280i temparature
Discussion
Morning gents,
I've probably put 1000 miles on the car since the rebuild. One thing I've noticed is the temp needle routinely sits between just above half way (90C) and approaching the 3/4 mark (no temp marking) on the gauge. I can't remember where the needle used to sit before the rebuild so wondered if other owners could advise where their temp needle sits please?
During the rebuild I had the rad professionally flushed and pressure tested, I replaced the water pump with a new one, replaced all hoses of course, and also bypassed the heater matrix completely. Alternator/water pump belt is tensioned correctly.
The fan is just the original viscous job with no shroud etc, which makes idling at the lights an interesting experience as the temp climbs due to no airflow and fan slowing down with engine speed.
Given it gets hot here (37C today) I would like to ensure the engine is looked after and the cooling system is as good as it can be.
Any thoughts?
I've probably put 1000 miles on the car since the rebuild. One thing I've noticed is the temp needle routinely sits between just above half way (90C) and approaching the 3/4 mark (no temp marking) on the gauge. I can't remember where the needle used to sit before the rebuild so wondered if other owners could advise where their temp needle sits please?
During the rebuild I had the rad professionally flushed and pressure tested, I replaced the water pump with a new one, replaced all hoses of course, and also bypassed the heater matrix completely. Alternator/water pump belt is tensioned correctly.
The fan is just the original viscous job with no shroud etc, which makes idling at the lights an interesting experience as the temp climbs due to no airflow and fan slowing down with engine speed.
Given it gets hot here (37C today) I would like to ensure the engine is looked after and the cooling system is as good as it can be.
Any thoughts?
Grady said:
What a useful idea! Just ordered one.
On a related note, I tested several mechanical (cooking) thermometers by dipping them in a pot of boiling water on the stove. I then tried my 2 infrared thermometers and they both read the same but way low ~150F, not ~212F.
Those IR thermometers don't work too well when pointed into water or at a shiny surface.On a related note, I tested several mechanical (cooking) thermometers by dipping them in a pot of boiling water on the stove. I then tried my 2 infrared thermometers and they both read the same but way low ~150F, not ~212F.
The best way to test car 'stats is to put them in the pan and heat from cold, they should open gradually and be fully open a good while before the water boils... and then shut gradually as the water cools.
A very quick scan of the web uncovers loads of aftermarket fan/shroud combos. Given my air filter intake is right behind the rad a shroud might make a lot of sense.
I can see this is going to escalate into a new custom aluminium rad/thermatic fan with a dash switch override and shroud....then I could nose mount it to reduce engine bay temp.....
I can see this is going to escalate into a new custom aluminium rad/thermatic fan with a dash switch override and shroud....then I could nose mount it to reduce engine bay temp.....
Another possible -
The Stewart Warner temp gauge in my 82 DHC ALWAYS read high, about 2/3 of the scale when normal temp.
It wasn't overheating at all - I couldn't get the temp sender out as it was stuck fast (and looks like corroded in...).
I put a resistor (10 ohms) in series with the gauge so it read 1/2 way. It's cheating, but it works.
The Stewart Warner temp gauge in my 82 DHC ALWAYS read high, about 2/3 of the scale when normal temp.
It wasn't overheating at all - I couldn't get the temp sender out as it was stuck fast (and looks like corroded in...).
I put a resistor (10 ohms) in series with the gauge so it read 1/2 way. It's cheating, but it works.
Hi Toby
My gauge used to read 280 on the 280i..The irony..That was because I didn't fit the correct sender to gauge...Anyhow I checked the operating temp with a laser pointer thermometer and a probe thermometer in the header tank, I had an 86 deg thermostat and when the system was fully circulated it was around 90 degrees, by 94 the fan would kick in.
Personally I would use a recommended expansion tank cap, I believe its around 16lbs.
My gauge used to read 280 on the 280i..The irony..That was because I didn't fit the correct sender to gauge...Anyhow I checked the operating temp with a laser pointer thermometer and a probe thermometer in the header tank, I had an 86 deg thermostat and when the system was fully circulated it was around 90 degrees, by 94 the fan would kick in.
Personally I would use a recommended expansion tank cap, I believe its around 16lbs.
jeff m2 said:
viscous fan ...no shroud.
The "no shroud" is the problem, assuming your fan is still good. (test the fan with a hefty pair of welding gloves
)
With no shroud the fan will create turbulence and not enough air in the desired direction.
Defo....And if your air intake is as original...pulling hot air straight from the rad then a modification is easily affordable/possible...The "no shroud" is the problem, assuming your fan is still good. (test the fan with a hefty pair of welding gloves
)With no shroud the fan will create turbulence and not enough air in the desired direction.
So I took the car to my mechanic/auto electrician for a couple of minor things and discussed an electric fan to replace the viscous. Left the keys and asked the receptionist to call me with a quote for the thermatic fan instal.
Didn't hear for a few days which was a tad unusual, so I dropped in after work on Wednesday. "should be finished tomorrow" he said. "we still need to fit the temp sensor in the radiator.
The message about getting a quote seemingly didn't make it to the workshop and I now have a electrically cooled wedge. Very nice job it is too. Cuts in at 87 although the temp gauge reads maybe 91-92.
Job done.
Didn't hear for a few days which was a tad unusual, so I dropped in after work on Wednesday. "should be finished tomorrow" he said. "we still need to fit the temp sensor in the radiator.
The message about getting a quote seemingly didn't make it to the workshop and I now have a electrically cooled wedge. Very nice job it is too. Cuts in at 87 although the temp gauge reads maybe 91-92.
Job done.
440Interceptor said:
I now have a electrically cooled wedge. Very nice job it is too. Cuts in at 87 although the temp gauge reads maybe 91-92.
Job done.
Happy days mate...although 87 sounds a bit cool TBH....The thermostat should be rated for 86 so ideally the fan should kick on at around 90-92..any thermostatic sensors should always go "Hot side" which is where it goes back into the engine and not to the rad....Job done.
All good though...
Ziga
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