Rover V8 EFI wont run pulling my hair out now!!!
Discussion
Globs said:
There's a glitch in the matrix.
Deja vu?Probably was a good idea to repeat the whole reply until it sinks in - Jensen (if that's your name) you don't need the starter motor to perform this test (just slap some tape around the dangling wires to stop it shorting.
And - it will only take 5 minutes to perform so no danger of getting cold fingers. ;^)
Hi
Not sure what test you are talking about but if it's the throttle butterfly test as said in my earlier post I do not hear a series of clicks at the injectors only type of clicking noise I hear is from the throttle return springs.
Jensencars came from earlier days when I had an interceptor
Not sure what test you are talking about but if it's the throttle butterfly test as said in my earlier post I do not hear a series of clicks at the injectors only type of clicking noise I hear is from the throttle return springs.
Jensencars came from earlier days when I had an interceptor
Cheers I may have missed the reply.
So now we are getting somewhere, the ECU or wiring is defective.
How about the throttle pot middle connection, when you rotate the throttle smoothly does it rise gradually from the "closed" voltage (0.325V) to around 4 volts?
Ahh the old Interceptor, did you have a Mk I or a Mk II?
So now we are getting somewhere, the ECU or wiring is defective.
How about the throttle pot middle connection, when you rotate the throttle smoothly does it rise gradually from the "closed" voltage (0.325V) to around 4 volts?
Ahh the old Interceptor, did you have a Mk I or a Mk II?
Mk11 and about11 miles to the gallon
I have also done all the electrical injector test put on earlier and the wiring all checks out and the voltages have not bridged thermostats sensor yet, but when cranking..firing there is smell of petrol but maybe not enough I have heard that today's fuel can gum up the injectors when left is has been off the road for 18 months fuel in now is fresh tho,,
I have also done all the electrical injector test put on earlier and the wiring all checks out and the voltages have not bridged thermostats sensor yet, but when cranking..firing there is smell of petrol but maybe not enough I have heard that today's fuel can gum up the injectors when left is has been off the road for 18 months fuel in now is fresh tho,,
You also said you heard clicking when applying manual voltage (yes?)
So I reckon the ECU isn't driving propoerly for whatever reason and I'd recommend borrowing a known good one to see if it will run.
Unfortunately the only regular seller on Ebay charges silly money for them now (and they are probably for a Rangey too).
11mpg is very good my mate's old one only did about 8 I think! But it was a Mk 1, complete with lead filler in the doors in case it wasn't already heavy enough....
So I reckon the ECU isn't driving propoerly for whatever reason and I'd recommend borrowing a known good one to see if it will run.
Unfortunately the only regular seller on Ebay charges silly money for them now (and they are probably for a Rangey too).
11mpg is very good my mate's old one only did about 8 I think! But it was a Mk 1, complete with lead filler in the doors in case it wasn't already heavy enough....
mk1fan said:
I know of a spare working one. But agree that Mark Adams can repair. Python Racing may alos be able to help with repair as well. Paul Smith is another but I'm not sure if he is still trading.
Mark Adams is superb however extremely busy. I've waited 2 years for my half day rolling road session. Well worth it in the end though.No point in repairing until you know it's broke though - borrow one first. Or alternatively find someone local with a running wedge and stick your one in it, if it immediately shows the same problems then it's a good indicator.
I have a few spare ECU's but have not tested them yet, so I would need to do so before lending out. I can do solder reflow for a few beer tokens...
I have a few spare ECU's but have not tested them yet, so I would need to do so before lending out. I can do solder reflow for a few beer tokens...
Hi
Is it anything like this?...After loads of testing everything seemed to check out..I even found that the Cold Start Injector ..(CSI)..wires were back to front...still nothing once corrected...when I tested its function no fuel came out of it, I did not fancy my last resort which would of been splitting the loom to find the issue..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvL4sn1qS5M&t=...
After a long discussion with a knowledgeable friend I hooked up a spare cold start injector with a good length of wire soldered on...Connected it up to a cigarette lighter socket via a bullet connector that I robbed from an old plug in light...and this was the result.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQUTblbqmvA
It was also realised at my last MOT in November that my mixture was horribly lean..I thought that maybe this was also the cause of the bad starting, however once sorted the starting issue was only marginally better...so now I plug in the bullet connector...start the car and straight away remove the plug...it only needs a few seconds of fuel to kick it in to life....
It is said that the CSI does nothing...I disagree..yes it aids cold starting but the initial seconds worth of fuel makes a huge difference to mine.
Might be worth checking to see if any fuel squirts out of the cold start injector from cold...I know I have a underlying issue somewhere but it was an easy fix and a great relief after the months and months of hammering the engine and all its components...
Hope this helps
Cheers
Ziga
Is it anything like this?...After loads of testing everything seemed to check out..I even found that the Cold Start Injector ..(CSI)..wires were back to front...still nothing once corrected...when I tested its function no fuel came out of it, I did not fancy my last resort which would of been splitting the loom to find the issue..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvL4sn1qS5M&t=...
