4 Post Lift Recommendation
Discussion
I had a model 3 from SJR installed a few weeks back. Excellent kit, superb service and an installation team who knew what they were doing. I had the optional jacking beam included.
Power supply really should be 32amp albeit it operates off 13 amp......my 32 amp supply goes in tomorrow along with 16amp supplies for the heater (I'm getting way too old for this being cold lark!!) and compressor. My ceiling is around 3400mm so Sam included an additional "bump bar" safety cut off. As standard the automatic locks allow for the two TVRs with no problem but if I put the Defender on top and forget to adjust the locks then access into the Defender will be through the bedroom: hence the need for "bump bar".
Sam, the guy who runs SJR, is very help full and has solutions including getting a "quart into a pint pot"!! Other companies I found were not very responsive and lacked flexibility in what they supplied. All in all I found SJR provided the best value for money.
Hope the above helps
TC
Power supply really should be 32amp albeit it operates off 13 amp......my 32 amp supply goes in tomorrow along with 16amp supplies for the heater (I'm getting way too old for this being cold lark!!) and compressor. My ceiling is around 3400mm so Sam included an additional "bump bar" safety cut off. As standard the automatic locks allow for the two TVRs with no problem but if I put the Defender on top and forget to adjust the locks then access into the Defender will be through the bedroom: hence the need for "bump bar".
Sam, the guy who runs SJR, is very help full and has solutions including getting a "quart into a pint pot"!! Other companies I found were not very responsive and lacked flexibility in what they supplied. All in all I found SJR provided the best value for money.
Hope the above helps
TC
Folks, just reviving an old thread. Looking at four posters purely for storage reasons. I ideally want to put a Westfield over a TVR. Does anyone with one of the SJR lifts know how much height the lift platform takes up? I have 246cm garage height, TVR is 115cm roof off or 119cm roof on. Westfield would be 107cm with a standard roll at or 117 with an MSA compliant bar. So worst case the cars are 236cm and best case 221cm. Suspect no chance with the former and maybe with the later (25cm to play with). Any help appreciated. Thanks.
Hi,
I have just checked and the lift platform on the Mod 4 is 130mm from the floor to the top of the platform.
Other considerations:
The platform locking positions are dictated by the cut outs in the ladders (one ladder in each of the 4 posts), these could all be adjusted up or down if your dimensions are that critical and may allow you to get the platform looking locked in at a more specific locked in height due to your height constraint.
The platform needs to click into the ladder on all 4 posts and then release the pressure in the ram so that the finished height is mechanically locked and solid .
Other thing to note is that when you want to lower the ramp, you need to raise the ramp 10-20mm to release the manual locks before releasing the pressure from the ram and lower the platform.
I hope this helps.
I have just checked and the lift platform on the Mod 4 is 130mm from the floor to the top of the platform.
Other considerations:
The platform locking positions are dictated by the cut outs in the ladders (one ladder in each of the 4 posts), these could all be adjusted up or down if your dimensions are that critical and may allow you to get the platform looking locked in at a more specific locked in height due to your height constraint.
The platform needs to click into the ladder on all 4 posts and then release the pressure in the ram so that the finished height is mechanically locked and solid .
Other thing to note is that when you want to lower the ramp, you need to raise the ramp 10-20mm to release the manual locks before releasing the pressure from the ram and lower the platform.
I hope this helps.
Apologies for the revive. Ian - did you get the SJR in the end? I'm building a triple (hopefully if I can get through planning as its a listed building) and wanted 2 lifts, both 4 post but may go with a 2 post as well now. I plan to use as storage but will also need to do work occasionally. Do I need 3 phase power as the electrics in the house aren't the best. What is the ramp height to get onto the ramps? How much are the lifting beams and approx cost for delivery and install as I'd rather they did it so it was right. I'm looking at TVR (Griffs/Taimar/Wedge) and Morris Minor storage so was thinking approx 2.3m eaves height for the garage.
FFG
FFG
FFG. If they do need three phase and it is not easy to get it supplied to the house, you could always go for an inverter or a stand alone generator.
Interesting thread.
I have wanted a lift for a long time, but until recently not done anything about it. Originally I fancied a 4 post for ease of drive on, but a few friends in the trade said that 2 post would be much better for access while working, which would be the primary reason for it (not sufficient height to drive another car underneath).
I was at the London Classic Car show this year and happened to come across the Twin Busch stand. I was quite impressed with the quality and their small 2 post is the right dimensions for my garage and the cost is sensible.
The lift is rated at 4.2 T and they recommend a minimum concrete floor thickness of 200 mm. My main use will be TVR / MX5, although the daily driver will go on it for its annual service, but that is less than 2 T. My concrete floor is only 100 mm. I had a structural engineer friend carry out a quick calculation and while he was confident the floor would be strong enough to take the weight (which is no worse than the point load when a car is on axle stands) he was concerned that the outside bolts would be under tension and that would overload the concrete.
Is there a way round this, such as resin or epoxy round the bolts?
I then started thinking about a scissor lift, but have been put off by people telling me that there is very limited access under the car.
Anyone got any thoughts?
Further to my above, I have spoken tot he structural engineer again. There may be a solution.
Assuming there is, what do people think of this?
https://twinbusch.co.uk/product_info.php?products_...
Assuming there is, what do people think of this?
https://twinbusch.co.uk/product_info.php?products_...
Wider steel plate was my first thought, but while it helps with spreading the load it doesn't help with preventing the outside bolts pulling out as they will be in tension.
The possible solution is to expand the diameter of the holes in the concrete and filling them with high strength grout. Calculations are about to be done, and if this wont be sufficient the next thing to look at will be to drill out a section of the existing floor, digging into the hardcore below and then replacing it with thicker concrete.
