Engine start bosch issues 280i

[mrzigazaga]

IamWedgend said:

Hmm does sound scarily plausible. What was the cure on your end?

I replaced all the hoses stuff from TVR parts and got a new filter, so hopefully i've only fked my pump even if it is a rusty fuel issue.

Unfortunately mate I had to replace:

1. Driver side fuel tank
2. All hoses & Filters
3. The accumulator
4. The metering head needed to be refurbished
5. I needed a new WUR
6. I needed all new injectors

In fact it was well over £1500...If I had a time machine I would of done it all again bar the supercharging, would have had John Toovey work on the original engine, and if that failed then whack a 5.0 small block in and worry about the rest later

This was after replacing the above and being able to enjoy the car...



|https://thumbsnap.com/SX5g6eVT[/url]
Then 9k later this happened ...(Should of just bought a 400SE...I know...I know)




DISCLAIMER:

Please note that I did not or do not claim to fit superchargers or rebuild brakes or weld chassis, or even touch electrics, I do the simple jobs that I can but any tried or tested and proven help that I have learnt or that has been passed down by the good people on here..I pass it on.

Happy days

Ziga

[IamWedgend]

Wow, what a machine ziggs.

The guy you mentioned who you would have had look at the engine, where is he based? I'm feeling like it might be time to just take it to someone who knows the fuel system engine really well and can give it a proper lookover.

In the meantime, i'm whacking in the new accumulator and a pre-pump filter and seeing if that fixes the issues.

[mrzigazaga]

John Toovey turns an ordinary V6 cologne into a racing machine, might not be worthy of that route yet mate...

Give Steve a call at:
https://www.kmipetrolinjection.co.uk/
He knows his stuff, he helped diagnose mine, give him my regards if you do

For now I would bypass the accumulator and fit a pre filter to the pump, that should make a noticeable difference and help to diagnose the problem, if it doesn't then the problem could be further along the line, metering head...WUR...injectors...

The metering unit has an ultra fine mesh that can rust if left unused or the plunger can become gummed up and stick, which means no fuel is going to the fuel regulator (WUR)..and is being returned to the tank.

Where abouts are you?

[IamWedgend]

Great, I'll give him a call, thanks for the tip.

I'm based down in Brighton atm - know anyone good around here?

[mrzigazaga]

Sorry mate...If I can think of anyone I will let you know..

[KelvinatorNZ]

I'd say there is a high chance most Kjet wedges have a blocked WUR mesh to some degree. Mine was almost clogged solid. Its not a great design, too easy to block.

The metering head also has filters on each injector outlet. These can be removed once the banjo bolts are removed.

Mercedes Bosch injectors PN 0437502047 are slightly shorter but similar spec to the Ford ones, work fine, and are about half the cost per injector.

I have done a lot of work on the KJet on my car, if you're interested its all posted on my site, https://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/category/tvr/page...

[IamWedgend]

Guys thanks so much for the helpful (if sobering) input.

I've ordered a pre fuel pump. Unfortunately goofed and ordered a 40m rather than 100 - will that be a problem?

@Kelivnator - were you getting similar symptoms to me? I'll check the filters further up. Hoped putting a new post - pump filter in would stop that, but there is always micro crap that can get through. Checked out your website, awesome job!

@Ziga, I see the tickover guys did your conversion - if i have persistent issues would you recommend them for a deep dive? 60 miles seems to be my operational range before it starts falling apart, so they are just close enough?

[KelvinatorNZ]

Unfortunately i havent had a chance to properly drive my car since I got it as a non-runner (and im still working through other issues, but it runs and drives great now on the short runs I have done), but i found all kinds of issues in my KJet system. My WUR mesh was so clogged that you couldnt shine a light through it (and what came out was like a fine sand) and my injectors all leaked. The metering head filters were mostly clean with minor traces of varnish on them from old fuel. My accumulator was leaking internally too, the "dry" side was full of fuel when i took it off and bypassed it.

[IamWedgend]

One other thing - when the guy checked my pump he said it was drawing very high current 8-9 amps. Any idea what might be causing that?

@Kelvinator good luck getting it up and going. You're doing a real service getting it back on the road.

