More rear suspension help
Discussion
After replacing some of the rear bushings, I noticed that the right rear tire tips in quite a bit.
I didn't replace the trailing arm pin or bushing but took these pictures.![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/fh7IHysu.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/gsV0ONMX" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/gsV0ONMX.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/lOZet1Sr" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/lOZet1Sr.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/THhU6U1w" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/THhU6U1w.jpg)
I couldn't get a great picture of the right side where the bolt goes thru the bushing but it is definitely not centered.
Would this be the main cause of the top of the wheel being tilted in?
To me it seems that if this bushing being bad it would affect the "toe-in, toe-out" or am I missing something here?
Appreciate the excellent help!
I didn't replace the trailing arm pin or bushing but took these pictures.
I couldn't get a great picture of the right side where the bolt goes thru the bushing but it is definitely not centered.
Would this be the main cause of the top of the wheel being tilted in?
To me it seems that if this bushing being bad it would affect the "toe-in, toe-out" or am I missing something here?
Appreciate the excellent help!
If the springs are sagging a bit, the camber increases on the rear, leading to that 'leaning in' appearance. It's a feature of the way the trailing arm
suspension works. Doesn't matter how many washers you put in the arms (which DOES adjust toe-in), it will still look that way.
to get parallel (or close) you need the rear end to ride higher - either adjustable spring platforms or new springs or 'helpers' ...
In a lot of ways its behaviour is same as the Triumph rear end as on 2000/2500 saloons and Stags.
Some here have suggested that the shims in the driveshafts make a difference, but it's tiny....
Confirm by jacking the diff up slightly and watch rear wheels.
suspension works. Doesn't matter how many washers you put in the arms (which DOES adjust toe-in), it will still look that way.
to get parallel (or close) you need the rear end to ride higher - either adjustable spring platforms or new springs or 'helpers' ...
In a lot of ways its behaviour is same as the Triumph rear end as on 2000/2500 saloons and Stags.
Some here have suggested that the shims in the driveshafts make a difference, but it's tiny....
Confirm by jacking the diff up slightly and watch rear wheels.
Edited by RCK974X on Saturday 14th October 00:28
See how many fingers you can put in between the top of the tyre and the wheel arch, that is usually a fair measure of one side sagging.
I think Andy is right jack up the rear and see if it looks better. If the wheel is cambered in it will be twisting the trailing arm anyway and make the pin sit at a funny angle.
I think Andy is right jack up the rear and see if it looks better. If the wheel is cambered in it will be twisting the trailing arm anyway and make the pin sit at a funny angle.
And also what Zig said - bent pins seem to be pretty common - one in mine was bent and bush knackered.
Have a careful look (although it's a bugger to get a good look at it).
I still think the pin & bush design itself is a bit dodgy - force resolves into the thinner part of the pin right where it's turned down, so it bends.
Have a careful look (although it's a bugger to get a good look at it).
I still think the pin & bush design itself is a bit dodgy - force resolves into the thinner part of the pin right where it's turned down, so it bends.
The pin does look slightly bent (although that may be the photo) and that stack of washers could be the cause. You need something more substantial to support the pin. Your photo shows you already have some of the correct spacers but maybe you can source some more?
Maybe try and source some of THESE. At M12 they go from 9.5mm to 11mm thick. The outer diameter of the 9.5mm thick one is 50mm which is about what you need.
Are you sure you have the correct shouldered pin? Here's a photo of mine...
The left end of this pin measures 15mm and the the other end is measures 10mm but they could be imperial sizes.
Maybe try and source some of THESE. At M12 they go from 9.5mm to 11mm thick. The outer diameter of the 9.5mm thick one is 50mm which is about what you need.
Are you sure you have the correct shouldered pin? Here's a photo of mine...
The left end of this pin measures 15mm and the the other end is measures 10mm but they could be imperial sizes.
Pretty sure mine was metric 15 and 10mm (or was it 16mm and 10 ?).
I had a new pin made from an HT bolt at a local machine shop. I reckon it was quite a bit cheaper than ordering one from UK, and then and waiting, and waiting....
To me it would make a LOT more sense to have the same diameter pin (or bolt) all the way along. This would be easy simply with a bigger tube in the bush, but I
wasn't able to find a suitable bush.
See also threads in here about various mods made to the bush end to make it stronger (a cage around bush, and replacing it in various ways).
I had a new pin made from an HT bolt at a local machine shop. I reckon it was quite a bit cheaper than ordering one from UK, and then and waiting, and waiting....
To me it would make a LOT more sense to have the same diameter pin (or bolt) all the way along. This would be easy simply with a bigger tube in the bush, but I
wasn't able to find a suitable bush.
See also threads in here about various mods made to the bush end to make it stronger (a cage around bush, and replacing it in various ways).
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