350i New Owner

[CJD2005]

I have the relay, will fit it today fingers crossed!!! I can then finally get her home! Will update you later...

[KKson]

Blimey. 3.00 in the morning. Thats a late one. Good luck for later, lets hope it is the relay thats the issue. Cheers

[CJD2005]

2 year old not sleeping!

[mrzigazaga]

CJD2005 said:

2 year old not sleeping!

And some TVR excitement ....My sleep pattern was horrendous...I can sleep through a 100 mph storm but if the Wedge is poorly...forget it...

[CJD2005]

So fitted relay, and confirmed power at pin 10 with ignition on. Could here all injectors click when rotating throttle, though this is great, Tried to fire up and it did but was running dreadful and stalled. With limited time I checked timing, and I found that the rotar arm was pointing in the opposite direction to what I originally believed to be TDC, So changed all leads around knowing in my head this was not going to work and didn't, however when checking the rotar arm position again it had changed back to its original position. Now I am very tired and need a rest, I think it is possibly a timing and fueling issue. I Checked one plug and did not seem wet so could be an injector problem, I will take gauges on my next visit to confirm all are operating! Any thoughts on rotar arm,

[KKson]

Be very systematic with the timing. Obviously crank rotates twice past TDC so best to pull no 1 plug out and double check TDC is when you have compression building. Timings marks on crank have been known to be out. Get engine spot on on TDC, using long screwdriver to ensure top of travel, then ensure rotor arm is lined up and no 1 ht lead. Also check leads are in correct firing order. At least you now have power to the ecu and injectors are working.

Edited by KKson on Friday 20th December 08:24

[CJD2005]

Yes I have just realised what I have just said about rotar arm!!!!!

[KKson]

2 year olds and sleep deprevation. Remember is well!

[Penelope Stopit]

CJD2005 said:

So fitted relay, and confirmed power at pin 10 with ignition on. Could here all injectors click when rotating throttle, though this is great

This is great news, you're nearly there

Good luck in setting her up

[KKson]

Thanks for the input Penelope. At least the sparky/ wiring bit now seems to be working. Cheers.

[CJD2005]

Yes it is great news and thank you for your advice, at least its moving forward, just needs more tweeks!

[Penelope Stopit]

KKson said:

Thanks for the input Penelope. At least the sparky/ wiring bit now seems to be working. Cheers.

As mentioned earlier, your wish is my command and it gives me great pleasure to be able to help Wedge owners with electrical problems

CJD2005 said:

Yes it is great news and thank you for your advice, at least its moving forward, just needs more tweeks!

Glad to be of help, happy tweeking, there's an endless pit of knowledge amongst the PH TVR Wedge Members that will help you tweek it back to full working order if you aren't sure of anything

Looks like it will be Turkey for Xmas after all

Pin 10's alive and kicking, there aint no stopping us now, come on join the joy ride

Penelope Stopit signing out

[KKson]

Hi Chris, knowing that your injectors are now firing my order of attack would be:
1. Manually check TDC and adjust dissy to ensure that the No 1 HT lead lines up as close as you can to rotor arm position.
2. Double check all HT leads are in the correct order
3. Pull all plugs out, ensure they are clean and gapped correctly
4. Ensure contact pin in centre of inside of dissy cap is working correctly
5. Damn good dose of WD40 over all the leads
6. How old is the petrol? Stale petrol can be a problem, so might be worth sticking a couple of gallon of new high octane fuel in the tank
7. Keeping the dissy clamp bolt slightly slack, try starting it again and immediately tweak the dissy to see if rotation improves things. If you do have a strobe light then try and set it up. From memory I set mine to 8 degrees BTDC however my 350i timing marks were out by a few degrees so I ran it at 4 degrees BTDC.
8. If you can keep the engine running with plenty of revs then try and keep it going. If the coolant temperature sensor is playing up, typically it causes more cold start issues. If you can get some temperature into the engine it may settle down.
9. if you smell loads of petrol fumes on start up then try starting without the cold start injector (i.e pull the plug off it|)
10. Might also be worth getting some fuel injector cleaner into the fuel tank to try to clean things up, but I hear that the cleaner can loosen debris in the system and block the injector filters so bit of a double edged sword.
11. Double check the hose from plenum to air flow meter is air tight and properly secured, with no air leakage.

Hope you get it running.Cheers.

[CJD2005]

Cheers Keith, yes I think the timing is definitely a must to get right by the sounds of it, I have put 5 litres of fresh fuel in it, and changed filter, however I'm going to use my gauges to check the pressure drop at each injector to confirm fuel is passing, but thanks for the list, I will be going back over Xmas to hopefully get it going, so will let you know. Have a good one..

[CJD2005]

Hi All, just a quick update...

So carried out all checks and BOOM!!! Its now alive....

But.....

At idle the revs are really high... I can't say what they are as the rev counter is not working, played with idle screw and no difference...

So the main thing is its running but any assistance with the above would be appreciated??

[KKson]

Hi Chris. Could well be an air leak, either on AFM to plenum hose or even the plenum itself where it seals to top plate. Also check all hoses feeding into plenum, including the breather pipe and the two vacuum pipes, one to dissy and one to fuel regulator. Also take the plenum hose off and double check plenum throttle butterfly is closing to the correct gap. You can adjust the butterfly stop. If its a little too open that will cause high idle.

Edited by KKson on Monday 30th December 15:06

[CJD2005]

OK so I've calmed it down, ticking over nicely. I changed a few hoses and bingo. So far so good. However.....

Jumped in to reverse out of garage and clutch pedal stuck!!! Won't budge an inch. So priced up new master and slave on tvr parts £100... I have seen a similar Bearmach master cylinder version STC500100 for Lr Defender, is this the same??

I have a number of faults to sort out...

Rev counter just redlines when running? I've checked connections at coil, but not at the back of the counter..

Oil pressure gauge is reading off the scale, but not sure if it's faulty or not!! Worried!?

The joys......

[KKson]

Hi Chris, good to hear you are making progress but not good re the clutch. Only issue I'm aware of with new master cylinders is that there are a number of different threads so sometimes you may need an adaptor.

Oil pressure gauge may well be a shorting out wire or a faulty sender unit. If the oil warning light goes off when the engine starts then at least you know all is well. There are a number of different gauges and different sender units and it's common for someone to fit the wrong one which can cause gauge issues.

Cheers.

[colin mee]

I changed my gauage from the electric one tio the pipe type lot more accurate colin

Edited by colin mee on Saturday 11th January 23:12

[CJD2005]

So I bet the TVR master cylinder part won't need the adaptor, sometimes you just have to bite the bullet! May as well get the oil sender from them also. I don't know if oil light is going out or not as the lens and bulb is missing from the dash.. Thats if it is the one on the top row and to the right of the battery lamp?