After a long discussion with a knowledgeable friend I hooked up a spare cold start injector with a good length of wire soldered on...Connected it up to a cigarette lighter socket via a bullet connector that I robbed from an old plug in light...and this was the result.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQUTblbqmvA
It was also realised at my last MOT in November that my mixture was horribly lean..I thought that maybe this was also the cause of the bad starting, however once sorted the starting issue was only marginally better...so now I plug in the bullet connector...start the car and straight away remove the plug...it only needs a few seconds of fuel to kick it in to life....
It is said that the CSI does nothing...I disagree..yes it aids cold starting but the initial seconds worth of fuel makes a huge difference to mine.
Might be worth checking to see if any fuel squirts out of the cold start injector from cold...I know I have a underlying issue somewhere but it was an easy fix and a great relief after the months and months of hammering the engine and all its components...
Hope this helps
Cheers
Ziga
GV said:
Carbs - no messing with crappy and unreliable not to mention ageing Efi.
I've met a few carbs that have been total b
ds and highly unreliable, not to mention they rarely fuel correctly which is why EFI gives you more power AND economy.Once you understand EFI and get a working system they are very good, plus we're not even sure it is the EFI yet. They are not super difficult, you just need to get all the parts working: pressurised fuel rail, injectors, sensors and ECU.
I can see that carbs seem a tempting option in testing times, but compared to a working EFI they're crap
mrzigazaga said:
It is said that the CSI does nothing...I disagree..yes it aids cold starting but the initial seconds worth of fuel makes a huge difference to mine.
The CSI does do something - it adds extra fuel when the ambient temperature [of the engine] is low. It is a simple circuit that has one switch - on the 350i flapper a thermotime switch next to the CTS on the inlet manifold. This switch then connects to the CSI. There is nothing more to the circuit. Depending on what the ambient temperature is, determines the time the CSI fires. Above a set temperature the CSI is not fired.This ambient temperature is not the same as an engine being 'cold'.
Manually activating the CSI is the same as squirting Ezzee Start in it.
By comparrison, Wendy starts fine with or without the CSI connected.
I do wonder if you have an airleak somewhere Zig? I don't recall if this was discussed at anytime.
mk1fan said:
The CSI does do something - it adds extra fuel when the ambient temperature [of the engine] is low. It is a simple circuit that has one switch - on the 350i flapper a thermotime switch next to the CTS on the inlet manifold. This switch then connects to the CSI. There is nothing more to the circuit. Depending on what the ambient temperature is, determines the time the CSI fires. Above a set temperature the CSI is not fired.
This ambient temperature is not the same as an engine being 'cold'.
Manually activating the CSI is the same as squirting Ezzee Start in it.
By comparrison, Wendy starts fine with or without the CSI connected.
I do wonder if you have an airleak somewhere Zig? I don't recall if this was discussed at anytime.
I have checked all air hoses...I do plan on replacing them at some point soon as they were on the car when i bought it and I do have to keep an eye on the Extra Air Valve fitment as its a fairly tight bend...ASH...sorry...Auto Silicone Hoses sell them....and the flame trap ones...This ambient temperature is not the same as an engine being 'cold'.
Manually activating the CSI is the same as squirting Ezzee Start in it.
By comparrison, Wendy starts fine with or without the CSI connected.
I do wonder if you have an airleak somewhere Zig? I don't recall if this was discussed at anytime.
https://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwi...
Dont really get any "Hunting"...but occasionally she cuts out when coming to a stop shortly after warming up from cool/cold...Ill sus it one day...
mk1fan said:
Could be a leak between the inlet manifold, engine and plenum.
The plenum is due an internal clean and was going to reseal with some of this instead of the blue hylomar...https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&...
New starter fitted spins over much happier now,
Tried Eze start still popping and banging about and can smell petrol, altering dizzy does not improve it much stops firing all together,,
Removed dizzy again stripped and checked as best as poss getting 3.6k across pick up plug, reset air gap .3mm [new module fitted last week] put back in seemed to fire better, persisted with it eventually runs all be it very rough, adjusting timing does not do much it pops back through inlet manifold,pinks coughs and spits.Also managed to fill my garage up with smoke in around a minute but this could be due to exhaust being full of unburnt fuel from trying!!
Do these dizzy's fail? ie magnetic pick up etc it doesn't appear to be worn, has had a mod to the rotor shaft [has a screws fitted down the centre as looks like plastic clip disintegrated].
Have also tried another .ecu but was told we don't know if it's any good ran very slightly worse with that one but then they could both be u/s, would be good if I could get them tried on another vehicle to prove a point.
