Rose Joint Drop Links anyone?

[GV]

KKson said:

Right gents, Steve Heath style drop links now totally refurbished. As above the two rose joints are off the shelf from McGill Motorsport. Large joint is M16 thread and 16mm hole part number SIK16T. Smaller rose joint is M8 part number SAK8T. if you are making from scratch then adapter to join the two joints together is an M16 by 25mm high tensile bolt drilled and tapped to M8. Brackets to fit to suspension arm are machined, drilled and tapped HEX bar. Total cost for the four joints was £30.
Well pleased with total lack of rattle.

Excellent Job....will make a set up if need be.

[62stevew]

I‘ve just been directed to this thread & have a couple of questions

1) hitensile bolt ? So not 8.8. do I need to go to 12.9 ?

2) what Dimension was the lower hex bar ? Holding the m8 rose joint

3) how did the hold up in the last 4 years ? - last reply to this thread was 4 years ago

TIA
Steve

[BlueWedgy]

The shear strength "v" brittleness is the governing factor. The one you quote would be more brittle and I think not good as far as I know for that application, It is likely used in clamping applications, whereas generally, suspension components are in shear.
There are loads of differing opinions on this, have a read of this, as one example:

https://www.whichcar.com.au/features/diy/guide-to-...

I am sure there are loads of other sites to look at as well and am sure that some will contradict one another, but the consensus will be the outcome.

[KKson]

Hi Steve, just measured the hex bar and it's 22mm across the flats. 're the high tensile bolt I'd go for the normal grade which should be fine. The refurbished drop links have now been in the car for four years and still behaving with no rattles. Cheers

[Steve_D]

62stevew said:

...........Hi tensile bolt ? So not 8.8. do I need to go to 12.9 ?...........

8.8 is a hi tensile bolt and will be plenty strong/tough enough for your application.

Steve

[adam quantrill]

When my latest big joint arrived it was M14.

I ended up using an M14 bolt, but just the threaded part, drilled and tapped for M8, and loctited in.
This gave a bit more room for the smaller M8 rose joint to adjust.