The possible solution is to expand the diameter of the holes in the concrete and filling them with high strength grout. Calculations are about to be done, and if this wont be sufficient the next thing to look at will be to drill out a section of the existing floor, digging into the hardcore below and then replacing it with thicker concrete.
I'm still sat on the ruddy fence and haven't done anything about this.
But then again, I haven't really been in the garage that much since taking up cycling which is my latest addiction/money pit.
That said, the 2 post lift above looks great value - if you have the floor to support it.
But then again, I haven't really been in the garage that much since taking up cycling which is my latest addiction/money pit.
That said, the 2 post lift above looks great value - if you have the floor to support it.
Barreti said:
I'm still sat on the ruddy fence and haven't done anything about this.
But then again, I haven't really been in the garage that much since taking up cycling which is my latest addiction/money pit.
That said, the 2 post lift above looks great value - if you have the floor to support it.
Hi Ian,But then again, I haven't really been in the garage that much since taking up cycling which is my latest addiction/money pit.
That said, the 2 post lift above looks great value - if you have the floor to support it.
Was it you who sent me the nice metal window / heater switch surrounds about ten years ago?
If it was, you will be pleased to know that I fitted them last weekend and hope to have the car MOTd next month for the first time in 12 years.
Some hoists are available with a 'subframe' for use on less than perfect floors. It's basically a couple of box sections that runs longitudinally for a metre or so for and aft from each post, and bolted down through the floor at the extremities. Downside is a trip hazard (until you get used to it).
There are also those with a structural member joining the posts (carrying the drive shaft from the powered to the unpowered), this reduces inward loading on the bolts into the floor. Downside is a slight hump to drive over.
So you may be able to avoid having to strengthen the floor, simply by selecting an alternative (correct?) type of hoist for your floor.
There are also those with a structural member joining the posts (carrying the drive shaft from the powered to the unpowered), this reduces inward loading on the bolts into the floor. Downside is a slight hump to drive over.
So you may be able to avoid having to strengthen the floor, simply by selecting an alternative (correct?) type of hoist for your floor.
Going through the same thoughts at the moment as my garage build nears completion, had decided upon a small 4 post but talking to the MOT tester and his pal this morning they reckon a two post is a better option even for stacking cars.
In my head a 4 post will be more stable but can see how a 2 post could be more use.
In my head a 4 post will be more stable but can see how a 2 post could be more use.
If you're planning on storing a car on the lift I wouldn't go for a two post. There are plenty of stories on PH about cars twisting and even the lift manufacturers advise against it. Suspension droop can also come into it if you don't remove the wheels. I have seen adapters for two post lifts that fit under the wheels but not sure who makes them.
I have a four post from Strongman Tools with a hydraulic jacking beam to lift the wheels off the ramp when needed. I use it for both storage and maintenance and it's been great.
I have a four post from Strongman Tools with a hydraulic jacking beam to lift the wheels off the ramp when needed. I use it for both storage and maintenance and it's been great.
Mine is for maintenance rather than storage.
In the end I went for a scissor lift instead.
Sorting my garage floor for a 2 post was going to be costly. The scissor lift has the advantage that it is mobile so can be moved about (not with a car on it). It has two disadvantages. Firstly it won’t go as high as a two post, although in my case that doesn’t really apply as it will still get the family estate to within a few inches of the roof joists. The second disadvantage is that access isn’t as good. It would be hopeless for welding sills for example. However, access for suspension work and under the middle of the car (engine / gearbox / diff) is excellent.
Very pleased with it and wish I had bought one years ago.
I went for the Twin Busche item and would recommend it, although I am sure there are plenty of others out there which are just as good. No connection with them other than as a customer.
In the end I went for a scissor lift instead.
Sorting my garage floor for a 2 post was going to be costly. The scissor lift has the advantage that it is mobile so can be moved about (not with a car on it). It has two disadvantages. Firstly it won’t go as high as a two post, although in my case that doesn’t really apply as it will still get the family estate to within a few inches of the roof joists. The second disadvantage is that access isn’t as good. It would be hopeless for welding sills for example. However, access for suspension work and under the middle of the car (engine / gearbox / diff) is excellent.
Very pleased with it and wish I had bought one years ago.
I went for the Twin Busche item and would recommend it, although I am sure there are plenty of others out there which are just as good. No connection with them other than as a customer.
thecook101 said:
If you're planning on storing a car on the lift I wouldn't go for a two post. There are plenty of stories on PH about cars twisting and even the lift manufacturers advise against it. Suspension droop can also come into it if you don't remove the wheels. I have seen adapters for two post lifts that fit under the wheels but not sure who makes them.
I have a four post from Strongman Tools with a hydraulic jacking beam to lift the wheels off the ramp when needed. I use it for both storage and maintenance and it's been great.
Any chance of pointing to these stories cos I have a two post lift and to be honest there is no way the car can twist. Arms are fixed with spacers along a metal runway. there is no play and the manual says if there is any play the spacers are worn and need replacing.I have a four post from Strongman Tools with a hydraulic jacking beam to lift the wheels off the ramp when needed. I use it for both storage and maintenance and it's been great.
I had a four post lift and changed it for a two post because I got frustrated at the lack of access.
I'm sure we could find numerous threads advocating one or the other, here's one. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&... Each to their own I guess but my search a couple years back led me to the conclusion that two posts are better for access, four posts for secure long term storage, add a jacking beam for pretty good access. Also depends on the age and condition of the car to be stored. A quick google image search for 'car storage lift' shows 90% four posts - even though they are more expensive. Must be a reason for that.
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