Tried Eze start still popping and banging about and can smell petrol, altering dizzy does not improve it much stops firing all together,,
Removed dizzy again stripped and checked as best as poss getting 3.6k across pick up plug, reset air gap .3mm [new module fitted last week] put back in seemed to fire better, persisted with it eventually runs all be it very rough, adjusting timing does not do much it pops back through inlet manifold,pinks coughs and spits.Also managed to fill my garage up with smoke in around a minute but this could be due to exhaust being full of unburnt fuel from trying!!
Do these dizzy's fail? ie magnetic pick up etc it doesn't appear to be worn, has had a mod to the rotor shaft [has a screws fitted down the centre as looks like plastic clip disintegrated].
Have also tried another .ecu but was told we don't know if it's any good ran very slightly worse with that one but then they could both be u/s, would be good if I could get them tried on another vehicle to prove a point.
If it's now just about firing then your problem now could be fouled/wet plugs.
Take them all out and bake in the oven - not sure how long maybe an hour at 150-180C?
if the missus doesn't mind that is... else just take them out and blowtorch them then leave out for 24 hours so they dry off.
Take them all out and bake in the oven - not sure how long maybe an hour at 150-180C?
if the missus doesn't mind that is... else just take them out and blowtorch them then leave out for 24 hours so they dry off.
Edited by adam quantrill on Wednesday 21st March 18:47
The pickup on my (NEW!!) dissy failed the other year but the symptom was no spark whatsoever so if you do have a healthy spark I don't think it's a HT issue. The fact that you tried a second ECU to me rules that out - they are pretty damn reliable and can take a lot of abuse. Has anyone buggered with the settings on the AFM? If the spring has been messed with then it can completely mess up the mixture. It would be interesting to know what the hydrocarbon levels are coming out of the exhaust?
Hi all,
Sorry for lack of update its been pretty hectic with grandkids staying over... shipped them back home now relief {bless em}
Right still don't go unsure of my next move at present...
Had a friend come round we disconnected the fuel pump relay removed cold start injector and he squirted in eze start through injector hole while I started engine adjusted timing it ran quite nicely on eze start actually used a whole can..
Put in fuel relay it coughed and spit checked plugs it was flooded!
Took off EcU and sent off for testing, was told it had fuelling issues which I guessed from earlier injector test, told them to repair it
Week later it was back put it on still no start it's firing but will not run, took out plug there is fuel there but no where near as bad as before. Since then have fitted new coolant temp sensor, re checked readings on manual test procedures, borrowed from a colleague and fitted the following, diode pack, air flow sensor, fuel pressure reg, vacuum switch, extra air valve, new capacitor on coil [ coil and dizzy both new]
Also found cracks in injector plug wiring etc guess due to heat and age so replacement engine loom [secondhand but good condition] fitted all 3 relays under seat swapped and over run relay swapped guess what still exactly the same... im missing something stupid here....
Only things not swapped on injection system now are thermotime sensor [ but believe that only operates cold start injector] and throttle potentiometer, but mine does check out ok..
On one test it does say disconnect coil neg lead from distributor at coil terminal and put voltmeter in line and crank it should read 6-9 volts mine reads 3.3 volts, rang powerspark who manufacture the replacement distributor and spoke to technical they carried out tests on there test rig and told me they were getting around 4 volts so guessing that must be about right?
At present have selection of sledge hammers on order lol!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don't know where I'm going next
Sorry for lack of update its been pretty hectic with grandkids staying over... shipped them back home now relief {bless em}
Right still don't go unsure of my next move at present...
Had a friend come round we disconnected the fuel pump relay removed cold start injector and he squirted in eze start through injector hole while I started engine adjusted timing it ran quite nicely on eze start actually used a whole can..
Put in fuel relay it coughed and spit checked plugs it was flooded!
Took off EcU and sent off for testing, was told it had fuelling issues which I guessed from earlier injector test, told them to repair it
Week later it was back put it on still no start it's firing but will not run, took out plug there is fuel there but no where near as bad as before. Since then have fitted new coolant temp sensor, re checked readings on manual test procedures, borrowed from a colleague and fitted the following, diode pack, air flow sensor, fuel pressure reg, vacuum switch, extra air valve, new capacitor on coil [ coil and dizzy both new]
Also found cracks in injector plug wiring etc guess due to heat and age so replacement engine loom [secondhand but good condition] fitted all 3 relays under seat swapped and over run relay swapped guess what still exactly the same... im missing something stupid here....
Only things not swapped on injection system now are thermotime sensor [ but believe that only operates cold start injector] and throttle potentiometer, but mine does check out ok..
On one test it does say disconnect coil neg lead from distributor at coil terminal and put voltmeter in line and crank it should read 6-9 volts mine reads 3.3 volts, rang powerspark who manufacture the replacement distributor and spoke to technical they carried out tests on there test rig and told me they were getting around 4 volts so guessing that must be about right?
At present have selection of sledge hammers on order lol!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don't know where I'm going next
Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff