What's happening in your garage this weekend ?
Discussion
Chassis now all painted but outrigger fronts will need to be done next winter. Hopefully good enough for the MOT this year.
One annoying problem from this weekend is the failure of the electrics in the garage and workshop. Naturally I suspect the four legged monster with sharp teeth, my Husky. Tests isolating each section showed no issues but occasionally after 10 seconds or 10 minutes it would trip no matter what load was on the circuit. I inspected all the cable and only found one nick in the cable .. so I have to suspect water in the cable causing a minor short enough to cause the RCD to trip.
I also needed to check the wheel bearings and steering was OK for the MOT, rear bearings were just about OK, one had a bit more movement than the other. The right hand 16" wheel touches the fuel tank when jacked up so I have a 6mm spacer but that is making the wheel studs a bit marginal, so I will replace these when I upgrade the driveshafts.
Next up was the front wheel bearings one is Ok the other needs a bit of adjustment, its on the to do list. Finally I checked the steering and there is loads of slack, too much IMHO for the MOT, closer inspection seems to show its the rack with loads of slack, the track rod ends show very little movement. So it looks like the rack needs to come off next weekend. I will also replace the track rod ends while I am there.
Final job for the weekend was a little bit more mapping of fuel on the 0 load site. When pulling away I was getting some weak mixtures. I found a few load values around 2500 up to 4000, so I changed these values and all looked a lot better but I still feel the acceleration fueling cannot cope with 8 * 48mm throttles opening at the same time but thats a job for another time as I have noticed two more problematic issues that are real showstoppers.
The first is that when the engine gets hot the throttles start getting sticky. Now initially we put this down to incorrect cam timing, now fixed, after that we assumed it may be to lean a mixture not fully burning and remaining in the inlet and heating the throttles but that is now fixed. So it looks like a problem that needs further investigation and somehow fixing. Another more minor issue is throttle return, no matter what I do with springs it does not easily return to 0.. perhaps partially down to sticky throttles.
The next major show stopper is when hot the car suddenly stalls and is unresponsive to the throttle, then I discovered the new 20a fuse for the fuel pump (Bosch 404) which is just gravity fed had melted, I replaced this with a 30a fuse as the 404 pump can draw 18amps but I suspect the original power feed cable is not man enough. So I need to replace this all plus and feed wire, as I think this is the root of the issue.
Slowly getting them. Learning plenty along the way.
One annoying problem from this weekend is the failure of the electrics in the garage and workshop. Naturally I suspect the four legged monster with sharp teeth, my Husky. Tests isolating each section showed no issues but occasionally after 10 seconds or 10 minutes it would trip no matter what load was on the circuit. I inspected all the cable and only found one nick in the cable .. so I have to suspect water in the cable causing a minor short enough to cause the RCD to trip.
I also needed to check the wheel bearings and steering was OK for the MOT, rear bearings were just about OK, one had a bit more movement than the other. The right hand 16" wheel touches the fuel tank when jacked up so I have a 6mm spacer but that is making the wheel studs a bit marginal, so I will replace these when I upgrade the driveshafts.
Next up was the front wheel bearings one is Ok the other needs a bit of adjustment, its on the to do list. Finally I checked the steering and there is loads of slack, too much IMHO for the MOT, closer inspection seems to show its the rack with loads of slack, the track rod ends show very little movement. So it looks like the rack needs to come off next weekend. I will also replace the track rod ends while I am there.
Final job for the weekend was a little bit more mapping of fuel on the 0 load site. When pulling away I was getting some weak mixtures. I found a few load values around 2500 up to 4000, so I changed these values and all looked a lot better but I still feel the acceleration fueling cannot cope with 8 * 48mm throttles opening at the same time but thats a job for another time as I have noticed two more problematic issues that are real showstoppers.
The first is that when the engine gets hot the throttles start getting sticky. Now initially we put this down to incorrect cam timing, now fixed, after that we assumed it may be to lean a mixture not fully burning and remaining in the inlet and heating the throttles but that is now fixed. So it looks like a problem that needs further investigation and somehow fixing. Another more minor issue is throttle return, no matter what I do with springs it does not easily return to 0.. perhaps partially down to sticky throttles.
The next major show stopper is when hot the car suddenly stalls and is unresponsive to the throttle, then I discovered the new 20a fuse for the fuel pump (Bosch 404) which is just gravity fed had melted, I replaced this with a 30a fuse as the 404 pump can draw 18amps but I suspect the original power feed cable is not man enough. So I need to replace this all plus and feed wire, as I think this is the root of the issue.
Slowly getting them. Learning plenty along the way.
rev-erend said:
Chassis now all painted but outrigger fronts will need to be done next winter. Hopefully good enough for the MOT this year.
