ProTech Dampers Adjustment?
Discussion
I had the opposite problem to you I bought a set of ProTech adjustable dampers for my S3c and it was far too high at the back even when adjusted to the lowest height. Pro Tech sent me the shorter eyes and softer springs. I just changed the eyes and this solved my problem. If you get them to send you the longer eyes change them over and hopefully it will solve your problem. Hope you get it sorted it is very frustrating when a simple job becomes difficult due to lack of information and strange changes to components by TVR.
I am now in possession of two longer eyes for the rear shocks and four new valve adjustment knobs that will provide 13 clicks of adjustment from ProTech via RaceTech. The new knobs and eyes have, as of today, been installed on the damper units. Photo included. The dampers appear to be 400 series, single adjustment units with springs 9 inches long, 2.5 inches ID and spring rates of 300 lbs per inch ( as marked on the springs). Unfortunately I was unable to get a pre-load starting point from either RaceTech or ProTech. So, I opted to compress all four springs 0.5 inches which should give a pre-load value of 150 lbs per unit. The next move is to install them and adjust the springs if necessary. I'll let you know how that goes. 
All four ProTech dampers have been installed. Ride height is considerably higher, now about 200mm in the rear and 195mm in front (was 175mm, measured floor to outrigger corners). The passenger side is about 5mm higher. Just about what I wanted. I took the car for a test run and the ride heights remained the same. The ride is considerably improved. The bone jarring ride is gone, along with a lot of the rattles. And it never bottomed out, even on rough roads. It's almost civilized. The only problem now is that the car tends to oscillate once after hitting a bump. I think the damping valves need to be adjusted. They're set at eight clicks clockwise from zero. Which way should I go? 
The usual way to adjust aftermarket dampers is to wind the adjuster clockwise until it reaches the end stop. This is the hardest damping setting. Then wind the adjuster anti-clockwise the required number of clicks to soften the damping to the desired amount.
It's easy to lose track of what it's set to and surprising common for people to get muddled and adjust one damper clockwise and the other anti-clockwise by mistake and end up in a mess, To avoid that, it's best practice to go to the fully hard setting and then back to the desired setting each time you make a change.
It's easy to lose track of what it's set to and surprising common for people to get muddled and adjust one damper clockwise and the other anti-clockwise by mistake and end up in a mess, To avoid that, it's best practice to go to the fully hard setting and then back to the desired setting each time you make a change.
Ok, I started fully clockwise on the valves then backed off slightly until I felt it click. This became the zero point. It took a couple of test drives but three additional clicks anticlockwise turned to be the golden zone. I'm leaving it there and will have the front end realigned professionally in a few days. Took it to a cars and coffee event this morning and was amazed I could actually open the bonnet all the way. My next task will be to remove the exhaust system and do some refitting. I believe the rattle and metallic buzz at around 2,000rpm is due to the exhaust system having been pushed out of position from all the bashing it takes every time the car grounded out. I hate exhaust work but it seems to be in the cards.
Thanks for all the assistance.
Thanks for all the assistance.
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