LT77 Gearbox oil
Discussion
TV8 said:
Hi Adam,
It is the oil recommended in the link below your question and this reply. Very pleased with the results of a simple change
Just for reference (in case the link breaks) Difflock Evolution 1 Fully Synthetic Gear Oil - 1 litreIt is the oil recommended in the link below your question and this reply. Very pleased with the results of a simple change
[S031-3-60034].
It will be interesting to compare notes in the winter....
Adam,
I have used Redline Lightweight Shockproof Gear Oil for many years - on the recemmendation of a TVR independent who successfully prepared winning cars for the Tasmin Racing Series.
Available from Demon Tweeks (and no doubt others)
[Is is blue so it is also easy to spot any leaks.]
Rgds
Hamish
I have used Redline Lightweight Shockproof Gear Oil for many years - on the recemmendation of a TVR independent who successfully prepared winning cars for the Tasmin Racing Series.
Available from Demon Tweeks (and no doubt others)
[Is is blue so it is also easy to spot any leaks.]
Rgds
Hamish
Well I've finally replaced the ATF with Mobil 1 plus molly and sadly it's still useless going into 3rd gear, probably slightly worse. So, it appears that my freshly rebuilt gearbox is going to have to come out. The Mobil 1 plus molly does make the box feel somewhat smoother when changing between the other gears when compared to ATF though.
If I take the car up to 3000 RPM in 3rd, which is about 50MPH, put the box into neutral, bring the clutch up, revs to 4000, clutch down and go back into 3rd and crunch. That’s only a difference of 1000 RPM so the syncro doesn't have much work to do does it? It must be made of chocolate! Much below 4000 RPM you can go into 3rd no problem.
I wish I'd modified the rear gearbox support when I had the body off so that I could unbolt it and drop the gearbox out now.
If I take the car up to 3000 RPM in 3rd, which is about 50MPH, put the box into neutral, bring the clutch up, revs to 4000, clutch down and go back into 3rd and crunch. That’s only a difference of 1000 RPM so the syncro doesn't have much work to do does it? It must be made of chocolate! Much below 4000 RPM you can go into 3rd no problem.
I wish I'd modified the rear gearbox support when I had the body off so that I could unbolt it and drop the gearbox out now.
I'm hoping so. The trouble is that it was rebuilt 2 years ago and has been stood waiting for me to finish off all the other work before putting the car back on the road. I've contacted CTS who rebuilt the box and they insisted that I try the box on ATF, which I did after initially running it on SMX, so I'll get back in touch with them today.
simon_h said:
I'm hoping so. The trouble is that it was rebuilt 2 years ago and has been stood waiting for me to finish off all the other work before putting the car back on the road. I've contacted CTS who rebuilt the box and they insisted that I try the box on ATF, which I did after initially running it on SMX, so I'll get back in touch with them today.
Interesting issue Simon - I had my box rebuilt by them nearly 18 months ago and had selection problems with 1st & Reverse. I have since changed over to Mobil 1 which has made an improvement. I'm of the opinion that the box needs more miles on it plus the clutch slave may need looking at with another bleed session. I was told to use ATF by them too so I'm going to wait and see if adding more miles with anothe clutch bleed will do the trick - not before however, I get my suspension sorted out courtesy of SH his illfamed front coilover conversion. The saga continues....GV said:
Interesting issue Simon - I had my box rebuilt by them nearly 18 months ago and had selection problems with 1st & Reverse. I have since changed over to Mobil 1 which has made an improvement. I'm of the opinion that the box needs more miles on it plus the clutch slave may need looking at with another bleed session. I was told to use ATF by them too so I'm going to wait and see if adding more miles with anothe clutch bleed will do the trick
Good luck with the gearbox I hope it improves with a few more miles on it.CTS rebuilt mine 2 years ago and don't seem too helpful now.
I've spoken to a local gearbox specialist and they seem very sceptical that my gearbox problem is likely to improve by putting more miles on the box but I'll give it a little while longer before I pull it out again. They also confirmed that they had come across some pretty poor quality parts for the LT77 so I assume that we may be a victim of that.
So - I think it's almost winter now (well the central heating is on...) and we've had a few cold mornings. So far, I haven't had any crunching at all from cold with the Mobil 1 - most impressive! I guess the viscosity doesn't change very much.
I must have put 3 or 4 thousand miles ont he box now - not problems at all - and it even put up with a totally failed clutch for a few miles (the pipe broke) which is impressive.
I must have put 3 or 4 thousand miles ont he box now - not problems at all - and it even put up with a totally failed clutch for a few miles (the pipe broke) which is impressive.
Havent been able to drive mine that much lately but did go on the tunnel run on Sunday and it was pretty cold first thing. Very pleased to say that the gearbox was as good as it was in the warm weather, though to be fair, I think I have noticed the main improvement with the difflock oil when it is very hot.
Sounds like two good options!
The sun is shining now, so I am off out in the car!
Sounds like two good options!
The sun is shining now, so I am off out in the car!
carsy said:
Still running the Mobil 1 in mine. 
Apologies for rekindling an old post but I'm just looking to atempt to solve a problem with the LT77 in my cobra with this Mobil/Molyslip 'tweak', just looking for clarification on one point, is the Mobil 1 simply the engine oil or is there a gearbox specific variant of this?I'm presuming everyone is still happy with the Mobil/Moly treatment, not heard any negatives.
By the way my problem is a slight 'graunch' when going UP into third, seems strange to me, gearchange issues in my experience are normally when changing down.
CGCobra said:
Apologies for rekindling an old post but I'm just looking to atempt to solve a problem with the LT77 in my cobra with this Mobil/Molyslip 'tweak', just looking for clarification on one point, is the Mobil 1 simply the engine oil or is there a gearbox specific variant of this?
I'm presuming everyone is still happy with the Mobil/Moly treatment, not heard any negatives.
By the way my problem is a slight 'graunch' when going UP into third, seems strange to me, gearchange issues in my experience are normally when changing down.
Have a read of this re setting things up.I'm presuming everyone is still happy with the Mobil/Moly treatment, not heard any negatives.
By the way my problem is a slight 'graunch' when going UP into third, seems strange to me, gearchange issues in my experience are normally when changing down.
http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/remoteissues.html
adam quantrill said:
Yeah it's the standard 0W engine oil. Although you only need 2l it's usually better value as a 4l 'can' then you have enough for an oil change in a few years time. And yes, I am still happy with mine.
Thanks for the quick response Adam, seems strange to use engine oil in a gearbox, thought gear oil had special EP ingredients, of course most 4 stroke motorcycles use the same oil for engine and 'box and they're not lacking in performance. I wonder if a motorcycle specific oil would be worth trying, big advantage with that is I can get the bigger can and have spare for topping up my bike. I'm thinking Castrol. Molyslip seems to be sold in 65ml tubes, do I use a full one of those?
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