TVR Chimaera - Alternator issues

[EDIR]

Hi all, I'm brand new to this forum so apologies if this has been posted previously.

I bought my first Chim (T-reg 4.0 1999 model) 6 months ago and all had been going well until I was driving home (London) from a weekend in Suffolk. After filling up, the battery light came on and around 20 mins later the lights starts dimming and radio went, then I lost all power and cut out. Luckily the dual carriageway was going slowly so managed to pull over and get the car off the road (with a big help from the true gentleman how jumped out of his car behind me to assist in pushing).

Based on what the AA man said, and seems to make sense from what I've read around, is that the alternator has gone, therefore not charging the battery when the engine running (confirmed as he jump started the car and tested the battery with a voltmeter to see if it was charging).

Based on what I've read, issue with the alternator could be:
- Blown 100A fuse in the alternator (mine's a Land Rover one). Understand accessing is from underneath so would need to jack up the car
- Fixable issue with the alternator
- Written off alternator, requiring a new one

After being towed home, my car is parked on my street with a flat battery (and likely broken alternator).

Three questions I have:
1. Any recommendations for mobile mechanics that service the London area (SE11 to be precise)
2. Any recommendations for sourcing a new Land Rover alternator
3. Any alternate views on what the issue is and/or solution.

Any help much appreciated!

[ianwayne]

I can't help with the mechanic but I have had issues with the 100A fuse on 2 x Chimaeras, which seems to be exactly what you have had happen. The car will run on battery power alone until it is flat. If the fuse is cracked, you may not get a warning on the dashboard.

It isn't in the alternator, it's in a fuse holder bolted to the bottom of the engine on the driver's side. You can just about get to it without having to jack up the car but wheel off would be easier. Here's a photo of mine reaching under the car. It's in line with the forward part of the sump:



It's called a midi fuse inside and is this type:



Owners frequently put in a 125A as a replacement.

[QBee]

Both fuse and alternator are possible reasons for your problem, but given that it was the AA, not the RAC, who diagnosed it, I would check the fuse first. It is next to the sump, accessed from underneath driver's side, in the middle of a thick cable and in a holder, as in the picture posted. It's basically due south of the alternator itself. Unbolt it completely, as the standard fuse is a metal strip type, and while it might look ok, unbolted it may well come out in two pieces. From memory it is an 8mm socket. I have had two fail, both times with your symptoms.

I have also had the alternator fail, and it is a stock landrover part, available from Rimmers etc. So it could be either, but the clever 50p is on the fuse.

[ianwayne]

I should have mentioned that the midi type fuse is an improved replacement. The standard ones are just a thin piece of metal that can flex and crack which gave the symptom of a very dim battery light that I barely noticed, and a flat battery.

[EDIR]

Thanks a lot both of you , incredible helpful. Very much appreciated

I've ordered a 100A Midi fuse, I noted you mentioned some people push this up to a 125A but I'm wary of potentially damaging the battery (maybe unwaranted worrying).

You mentioned it's possible to access the fuse without jacking up the car. Seeing as I don't have a jack or axle stands (and the car's on a slight incline), any tips on getting at it? Otherwise will need to get a mobile mechanic out to help.

Thanks again!

[ianwayne]

If you shuffle under the edge of the car, you can just about reach it with a socket since the cover is held on with a nut (I think 8mm is correct). On mine, it is a screw and nut so two hands are needed.

Mine is in line with the outrigger tube running from the chassis to the o/s corner, so turning the wheels to the left will help. I'd suggest parking the car on a kerb to give more clearance underneath but you say the car doesn't run now. Catch 22 there. You could charge up the battery first? The car will run long enough to move it on battery power, but you may get stranded again.

A trolley jack is a must really for a TVR unless you take it to the garage for every little thing. Even if it's just to take off the wheels and clean the inside faces as well and the outside. It's where the paint / powdercoat fails first because most people don't bother.

[Classic Chim]

Agree with the words above, a low level trolley jack is a worthwhile investment.
If you have no mechanical skill or interest and can get the battery fully charged it should get you to a local garage who should be able to replace the 100a fuse easily enough. 10 min job for any decent mechanic.

[QBee]

Halfords sell a low enough low-entry trolley jack for around £40. Then you need to know that you jack on the outrigger corners.

[Steve_D]

Edit your profile so we know where you are.
Someone local may then be able to come and help you.

Steve

[s p a c e m a n]

Just to say, check all of the normal fuses first. There's one for the dashboard lights that will stop the alternator charging and put the battery light on if it blows, think it's a 15amp one.