Cheers,
J

[mrzigazaga]

IamWedgend said:

@Ziga, I see the tickover guys did your conversion - if i have persistent issues would you recommend them for a deep dive? 60 miles seems to be my operational range before it starts falling apart, so they are just close enough?

They did most of the work but Power engineering who did the original instal on the Sierra 4x4i finished it.
They do know Fords very well, they might suddenly have a relapse if you take another 280i in there...

Crack on with the simple stuff first, otherwise it can become very expensive...I would try what others have suggested with magnets etc to catch rust, and fit a see through inline fuel filter pre-pump so that at least you can see if there is any crud in there...the 280i is more susceptible to cruddy fuel than anything else...bypass the accumulator for a start...you need to ascertain if the fault is pre metering unit or post...hopefully pre...can you do a drawing of your fuel hoses from tanks to pump...do you have a swirl-pot pre-pump?

[adam quantrill]

IamWedgend said:

Interesting. Did it work without restricting flow too much?

This the sort of thing you used? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-Chrome-Glass-...

Best,
J

No, more like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Walbro-Type-Inline-Clea...

glass would be too vulnerable under there.

[SEvans]

Got one of these fitted as a pre fuel pump filter and then a standard filter after the pump. You can replace the element inside so the initial cost may be more but works out better in the long run.

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/sytec-high-flow-motor...

Cheers Steve

[IamWedgend]

Ok it's looking like the accumulator isn't the issue. I'm checking out the fuel tanks next. If they are corroding inside, is the best bet to get a new set of tanks? Ziga where did you get yours from?

Cheers
J

[mrzigazaga]

IamWedgend said:

Ok it's looking like the accumulator isn't the issue. I'm checking out the fuel tanks next. If they are corroding inside, is the best bet to get a new set of tanks? Ziga where did you get yours from?

Cheers
J

Hi mate

I was very lucky that a kind soul had one sitting in his garage!...I would ascertain if there is contaminated fuel, maybe rock the car about a bit and drain some from the pre-pump connection...you will see if there is any rust..if any is present then it may well of got passed the bulkhead filer, it should not but mine did..if that is the case then you will need the metering unit refurbished...however again you need to make sure that even if there is rust in there that it might of only been blocking the pump, in which case fitting a pre-filter will solve the running issues...you can worry what to do with the tanks later....there are alternatives if the corrosion is not too bad...please try the simple stuff mate as it will spiral out of control and your bank balance will be considerably lighter and you will be no further forward....

Ziga

[Wedgehead]

[quote=IamWedgend]Ok it's looking like the accumulator isn't the issue. I'm checking out the fuel tanks next. If they are corroding inside, is the best bet to get a new set of tanks? Ziga where did you get yours from?

Years ago I had (bought this way) a 74 tvr 2500 that had the the interior mounted gas tank surrounded by about 4” of water for probably years. My tank rusted from outside in with 42 pin holes. No r Ts and available in U.S. —a quality radiator shop boiled it then coated the inside with “tank cream” that forms a bladder within the tank. Fuel never touches metal again. 👍
Just a thought if tank replacement is financially restrictive if needed.

[IamWedgend]

SEvans said:

Got one of these fitted as a pre fuel pump filter and then a standard filter after the pump. You can replace the element inside so the initial cost may be more but works out better in the long run.

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/sytec-high-flow-motor...

Cheers Steve

Hey Steve - thanks for the link. Which element did you end up getting? The 8 micron filter sounds like it might restrict flow, so I'm assuming it was the metal 50 micron element?

[adam quantrill]

Yes I have one of these fitted too on the 400SX. The idiot who put it in used the 8 micron element, which eventually blocked, leading to some interesting fuel cut out issues after a few years.

I have since put in the metal element and every year or two you take out the element and wash it in clean fuel, and put it back in, no need for a new one. (In fact I made my own element from 100 gauze but you may as well just buy the Sytec one with the metal element installed).

[SEvans]

IamWedgend said:

Hey Steve - thanks for the link. Which element did you end up getting? The 8 micron filter sounds like it might restrict flow, so I'm assuming it was the metal 50 micron element?

It was the 50 micron element. Cheers Steve