Door Hinges

[Gerald-TVR]

Following a chat with Adrian Venn adrian@ his advice is that the threaded portion of the hinge bolt should be no longer than 13 - 14mm as a precaution

[HvdWeerden]

Started working to replace the plastic bushes. Took the upper hinge out (with door closed) and replaced the bush. When reftting the hinge the top M10 bobbin came loose.

I know Adrian Venn can fix this but I am in Holland so non option for me.
How can I repair the M10 bobbin. I know that it needs to be re-fibered, but what should be done exactly ? Cut a hole in the body ?

Thanks, Han

[trevbeadle]

So, my question.....
I have one of the early S1's so presume the nylon bush is an 8mm one which is apparently no longer available!
Is there any other options apart from changing the while issue to the later 10mm hinge setup?
Anyone tried removing the worn 8mm bush and re-sleeving it with something to take out the wear?
I know the external dimensions are the same with the 8 and 10 mm bushes (and length?), so how about using a new 10mm bush and fabricating a new bolt with a 10mm shank but an 8mm thread?


Trev

Edited by trevbeadle on Friday 25th February 10:03

[Gerald-TVR]

trevbeadle said:

So, my question.....
I have one of the early S1's so presume the nylon bush is an 8mm one which is apparently no longer available!
Is there any other options apart from changing the while issue to the later 10mm hinge setup?
Anyone tried removing the worn 8mm bush and re-sleeving it with something to take out the wear?
I know the external dimensions are the same with the 8 and 10 mm bushes (and length?), so how about using a new 10mm bush and fabricating a new bolt with a 10mm shank but an 8mm thread?


Trev

Edited by trevbeadle on Friday 25th February 10:03

I havent seen a 8mm hinge so am not sure that the only differences are the bush and bolt however if that is the case then it would be easier to have a new bush turned in brass (say) than have new bolts made. But its possible you might be able to find a shoulder bolt on the electric interweb. Arian Venn Exactly TVR I know makes his own bushes if he is repairing/replacing a hinge. He's a very helpful chap why not give him a ring

[GreenV8S]

trevbeadle said:

So, my question.....
I have one of the early S1's so presume the nylon bush is an 8mm one which is apparently no longer available!

You can buy nylon stock easily enough and it's easy to work with simple hand tools. What's to stop you making your own? If that's looking too much like hard work I suppose there must be some 10mm OD tube thin enough to slip over an 8mm bolt and be glued in place. Both options far easier than making your own custom stepped bolts.

[trevbeadle]

Gerald-TVR

you say in your opening post in this thread "However the outside diameter of both the M10 and M8 bushes are identical". If you can provide me with the dimensions of the bush, I have sourced nylon rod (as GreenV8S suggested) so could have a go at fabricating an 8mm internal bore one!

Thanks

Edited by trevbeadle on Friday 25th February 15:20

Edited by trevbeadle on Friday 25th February 15:21

[Gerald-TVR]

trevbeadle said:

Gerald-TVR

you say in your opening post in this thread "However the outside diameter of both the M10 and M8 bushes are identical". If you can provide me with the dimensions of the bush, I have sourced nylon rod (as GreenV8S suggested) so could have a go at fabricating an 8mm internal bore one!

I was told that they were identical by someone I know and trust, if you drop me a PM I will send dimensions to you, also if you let me have your address I can let you have an old bush to look at. But as with all information please use at your qwn risk

[trevbeadle]

Magic! Thanks,
I now have someone who has offered to turn one in his lathe to an o/d, i/d and length if we have the dimensions/old item to copy from, so that really has been a great help from all you contributors!
Thanks again,

Trev

[tel595]

Has any one re-bonded the hinge bobbins into the body, top and bottom?
Just removed my drivers door and the bobbins 'crunched' out as the bolts were seized solid in the bobbins.. I had a feeling they weren't coming out without a fight and know they will need to be re-fitted, just wondered if anyone has done it and if there's any tips??
Cheers..

[tel595]

Pic of the top one...

[Gerald-TVR]

Not done the job myself but the length of the threaded hinge bolt in the upper bobbin is critical. I have a drawing of the hinges available if you PM me your email address.

BTW are you interested in the indicators only got one pair of amber left.

Norman

[Griffinr]

It occurs to me looking at Normans drawings and the pulled out bobbins from the fibreglass, that if the bolt refuses to come out then the best option for replacing the bushes in the hinges would be to saw the head off the hinge bolt (before you have damaged the fibreglass) and thread the hinge off. Obviously not an option if the bolts knackered or you need the door off for other reasons.
Rob.

[tel595]

Griffinr said:

It occurs to me looking at Normans drawings and the pulled out bobbins from the fibreglass, that if the bolt refuses to come out then the best option for replacing the bushes in the hinges would be to saw the head off the hinge bolt (before you have damaged the fibreglass) and thread the hinge off. Obviously not an option if the bolts knackered or you need the door off for other reasons.
Rob.

As soon as I started to turn the bolt, I realised it had seized in the bush which in turn, caused the bobbin to become the pivot. The bobbin has been steadily wearing an oval hole in the body (lower one), and the top one just spun as soon as I tried to remove it..
I've only had the car a week or so but had to do this as the first job as the crunching and clunking of the door was unbearable. The car came with a new set of bolts and bushes which were bought from Classic World Racing Ltd. in Redditch so hope they're ok for the job..
Plenty of copperslip when it all goes back together!

[jmccrary]

Not to bring this thread back from the dead...again, but I was able to find a bolt that has a 10mm shank with an 8mm threads...going to install after dinner...I hope it all works!

[swimmer27]

It does occur to me that replacement sets in stainless could be useful so if anyone is interested I could price up replacement sets. Obviously I would approach TVR Car Parts for bobbins/bushes.

I'm sure if kits were available especially in stainless this would take a lot of the guess work out of it for those of us not to sure what to purchase.
Both the doors on my S2 have dropped to the point they are rubbing on the sills.

[Loach1]

I just ordered some spiffy new stripes for my S1, so I thought I should have a go at sorting out the sag on the passenger door.....

The cause of the droop is a loose top bobbin, and I'm not sure how to fix it. It's very slight, but it equates to 1/2" or so at the handle end of the door. Is there a way to fix it without removing and replacing with a new bobbin? Maybe force epoxy through the tiny gaps with a spreader? Or try and go in from the top and squeeze epoxy in?

I'm starting to regret messing with it - weather is glorious today and I decided to break my car!

[Loach1]

Ok, I decided to push as much epoxy as possible in the small gaps around the bobbin after flushing it out with electronics cleaner. I'm going to leave it overnight to cure, then re-fit the door. I did saw off the upper bolt head to reduce the damage done - great tip from one of you guys! Hopefully I'll be cruising around tomorrow...

[S2Mike]

I am poised with a tube of epoxy type glue ready to inject around the bobbin, just like yourself, please let us know the outcome.

[magpies]

is there any way of lubricating the top hinge?

[phillpot]

I thought A was the bobbin, fibre glassed into the body?

B is the nylon "top hat" (in theory the bit that wears) that should be a tight fit in bracket C

When I had my hinges apart I coated the big pivot bolt in silicone grease before re-assembling, hopefully that will stop it seizing in either the bobbin or the top hat.





Just curious, where are you squeezing in the epoxy?