One annoying problem from this weekend is the failure of the electrics in the garage and workshop. Naturally I suspect the four legged monster with sharp teeth, my Husky. Tests isolating each section showed no issues but occasionally after 10 seconds or 10 minutes it would trip no matter what load was on the circuit. I inspected all the cable and only found one nick in the cable .. so I have to suspect water in the cable causing a minor short enough to cause the RCD to trip.
I also needed to check the wheel bearings and steering was OK for the MOT, rear bearings were just about OK, one had a bit more movement than the other. The right hand 16" wheel touches the fuel tank when jacked up so I have a 6mm spacer but that is making the wheel studs a bit marginal, so I will replace these when I upgrade the driveshafts.
Next up was the front wheel bearings one is Ok the other needs a bit of adjustment, its on the to do list. Finally I checked the steering and there is loads of slack, too much IMHO for the MOT, closer inspection seems to show its the rack with loads of slack, the track rod ends show very little movement. So it looks like the rack needs to come off next weekend. I will also replace the track rod ends while I am there.
Final job for the weekend was a little bit more mapping of fuel on the 0 load site. When pulling away I was getting some weak mixtures. I found a few load values around 2500 up to 4000, so I changed these values and all looked a lot better but I still feel the acceleration fueling cannot cope with 8 * 48mm throttles opening at the same time but thats a job for another time as I have noticed two more problematic issues that are real showstoppers.
The first is that when the engine gets hot the throttles start getting sticky. Now initially we put this down to incorrect cam timing, now fixed, after that we assumed it may be to lean a mixture not fully burning and remaining in the inlet and heating the throttles but that is now fixed. So it looks like a problem that needs further investigation and somehow fixing. Another more minor issue is throttle return, no matter what I do with springs it does not easily return to 0.. perhaps partially down to sticky throttles.
The next major show stopper is when hot the car suddenly stalls and is unresponsive to the throttle, then I discovered the new 20a fuse for the fuel pump (Bosch 404) which is just gravity fed had melted, I replaced this with a 30a fuse as the 404 pump can draw 18amps but I suspect the original power feed cable is not man enough. So I need to replace this all plus and feed wire, as I think this is the root of the issue.
Slowly getting them. Learning plenty along the way.
Blimey! Sounds like you are well and truly peeling onions - peel off one issue to find another underneath! But at least you are making progress.One annoying problem from this weekend is the failure of the electrics in the garage and workshop. Naturally I suspect the four legged monster with sharp teeth, my Husky. Tests isolating each section showed no issues but occasionally after 10 seconds or 10 minutes it would trip no matter what load was on the circuit. I inspected all the cable and only found one nick in the cable .. so I have to suspect water in the cable causing a minor short enough to cause the RCD to trip.
I also needed to check the wheel bearings and steering was OK for the MOT, rear bearings were just about OK, one had a bit more movement than the other. The right hand 16" wheel touches the fuel tank when jacked up so I have a 6mm spacer but that is making the wheel studs a bit marginal, so I will replace these when I upgrade the driveshafts.
Next up was the front wheel bearings one is Ok the other needs a bit of adjustment, its on the to do list. Finally I checked the steering and there is loads of slack, too much IMHO for the MOT, closer inspection seems to show its the rack with loads of slack, the track rod ends show very little movement. So it looks like the rack needs to come off next weekend. I will also replace the track rod ends while I am there.
Final job for the weekend was a little bit more mapping of fuel on the 0 load site. When pulling away I was getting some weak mixtures. I found a few load values around 2500 up to 4000, so I changed these values and all looked a lot better but I still feel the acceleration fueling cannot cope with 8 * 48mm throttles opening at the same time but thats a job for another time as I have noticed two more problematic issues that are real showstoppers.
The first is that when the engine gets hot the throttles start getting sticky. Now initially we put this down to incorrect cam timing, now fixed, after that we assumed it may be to lean a mixture not fully burning and remaining in the inlet and heating the throttles but that is now fixed. So it looks like a problem that needs further investigation and somehow fixing. Another more minor issue is throttle return, no matter what I do with springs it does not easily return to 0.. perhaps partially down to sticky throttles.
The next major show stopper is when hot the car suddenly stalls and is unresponsive to the throttle, then I discovered the new 20a fuse for the fuel pump (Bosch 404) which is just gravity fed had melted, I replaced this with a 30a fuse as the 404 pump can draw 18amps but I suspect the original power feed cable is not man enough. So I need to replace this all plus and feed wire, as I think this is the root of the issue.
Slowly getting them. Learning plenty along the way.
We had an issue at work with a 12v water pump that, on paper, should've pulled no more than 15A, but we ended up with a 40A fuse and wiring and a 60A relay as they kept burning out! Logging the current draw, we saw it actually pull spikes of 25A...
eesbad said:
rev-erend said:
Chassis now all painted but outrigger fronts will need to be done next winter. Hopefully good enough for the MOT this year.
