Sagaris Project returns to the UK

[chris52]

I’ve had this now for a couple of months and it’s progressing well although a lot slower than I had hoped. But I’m in no rush as it will be a keeper when finished, always loved the Sag and even tried buying one a few years ago also a cat C but repaired (to a point). Never thought I would have a chance again as the prices are far too much for my meagre pockets.
The story of the car is as follows I’m sure some of you will remember it. The car originally belonged to JERRYCO and while he was driving down the M62 in Dec 2009 he lost control on black ice and ended up pinned under part of the armco barrier. It was reported that the car rolled but after speaking with Mark and TrackVroad who did the insurance estimate and seeing the car I’m 100% positive that it didn’t. Anyway the car was sold via Copart and ended up in Belgium after some repair work was carried out at the front (needs a lot of work to get this right) the roof damage was not touched and the drivers outrigger is also slightly damaged but the rest of the chassis is sound.
After being stood in an old factory for the last 8 years the owner realised that he was never going to finish it so advertised it for sale. I was lucky enough to be the first to contact him and after a bit of a conversation and some more details we agreed the sale. So off to Belgium we went a couple of weeks later.
There were a few missing ecu’s but the car did come with a few spares inc lights full suspension bush kit new windscreen etc new bonnet and door skin for the drivers door but no fixings. I decided the bonnet would take too much work to convert to a one piece hinged one and the door was not in the best condition so a new door and bonnet is on order from Brendon at Concept Performance. Interior needs a lot of work as the leather dash was torn by the smashed windscreen front carpets also need replacing but the seats doorcrda and rear carpets are good. The car had not been run since its accident and the air box had been cracked.

I removed all the plugs but a bore scope down to make sure there was no debris in the cylinders sprayed some oil down to lubricate the bores which looked great changed the oil and filter drained the tank of fuel bypassed the immobiliser as I didn’t get the fob turned it over a few times with the plug out as soon as the plugs were back in it fired up first time sounded like thunder in my little garage. The clutch was also free which I was sure would have been stuck on.
So on with the repair to the roof. Managed to get a front roll cage and roof skin and fitted and bonded it all back together

That’s pretty much as far as I have got spent the last few weekends getting the front nose up to spec and still needs plenty more work.
I am happy to update this if people are interested so please let me know
Chris

[Rosse]

[phazed]

Keep the updates coming.

[Sagi Badger]

Top man! If you need any dims, tech or photos ask, you will have my best photographic tech and measuring skills available.... probably slow you down a bit...LOL
J

[Classic Chim]

Excellent.
I’ll follow this with joy.
It looked a sorry sight, it’s looking good already.

The way I look at these things is, you’ll probably never do it again so enjoy every minute even the difficult ones.
Much respect and here is the place to find all the knowledge you’ll need.

[nawarne]

^^^ What Alun said!!

Don't forget Graham Varley's web site : http://www.varleyhyd.com/FJ062.asp . Useful references contained therein!!

Good luck! Nick

[chris52]

Cheers guys will keep the updates coming although they may be slow once the front is sorted it will be body off and chassis off to RT Racing.

[Classic Chim]

That’s ok, we’ve been here a long time and not going no place.
It’s not often you see one of these cars being brought back to life.

Such a rare car it deserves all the time it takes.
Enjoy

[chris52]

I’ve been spending quite a bit of time on the front end which was repaired before I got the car. Unfortunately it’s just not been done well the quality of the actual panel is really bad with loads of air pockets and after much consideration I have decided to do the job right it really needs cutting off and starting again. Luckily it’s not the full front end inner wings inner wheel arches radiator tray are all original and Undamaged. David Hillis is making me a new front which should be ready in a couple of weeks. May do the body off first and get the chassis down to Richard Thorpe but haven’t decided yet. Will now take me bit longer but when it’s finished it will be as good as new rather than a bodged mess.
Chris

[s6boy]

Are you tempted to do the cut outs on the wings while at this stage?

Great project and looking forward to seeing your progress

[philburch]

Great thread will be watching with interest . Makes my chassis refurb look like a walk in the park .

[chris52]

No I will be keeping the vents closed I do like the open vents but want to keep the car original as possible.
Chris

[chris52]

Well the body is off and chassis in my other garage ready to strip down and go off for the damaged drivers outrigger and checking to make sure it’s all straight.
Does anyone know if the engine and box can be dropped through the chassis as it would make it much easier for me as I have just about run out of space now.

[PetrolHeadPete]

Its normal to drop it out as you describe...needs a fair bit of wiggling and twisting to clear the chassis rails depending on what parts you leave bolted to the block. iirc the power steering pump is the most annoying...only just fits past

[chris52]

Many thanks it looked as though it would but worth checking. Removed the fuel tank but absolutely no chance of getting the two bolts out that hold the mounting bracket into the chassis. They are an M10 button Allan head that takes a 6mm allan key. You can’t get a socket in so have to use a standard Allan key. Tried heat penatrating oil etc etc. Any ideas?

[roseytvr]

chris52 said:

Many thanks it looked as though it would but worth checking. Removed the fuel tank but absolutely no chance of getting the two bolts out that hold the mounting bracket into the chassis. They are an M10 button Allan head that takes a 6mm allan key. You can’t get a socket in so have to use a standard Allan key. Tried heat penatrating oil etc etc. Any ideas?

Hi Chris
Been there and done it https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Great project mate, keep up with the updates and good luck

Ian

[chris52]

Thanks Ian at least with the body off I could get some heat on it but still they won’t move. May have to cut them off as you did and retap them. I considered just leaving them as is but that would mean if I ever wanted to get the fuel tank out again I would be back to square one.
A picture of the damage before the previous owner had the repair done. Wish they hadn’t bothered. In all fairness though the repair is strong and solid and in the right place it’s just the quality of the actual panel is very poor.

[chris52]

Well that’s the front suspension and steering rack out. Loads of bolts that were welded in place but will rebuild with copper slip on to avoid this happening again in the furure. Steering rack was a bit tricky to get out and reinstalling it without scratching the new powder coat will be interesting.
If I get a bit of time tomorrow I will start on the rear then dropping the engine and box.

Chris

[phazed]

When replacing the rack, remove the control arms, bolt the rack in position and screw on the control arms.

[chris52]

Many thanks for the tip I did take off the track rod ends or it would definitely not have come out. Should have a couple of hour free today so will start on the rear. Any tips on removing the diff as that looks very tight.
Chris