TVR S1 Fuel Sender Unit
Discussion
Hi
I have a TVR 280S on an F Reg plate. It has the 2.8 inj engine. The car is currently with my mechanic and he established that it is the fuel sender that is leaking. The main concern is where the screw is, it is leaking from that area. He is reluctant to remove fuel sender until I have sourced a replacement.
I have looked at a number of PH threads, namely 'Fuel Sender' by original poster Brettster (posted Monday 20 Jan 2014) and 'Fuel tank sender unit' by original poster beasleyneil (posted Sunday 31st January 2010). Sorry I am not that savvy with how to/putting in links.
In the Beasleyneil thread the first picture is exactly the same type of tank/ wiring arrangement.
I suppose the question is, is whether there has been any developments in the past six years since the last thread and I have a number of questions:
a) Is there repairing/renovation business out there that can refurbish the original fuel sender if I get the mechanic to take it out or does this line of business not exist? This is a long shot (as I tried looking myself) is there anyone that manufactures the said fuel sender at all?
b) Looking at the threads and internet it appears, you can't buy one off the shelf new, however you can buy a late fuel sender unit (for S2 and S3) TVR S29L 10039. Would this do, only that its has three connectors whereas mine has one in the sender unit (and I believe the other wire is the earth and attaches to side of tank). Can this be modified and/or does anyone know which connector does what? Earth, Live and maybe the third is for low warning light?
c) Would like the Brettster thread suggests, putting in an MGB GT fuel sender be a good alternative? Only thing is it has two spade connector on it, would one just be the 'earth'? and can this be linked to the earth on the side of the tank? Also, was this alternative a success, the thread finishes and I wonder how the Brettster got on with it? My initial thought was if you put a full tank of fuel in it, would it totally envelope the float (I take it it might not be a problem as its air tight and bouyant) it would still read full.
d) Lastly, the car previous to the S Series, was the Tasmins (Wedges), is it possible as a transitional measure TVR used Tasmin fuel senders? What, also about M Series fuel senders? They look similar except I do not know if they fit the hole in the tank or if the float arm is too long.
Sorry its asking a lot but your help would be appreciated. Many thanks.
I have a TVR 280S on an F Reg plate. It has the 2.8 inj engine. The car is currently with my mechanic and he established that it is the fuel sender that is leaking. The main concern is where the screw is, it is leaking from that area. He is reluctant to remove fuel sender until I have sourced a replacement.
I have looked at a number of PH threads, namely 'Fuel Sender' by original poster Brettster (posted Monday 20 Jan 2014) and 'Fuel tank sender unit' by original poster beasleyneil (posted Sunday 31st January 2010). Sorry I am not that savvy with how to/putting in links.
In the Beasleyneil thread the first picture is exactly the same type of tank/ wiring arrangement.
I suppose the question is, is whether there has been any developments in the past six years since the last thread and I have a number of questions:
a) Is there repairing/renovation business out there that can refurbish the original fuel sender if I get the mechanic to take it out or does this line of business not exist? This is a long shot (as I tried looking myself) is there anyone that manufactures the said fuel sender at all?
b) Looking at the threads and internet it appears, you can't buy one off the shelf new, however you can buy a late fuel sender unit (for S2 and S3) TVR S29L 10039. Would this do, only that its has three connectors whereas mine has one in the sender unit (and I believe the other wire is the earth and attaches to side of tank). Can this be modified and/or does anyone know which connector does what? Earth, Live and maybe the third is for low warning light?
c) Would like the Brettster thread suggests, putting in an MGB GT fuel sender be a good alternative? Only thing is it has two spade connector on it, would one just be the 'earth'? and can this be linked to the earth on the side of the tank? Also, was this alternative a success, the thread finishes and I wonder how the Brettster got on with it? My initial thought was if you put a full tank of fuel in it, would it totally envelope the float (I take it it might not be a problem as its air tight and bouyant) it would still read full.
d) Lastly, the car previous to the S Series, was the Tasmins (Wedges), is it possible as a transitional measure TVR used Tasmin fuel senders? What, also about M Series fuel senders? They look similar except I do not know if they fit the hole in the tank or if the float arm is too long.
Sorry its asking a lot but your help would be appreciated. Many thanks.
Your fuel sender looks the same as mine (1988 S1) and fixing the leak just involved knocking off the old sealing ring, cleaning the tank where it joins, and fitting a new one with a new rubber seal. I got mine from TVR Parts. It seems a bit of an odd way of sealing the tank but it works well if the tangs on the tank are OK.
Hi
Many thanks to V8s4me, Bercilac and Mentall for your responses, really good information.
I think I am going to have to bite the bullet here and take out the original.
If a) the sender doesn't fall apart when its taken out and its cleaned up, I will do as suggested and coat the rubber gasket with Hylomar on both sides. I have a new locking ring and seal on order in preparation. Hopefully this is all that's needed and I am petrol leak free. The readings were never brilliant but I have not run out of fuel yet.
b) the sender is at fault, it leaks, I will consider ordering the later sender unit if my mechanic agrees and work out which terminal does what and see if it moves the gauge when I move the float arm (obviously precautions will be taken to avoid sparks).
Many thanks to V8s4me, Bercilac and Mentall for your responses, really good information.
I think I am going to have to bite the bullet here and take out the original.
If a) the sender doesn't fall apart when its taken out and its cleaned up, I will do as suggested and coat the rubber gasket with Hylomar on both sides. I have a new locking ring and seal on order in preparation. Hopefully this is all that's needed and I am petrol leak free. The readings were never brilliant but I have not run out of fuel yet.
b) the sender is at fault, it leaks, I will consider ordering the later sender unit if my mechanic agrees and work out which terminal does what and see if it moves the gauge when I move the float arm (obviously precautions will be taken to avoid sparks).
If you need a seal and locking ring, these should fit, I don't think they have changed if at all over the years.
https://tinyurl.com/y3n3s4kn
Also link to another similar thread.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Edit:
Put my thinking head on and remembered I actually got the seal and locking ring from DMG in Oldbury cheaper than yabE.
ARA1501 locking ring
ARA1502 seal
£1.36 inc. collected.
Must be close to you Spike but they are only doing free online service at the moment.
HTH
https://tinyurl.com/y3n3s4kn
Also link to another similar thread.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Edit:
Put my thinking head on and remembered I actually got the seal and locking ring from DMG in Oldbury cheaper than yabE.
ARA1501 locking ring
ARA1502 seal
£1.36 inc. collected.
Must be close to you Spike but they are only doing free online service at the moment.
HTH
Edited by lancepar on Monday 26th October 10:13
Hi Lancepar and Phillpot, thank you for your responses.
Lancepar, thank you for the thread and it is interesting to know about DMG in Oldbury. When the covid situation is over, I'll be taking a trip up the M6 to check their place out, looks good. In the meantime thanks for the codes for the locking nut and seal.
Phillpot, cool gizmo you have made, think I or my mechanic will fabricate something similar, along your lines. Got to be better than using a screwdriver or chisel.
Lancepar, thank you for the thread and it is interesting to know about DMG in Oldbury. When the covid situation is over, I'll be taking a trip up the M6 to check their place out, looks good. In the meantime thanks for the codes for the locking nut and seal.
Phillpot, cool gizmo you have made, think I or my mechanic will fabricate something similar, along your lines. Got to be better than using a screwdriver or chisel.
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