One annoying problem from this weekend is the failure of the electrics in the garage and workshop. Naturally I suspect the four legged monster with sharp teeth, my Husky. Tests isolating each section showed no issues but occasionally after 10 seconds or 10 minutes it would trip no matter what load was on the circuit. I inspected all the cable and only found one nick in the cable .. so I have to suspect water in the cable causing a minor short enough to cause the RCD to trip.
I also needed to check the wheel bearings and steering was OK for the MOT, rear bearings were just about OK, one had a bit more movement than the other. The right hand 16" wheel touches the fuel tank when jacked up so I have a 6mm spacer but that is making the wheel studs a bit marginal, so I will replace these when I upgrade the driveshafts.
Next up was the front wheel bearings one is Ok the other needs a bit of adjustment, its on the to do list. Finally I checked the steering and there is loads of slack, too much IMHO for the MOT, closer inspection seems to show its the rack with loads of slack, the track rod ends show very little movement. So it looks like the rack needs to come off next weekend. I will also replace the track rod ends while I am there.
Final job for the weekend was a little bit more mapping of fuel on the 0 load site. When pulling away I was getting some weak mixtures. I found a few load values around 2500 up to 4000, so I changed these values and all looked a lot better but I still feel the acceleration fueling cannot cope with 8 * 48mm throttles opening at the same time but thats a job for another time as I have noticed two more problematic issues that are real showstoppers.
The first is that when the engine gets hot the throttles start getting sticky. Now initially we put this down to incorrect cam timing, now fixed, after that we assumed it may be to lean a mixture not fully burning and remaining in the inlet and heating the throttles but that is now fixed. So it looks like a problem that needs further investigation and somehow fixing. Another more minor issue is throttle return, no matter what I do with springs it does not easily return to 0.. perhaps partially down to sticky throttles.
The next major show stopper is when hot the car suddenly stalls and is unresponsive to the throttle, then I discovered the new 20a fuse for the fuel pump (Bosch 404) which is just gravity fed had melted, I replaced this with a 30a fuse as the 404 pump can draw 18amps but I suspect the original power feed cable is not man enough. So I need to replace this all plus and feed wire, as I think this is the root of the issue.
Slowly getting them. Learning plenty along the way.
Blimey! Sounds like you are well and truly peeling onions - peel off one issue to find another underneath! But at least you are making progress.One annoying problem from this weekend is the failure of the electrics in the garage and workshop. Naturally I suspect the four legged monster with sharp teeth, my Husky. Tests isolating each section showed no issues but occasionally after 10 seconds or 10 minutes it would trip no matter what load was on the circuit. I inspected all the cable and only found one nick in the cable .. so I have to suspect water in the cable causing a minor short enough to cause the RCD to trip.
I also needed to check the wheel bearings and steering was OK for the MOT, rear bearings were just about OK, one had a bit more movement than the other. The right hand 16" wheel touches the fuel tank when jacked up so I have a 6mm spacer but that is making the wheel studs a bit marginal, so I will replace these when I upgrade the driveshafts.
Next up was the front wheel bearings one is Ok the other needs a bit of adjustment, its on the to do list. Finally I checked the steering and there is loads of slack, too much IMHO for the MOT, closer inspection seems to show its the rack with loads of slack, the track rod ends show very little movement. So it looks like the rack needs to come off next weekend. I will also replace the track rod ends while I am there.
Final job for the weekend was a little bit more mapping of fuel on the 0 load site. When pulling away I was getting some weak mixtures. I found a few load values around 2500 up to 4000, so I changed these values and all looked a lot better but I still feel the acceleration fueling cannot cope with 8 * 48mm throttles opening at the same time but thats a job for another time as I have noticed two more problematic issues that are real showstoppers.
The first is that when the engine gets hot the throttles start getting sticky. Now initially we put this down to incorrect cam timing, now fixed, after that we assumed it may be to lean a mixture not fully burning and remaining in the inlet and heating the throttles but that is now fixed. So it looks like a problem that needs further investigation and somehow fixing. Another more minor issue is throttle return, no matter what I do with springs it does not easily return to 0.. perhaps partially down to sticky throttles.
The next major show stopper is when hot the car suddenly stalls and is unresponsive to the throttle, then I discovered the new 20a fuse for the fuel pump (Bosch 404) which is just gravity fed had melted, I replaced this with a 30a fuse as the 404 pump can draw 18amps but I suspect the original power feed cable is not man enough. So I need to replace this all plus and feed wire, as I think this is the root of the issue.
Slowly getting them. Learning plenty along the way.
We had an issue at work with a 12v water pump that, on paper, should've pulled no more than 15A, but we ended up with a 40A fuse and wiring and a 60A relay as they kept burning out! Logging the current draw, we saw it actually pull spikes of 25A...
