Finally the body is coming off

[tony 69]

UPDATED 16TH NOV 2017

This is my car starting its journey from work where I left it till I had room in my garage

shes ruff as said before but its well worth saving in my eyes

Edited by tony 69 on Wednesday 22 November 20:33

[AutoAndy]

Good luck Tony...are you doing it yourself of getting help?

If you need help lifting, then where are you in the country?

[tony 69]

Inside where everything out of the forest has been living for a fair few years

[magpies]

are you patching the bonnet (I have a one with most of the front ok)?

It's a great feeling getting it on the road after a rebuild - try to enjoy the build as it can be frustrating

[tony 69]

Hi Andy I'm doing it myself slowly. I am almost there with the body lift just took my time with jacks and a strap for a back up I can see some defo areas that need work with the welder but its better than I first thought when I bought it lol

Cheers

[tony 69]

I've managed to pick up a good bonnet so its mostly chassis work. The engine ran really well I made a point of running that before I started to strip it.

It seems to have held water at some point in its life and the side where the bonnet was damaged seems to have rotten more than any where else on the car as the pics I post will show. I will be needing strange parts like seat belts etc due to being rotten around the fixings.

Sounds bad I know but its not really

Cheers

[tony 69]

This is where I called it a day





Another little nest lol

[glenrobbo]

tony 69 said:

I will be needing strange parts like seat belts etc due to being rotten around the fixings.

Cheers

Good luck with the restoration Tony. It's always good to hear of another one being saved.
It may be a good idea to contact David Gerald Sportscars in Redditch to see if they have the seatbelts you need. They have been breaking an S recently.

Whereabouts in the country are you located by the way?
Don't hesitate to ask on here if there's any advice / help / bits you need in the future. We're a friendly bunch, and I reckon this is the best forum.

[tony 69]

Hi Glen I'm in Chesterfield Derbyshire yeh I have wanted one forever spotted this and thought sod it 1 phone call later it was mine lol.

I know its in a bad way but I can do all the work myself so should keep costs down alittle.
Engine came out tonight so suspension next then off to blasters.

Question do I have it powder coated or sprayed (which would allow me to touch upif needed) nothing really in it cost wise either way it needs blasting.

Cheers

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi Tony.
Looks like you have a lot of work on your hands, if I can help just let me know. will be worth it in the end.

Alan

[v8s4me]

tony 69 said:

...Question do I have it powder coated or sprayed (which would allow me to touch upif needed) nothing really in it cost wise either way it needs blasting...Cheers

Sprayed. For the very reason you stated Once the powder coat gets chipped and water gets under the coating, the finish will lift. This is less likely with paint. (IMHO).

You might also want to spend some time going over any iffy welding, using P38 to fill any pock-marks and/or holes so that what ever finish you decide to use flows well over the joins and does not leave any gaps/holes which might not cover properly, and so allow water in. It surprising how even quite blobby welding can be made to look respectable with a bit of filing and filling. Of course getting a decent welder to to the job in the first place is the real answer, but sometimes we don't get what we might think we are paying for.

[tony 69]

i Alan yeh lots to do but nothing like what you've been upto lol.

Hows it going are you any closer to getting that body back on can't wait to see it finished

[Blue 30]

I agree, paint it. Well its what I am doing with mine... Eventually.
At big resto shows there are guys 'Ken & Lyn' usually there, they know their paints. Do a Google search, as they have a website.
You could also do a Google search for seatbelt repairs, as there are some around the UK that maybe able to help.
I will have some of the rear suspension big tubing surplus, & also some flat sheet so ask if you need any.
I'm sure yours will be finished before mine, as I am also doing a total engine drivetrain transplant.. To Jag V6 AJ30. Then there's the interior refit, new hood, etc etc... Spring 2017 looks promising !
Enjoy...
TB.

[Oldred_V8S]

As stated, paint is easier to repair than powder coat. Once powder coat cracks, water gets in and it can come off in strips.

[Bobhon]

Didn't someone on one of the TVR forums have their chassis Hot Zinc Sprayed before it was powdercoated? May have been the Wedge or Chimp guys...
Sounds like a chassis which will never rust again (from the outside anyway). Might be worth a look.

Bob

[v8s4me]

So would a hot zinc undercoat stop the powder coat lifting if water got in through a crack or chip? Could you paint over a hot zinc coating and get the best of both worlds?

[ChrisGadd]

Good to see another S being cared for, if you need a hand with anything Tony I'm just round the corner from you

[Oldred_V8S]

v8s4me said:

So would a hot zinc undercoat stop the powder coat lifting if water got in through a crack or chip? Could you paint over a hot zinc coating and get the best of both worlds?

No Joe it wouldn't, but at least the chassis wouldn't rust. I am getting mine zinc coated and painted with 2 pack. Thought long and hard about this as there are benefits in going either way, but the fact that a chip in the 2 pack will stay as a chip (which can be touched in) and won't expand beyond being a chip (unlike PC) sold it to me.

[v8s4me]

next question then. Is the zinc coating sprayed on to the chassis or is it a dipping process?

[Oldred_V8S]

v8s4me said:

next question then. Is the zinc coating sprayed on to the chassis or is it a dipping process?

Joe it is a thermal zinc-spray (aka ‘hot’ zinc-spray).