What's happening in your garage this weekend ?
Discussion
batman400 said:
Hmm,be able to drive at night, and use the heater ?
Lets just say that the Electric PAS pump has a downside - After one alternator belt literally burnt out and both Gates "powergrip" (It didn't) and a Continental replacement also slip under full load I'm looking at a more robust solution...
I checked mine last night and when I turn the pump on / off with the engine running the revs hardly move.Lets just say that the Electric PAS pump has a downside - After one alternator belt literally burnt out and both Gates "powergrip" (It didn't) and a Continental replacement also slip under full load I'm looking at a more robust solution...
I also tried a full lock test and the revs move a little bit but not much.
Perhaps your pump is fault, what fuse and relay are you running ?
rev-erend said:
Yep. That's them.
M5. Nearly £12 for 25 washers.
I had tried loctite which works well but leaves the thread very stiff for the new bolt to go into, so I hope these are a better solution.
Spent an hour last night tracing the two wires that power the washer pump. Found them in the end.
Ah. I have 3-off M8 on my desk (free samples) that I would have chucked in the post as spares for you. I'll stick them in my box of "might come in handy one day" items M5. Nearly £12 for 25 washers.
I had tried loctite which works well but leaves the thread very stiff for the new bolt to go into, so I hope these are a better solution.
Spent an hour last night tracing the two wires that power the washer pump. Found them in the end.
Started to investigate my lighting system. I have some problems.
First l/h light pod don't lift.
Next various light don't work, semi work or flash other lights.
Removed pod and started tracing fuses and relays as a start as my fuse board matches no known TVR diagram. This might take a while.
First l/h light pod don't lift.
Next various light don't work, semi work or flash other lights.
Removed pod and started tracing fuses and relays as a start as my fuse board matches no known TVR diagram. This might take a while.
Edited by rev-erend on Tuesday 7th March 21:12
Had the day off today so spent it on the Wedges. 390SE is now back on the road after a month up on axle stands. New rocker gaskets, new sump gasket, oil and filter change. new rear oil seal on gearbox, box flushed and refilled with Mobil 1 and Molyslip and its lovely and smooth. Coolant flushed and replaced, front brake pads replaced, front wheel bearings adjusted, underside of car de-greased/de-oiled from all the crap that had leaked out and all UJ's on the drive shafts given a damn good greasing. The one job I couldn't do was check the diff oil level - the garage that replaced all the seals on it last year have f%%ked up the fill plug and rounded all the edges. That's a job for another day.
Had two good blasts out in it, including picking my lad up from football - he said despite standing in the middle of a massive football pitch he could hear me coming through the nearby village which is more than half a mile away.
Compared with the 350i it's a raw, noisy stupidly fast thing. Love it!
Had two good blasts out in it, including picking my lad up from football - he said despite standing in the middle of a massive football pitch he could hear me coming through the nearby village which is more than half a mile away.
Compared with the 350i it's a raw, noisy stupidly fast thing. Love it!
No spannering this weekend.....took the SEAC out for a 4 hour blast, kinda long way for a cup of coffee (cheers Keith)
Very pleased the old girl didn't miss a beat :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX2Cc8OOE7g
Very pleased the old girl didn't miss a beat :-)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hX2Cc8OOE7g
Edited by gmw9666 on Saturday 11th March 19:27
Spent some time after work looking at the rear electrics .. when lights are on the rear indicators are lit as are
the brake lights .. bit of tracing and it was an earth.. surprise.. no.
I made a new wire connection to replace the scotch block and will reroute its path from the battery to rear chassis and while I am there run a secondary earth to the rear chassis no the other side of the car. You can never have too many earths.
Update - secondary cable completed. Primary cable still needed. Gotta remove the other rear wheel to gain access.
Rear brake lights seem to be on all the time .. might have to check the pedal switch. Also one front spot light not working.
the brake lights .. bit of tracing and it was an earth.. surprise.. no.
I made a new wire connection to replace the scotch block and will reroute its path from the battery to rear chassis and while I am there run a secondary earth to the rear chassis no the other side of the car. You can never have too many earths.
Update - secondary cable completed. Primary cable still needed. Gotta remove the other rear wheel to gain access.
Rear brake lights seem to be on all the time .. might have to check the pedal switch. Also one front spot light not working.
Edited by rev-erend on Wednesday 22 March 19:17
The lighter evenings mean I have a bit more enthusiasm to fix the electrics on the SEAC.
Front headlight lifter now fixed and all put back together.
One of the driving lamps was not working - traced to a faulty connector.. bit of micro filing and its fixed.
Main beam not working on the other pod .. fault trace to + wiring not working. Someone has soldered the wires and there is loads of corrusion. Planning to cut wire, check for current and reconnect wires.
Looks like the final issue is a short on the brake light / reverse circuit. Gonna look at it over the weekend.
Front headlight lifter now fixed and all put back together.
One of the driving lamps was not working - traced to a faulty connector.. bit of micro filing and its fixed.
Main beam not working on the other pod .. fault trace to + wiring not working. Someone has soldered the wires and there is loads of corrusion. Planning to cut wire, check for current and reconnect wires.
Looks like the final issue is a short on the brake light / reverse circuit. Gonna look at it over the weekend.
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