really nice to have so much advice so fast! Thanks for all the help!
Yesterday I had a little time and checked the fuses at the passengers side with a multimeter. And yes I found one that didn't work, I replaced it and immediately all of the four gauges worked again! Happy!!
There was one fuse (25) that I didn't get out and I also could not check it. Maybe it is this one for the ventilator? I ordered a box of fuses and I will try to locate and check everything this weekend.
Everything is new for me so if you have any advice for me, I'm always interested to learn!
Big thanks!
First of all I want to thank you all! Really nice to have so much advice so fast! Thanks for all the help!
Yesterday I had a little time and checked the fuses at the passengers side with a multimeter. And yes I found one that didn't work, I replaced it and immediately all of the four gauges worked again! Happy!!
There was one fuse (25) that I didn't get out and I also could not check it. Maybe it is this one for the ventilator? I ordered a box of fuses and I will try to locate and check everything this weekend.
Everything is new for me so if you have any advice for me, I'm always interested to learn!
Big thanks!
Maybe I'll be stating the obvious for some, and a bit too much info for others, but here's some info, from my own hands-on experiences
Based on the (S290) wiring diagram extract above.
The 4 by 4 fuse layout has a letter ID system (abc etc, but its hard to see).
The number on each fuse is the rating (ie. 15amps), as per the other fuse only image above.
The first 2 vertical rows of fuses (from the left) are ignition fed.
The second 2 rows are predominantly lighting fuses.
T.
Based on the (S290) wiring diagram extract above.
The 4 by 4 fuse layout has a letter ID system (abc etc, but its hard to see).
The number on each fuse is the rating (ie. 15amps), as per the other fuse only image above.
The first 2 vertical rows of fuses (from the left) are ignition fed.
The second 2 rows are predominantly lighting fuses.
T.
Edited by Blue 30 on Wednesday 16th October 17:25
Hello everyone!
I want to update you all. This weekend I fixed the TVR with all of your help and now everything works again!
Big thanks for all the support!
Have a nice day!
Jérôme
ps: a little of topic question but I don't know where else to ask... In a few weeks I go to London and it would be nice to visit a TVR dealer, collection or maybe a museum? Something about the history of TVR would be really interesting. Is there anything in London? Thanks for your advice!
I want to update you all. This weekend I fixed the TVR with all of your help and now everything works again!
Big thanks for all the support!
Have a nice day!
Jérôme
ps: a little of topic question but I don't know where else to ask... In a few weeks I go to London and it would be nice to visit a TVR dealer, collection or maybe a museum? Something about the history of TVR would be really interesting. Is there anything in London? Thanks for your advice!
Well done on fixing the problems.
Take the Thames Clipper commuter service down to Greenwich instead and visit the Cutty Sark. It's a good trip and if you come back after dark both sides of the River are lit up. Well worth it.
jeromeparmentier said:
.... In a few weeks I go to London and it would be nice to visit a TVR dealer, collection or maybe a museum? Something about the history of TVR would be really interesting. Is there anything in London? Thanks for your advice!
I'm afraid not. I'm not even sure where the nearest TVR specialist is to London.Take the Thames Clipper commuter service down to Greenwich instead and visit the Cutty Sark. It's a good trip and if you come back after dark both sides of the River are lit up. Well worth it.
jeromeparmentier said:
ps: a little of topic question but I don't know where else to ask... In a few weeks I go to London and it would be nice to visit a TVR dealer, collection or maybe a museum? Something about the history of TVR would be really interesting. Is there anything in London? Thanks for your advice!
Check whether there are any regional meetings in the area during your visit. There are lots of great (but non-TVR) museums in London if you're interested in that side of things.Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff