280i clunk at the rear.
Discussion
could be anything from a loose bolt right up to a knackered diff or gearbox.
DON'T PANIC yet. chances are it's just something loose.
I would go through in order -
jack up rear and check driveshafts (turn each wheel backwards and forwards, in neutral and in gear)
Check diff bolts tight (and none missing)
check all the bushes, mounts, bolts in rear susp and mounts, shockers etc. yes, the whole lot.
rattle/move everything.
check all flanges tight.
then check gearbox mounts (rubbers can tear) and engine mounts.
then check for rubbing or loose exhaust pipes.
THEN - check there's nothing loose in the boot (Yes, really ! Not me, but one of my old mates once turned up with a weird clunk, and it turned out to be the jack wasn't clamped properly to spare wheel - not a TVR, and funny, but...well.....it happens)
and I suppose check the chassis hasn't cracked or bracket broken off ....
Should be in there somewhere.....
THEN you can think about broken diff or gbox - hopefully you won't get there.
gbox - type 9 (5 speeders) can start to clunk when drive taken up, it's typically a worn layshaft, which they have a reputation for....
UJs should have no visible movement or 'slack' when you turn the shaft back and forwards. If you see ANY play, the UJ needs to be replaced. (driveshafts and propshaft) OOps - also check there's no 'stiff' bit when you turn the shafts - can also happen with wear
DON'T PANIC yet. chances are it's just something loose.
I would go through in order -
jack up rear and check driveshafts (turn each wheel backwards and forwards, in neutral and in gear)
Check diff bolts tight (and none missing)
check all the bushes, mounts, bolts in rear susp and mounts, shockers etc. yes, the whole lot.
rattle/move everything.
check all flanges tight.
then check gearbox mounts (rubbers can tear) and engine mounts.
then check for rubbing or loose exhaust pipes.
THEN - check there's nothing loose in the boot (Yes, really ! Not me, but one of my old mates once turned up with a weird clunk, and it turned out to be the jack wasn't clamped properly to spare wheel - not a TVR, and funny, but...well.....it happens)
and I suppose check the chassis hasn't cracked or bracket broken off ....
Should be in there somewhere.....
THEN you can think about broken diff or gbox - hopefully you won't get there.
gbox - type 9 (5 speeders) can start to clunk when drive taken up, it's typically a worn layshaft, which they have a reputation for....
UJs should have no visible movement or 'slack' when you turn the shaft back and forwards. If you see ANY play, the UJ needs to be replaced. (driveshafts and propshaft) OOps - also check there's no 'stiff' bit when you turn the shafts - can also happen with wear
Edited by RCK974X on Thursday 19th October 20:37
I had a similar issue and followed all the tests like jacking up the rear and loading it up etc, but still could not diagnose it properly. The symptoms were when the car was under load - 1st or second gear putting foot down and also worse with a passenger (don't tell the wife...) and am intermittent clicking / slight knocking but getting faster as the wheels turned faster. Mine is an S3 but i think its the same.
In the end, I decided to replace both CV joints on the nearside as its a quick and easy job and it would at least rule it out! Found these online -http://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/tvr-s3-2.9-petrol-1991/product/cv-joints-510/cv-joint/JR27 and solved the issue easily.
It cost me £30 including VAT and postage for 2 - bargain - and also has a 2 year warranty.
I did take the old CV joints apart and there was definite wear in one, the other wear was starting.
One other thing, you will need Torx sockets and Halfords do a set for a very reasonable price with a lifetime guarantee.
Hope this helps!
In the end, I decided to replace both CV joints on the nearside as its a quick and easy job and it would at least rule it out! Found these online -http://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/tvr-s3-2.9-petrol-1991/product/cv-joints-510/cv-joint/JR27 and solved the issue easily.
It cost me £30 including VAT and postage for 2 - bargain - and also has a 2 year warranty.
I did take the old CV joints apart and there was definite wear in one, the other wear was starting.
One other thing, you will need Torx sockets and Halfords do a set for a very reasonable price with a lifetime guarantee.
Hope this helps!
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