Edited to add pump model is 044.
Edited by rev-erend on Wednesday 17th May 12:46
adam quantrill said:
For the throttle bodies try re-lubricating with some high-temperature grease or oil, in case the existing lube is getting too thin with temperature.
Thanks Adam, sadly I think they may need to be taken apart off the car and maybe also fettled for a better fit but I need to check each bank to see where the problem lies and whether the TPS is also causing stiction.I couldn't wait for the weekend so today while the sun is shining I changed the engine oil and filter. This time I done it a bit different. I've use PH2821A Fram filter. It's a little longer than the OC 261 Mahle I normally use, and I think it might have a more secure non return valve. For the oil I've used Mobil 15w40 mutigrade. The reason for this, I found the 20w50 a little too thick and a slow on the uptake from cold in the winter. The engine sounds good with this set up and time will show if any improvements.
Tony. TCB.
Tony. TCB.
Saw the end of the first an all the second, and managed a few jobs on the wedge, at 84000 miles cleaned out the Sytec fuel prefilter,
Fixed up the gearbox remote linkage with some metal bushings at the side, as the rubber had perished and I don't want to go back there in a long time.
Also spotted a few small holes in the rear exhaust so slapped some gun gum on them, looks like I'll have to invest in a straight stainless section sometime soon, and a 90 degree bend, or I might try and get one made up in one piece.
Fixed up the gearbox remote linkage with some metal bushings at the side, as the rubber had perished and I don't want to go back there in a long time.
Also spotted a few small holes in the rear exhaust so slapped some gun gum on them, looks like I'll have to invest in a straight stainless section sometime soon, and a 90 degree bend, or I might try and get one made up in one piece.
After my recent MOT flagged up excessive tyre wear on the rears inner edges due to excessive camber I've had a look at what's required to correct it.
Using some mdf and my best school trigonometry I made a camber measuring tool to see how far off the camber is - quite a bit as it happens, 3degrees offside and 3 1/2 degrees offside ( std is 1/2 to 1 degree)
Its taken a while to find a supplier of the correct shims to go on the driveshaft to adjust the camber but i managed to get some from ward engineering (jagaxles.co.uk) at the astronomical sum if 70p each each shim is 20 thou which should give around 1/4 of a degree of adjustment
Hoping the shims will arrive by the weekend so I can fit them
Also sorted out my starter motor - turned out to be nothing but the bolts being loose !! - a quick nip up and all good - sounds much quieter than it ever has in 3 years of ownership so I'm wondering if the bolts have been slightly loose all that time ...
Using some mdf and my best school trigonometry I made a camber measuring tool to see how far off the camber is - quite a bit as it happens, 3degrees offside and 3 1/2 degrees offside ( std is 1/2 to 1 degree)
Its taken a while to find a supplier of the correct shims to go on the driveshaft to adjust the camber but i managed to get some from ward engineering (jagaxles.co.uk) at the astronomical sum if 70p each each shim is 20 thou which should give around 1/4 of a degree of adjustment
Hoping the shims will arrive by the weekend so I can fit them
Also sorted out my starter motor - turned out to be nothing but the bolts being loose !! - a quick nip up and all good - sounds much quieter than it ever has in 3 years of ownership so I'm wondering if the bolts have been slightly loose all that time ...
adam quantrill said:
Does that mean about 12 shims each side - 1/4"? It might have been better to buy a few and trace one out and cut out of a sheet of aly or mild steel a few times for the gross amounts....
8 shims on the offside 10 on the nearside gets me to 1 degree of camber (within spec) Could have bought a shim and some thicker material to make up some thicker shims but jaguar saw fit just to add shims as required and the overall cost is only £15 ish inc postage so doesn't make much sense to waste a load of time fabricating thicker shims
Removed the rack at the weekend. Took off the track rod ends last night (8astard job). Packaged up the rack. Being picked up by courier tomorrow and being refurbished by kc in Birmingham who are also supplying new hoses.
Ordered a new wheel bearing kit for kerbside as it's a bit worn. Also ordered new track rod ends and new lower steering column bush (triangular type column).
Ordered a new wheel bearing kit for kerbside as it's a bit worn. Also ordered new track rod ends and new lower steering column bush (triangular type column).
Good question, I've not connected it electrically yet.
I've had the engine running to check the belt run was OK but as the new alternator is rated at 100A I'm going run a new cable from the battery to the alternator output just to be on the safe side.
The Pulley has gone off for anodising and I'm overseas for three weeks, I've got various parts to order so I can get her bolted back together for the fest !!
I've had the engine running to check the belt run was OK but as the new alternator is rated at 100A I'm going run a new cable from the battery to the alternator output just to be on the safe side.
The Pulley has gone off for anodising and I'm overseas for three weeks, I've got various parts to order so I can get her bolted back together for the fest !!
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