Tacho is certainly suspect!

Tacho is certainly suspect!

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Discussion

Brithunter

Original Poster:

599 posts

88 months

Thursday 19th April 2018
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When I first picked her up after driving a while, gently as not used to her and because it was ruddy awful wet and cold weather, noticed that the tacho did not seem to be working properly. If stationary in neutral you give it a rev it seems to work but not when driving unless driving with gusto then it seems to wake up. We had a dry afternoon before i left for the train/tunnel and took a friend out and we did get the needle to 5,000 rpm.

However on the drive through Europe it seemed to be not reading as it should again................................ see photos





Am told that the 3,000 mark is normal for 80 mph.



Trouble is mine is not even reading that at 90!



Other gauges seem to work fine.

Any ideas as to what we need to look at to get this working as it should?


Belle427

8,951 posts

233 months

Friday 20th April 2018
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First place to start is the wiring in the engine bay, I believe it’s fed from the coil minus terminal so a good look at wiring in this area will help. It may not be directly connected to the terminal but spliced into the loom near it.
I’ve heard certain types of leads and non resistive spark plugs can also exaggerate the problem.
have these been changed recently?

QBee

20,980 posts

144 months

Friday 20th April 2018
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Let us know what plugs you are running in that case. NGK B7ECS is standard factory fit, but it isn't resistive. Resistive plugs have an "R" in the description.

Brithunter

Original Poster:

599 posts

88 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
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Can only assume that the plugs are correct for the new leads as Heath supplied and fitted both back in September when he was sorting her out for me.

OK just went out and pulled a plug and yes they are indeed NGK R BPR6ES

Had to find an old socket as never replaced my 14mm plug socket but as luck would have it found one of Dad's old long reach Whitworth ones that fit plugs.

QBee

20,980 posts

144 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
quotequote all
Plugs are fine and fit for purpose. Resistive as well, so that rules out interference from the ignition.

Many of us found the colder 7 plugs fouled too easily, I think it was the modern essayist ChimpOnGas who suggested changing them for 6s. Heath and Mat Smith both now fit the 6s at service, having seen the results of people like me using them. They just burn cleaner and stay efficient longer.

Brithunter

Original Poster:

599 posts

88 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
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Right now an a very unhappy chappie just started her up after refitting plug and lead and she hesitated then revved up on her own and then there was this horrible whining. So go a long screwdriver to listen to things with and found it without listening as as I put my hand on top of the alternator it almost burnt me. Am wondering if this may be effecting the tacho?

Damned bearings it seems are shot. So looks like a rebuild or replacement alternator. Just damned lucky it did not go on my drive down. Of course it's now Saturday afternoon so my plans for a little run out in her Sunday are dashed and cannot try to get one until Monday at least.







I find the date interesting as she was registered in July 93, dunno why I thought it was June!!! it's July 1993 so that 12 must be week number rather than month?

Classic Chim

12,424 posts

149 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
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Look on the bright side,,, how old is that.
Long life and I bet it’s only failed from prolonged periods not spinning.
Look on the even sunnier side, how long will you new one last,,, years and years biggrin

Hard lines but she’s just had a shock to the system with that extended drive.
A few other things might show up over time but she seems to be solid and all there thumbup

I like the clocks I must say smile

Classic Chim

12,424 posts

149 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
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If you blip the engine does your tacho go above 3000 ok.

N7GTX

7,865 posts

143 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
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If any of the terminals on the alternator are marked with a P, T or W then it can be used for rev counters/tachos.

Brithunter

Original Poster:

599 posts

88 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
quotequote all
Sorry we have been down to the town for dinner.

Right to answer your questions:-

I did raise this matter with Mat on the Monday she got her new MOT and he tried it in his workshop and the tacho needle did swing up past 3000 andI have had it past 5000 once when showing her off to an old friend in Sussex. It is just not working as it should do!

Before we left I lifted the bonnet and put my hand on the alternator and it was still darned hot so I disconnected the battery and in doing so found the negative terminal bolt lose and a black wire not making proper contact. neither of these would help matters. This reminds me that I need to get a 100 amp fuse and new holder JIC!

Brithunter

Original Poster:

599 posts

88 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
quotequote all
N7GTX said:
If any of the terminals on the alternator are marked with a P, T or W then it can be used for rev counters/tachos.
Until it's removed cannot really see the markings on the back.

QBee

20,980 posts

144 months

Saturday 21st April 2018
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My later car uses a standard Land Rover alternator. I am just wondering if Kevin's 1993 car also uses the standard 1993 alternator?

Brithunter

Original Poster:

599 posts

88 months

Sunday 22nd April 2018
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Have no idea was wondering if it might be advisable to upgrade to a 70 or 75 amp one. Will go to the factors in town Monday with eh photos and numbers and see what they can offer.

Classic Chim

12,424 posts

149 months

Sunday 22nd April 2018
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The sticker off my 2000 year car.
Much more amps !

You might need that wheel off yours so check on the new one



QBee

20,980 posts

144 months

Sunday 22nd April 2018
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This ^^^^^^ is the same as mine.....and mine came off a modern Landrover, as I bought it from Hobson, who take them off new Landrovers prior to upgrading for the military.

So perhaps try for something Landrover?

However, brand new Landrover costs several hundred pounds, so it might be worth one of us sourcing you one and posting it to you. I have a client with a FedEx account who would help at trade cost.

Edited by QBee on Sunday 22 April 07:19

QBee

20,980 posts

144 months

Sunday 22nd April 2018
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Here we go.....available on the Bay of the Flea



QBee

20,980 posts

144 months

Sunday 22nd April 2018
quotequote all
There’s even one here with the correct pulley on it.....


Jon100p

68 posts

107 months

Sunday 22nd April 2018
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Hi I have a '93 (May) and the alternator connection at "W" is not connected as shown in your photo. The small black spade connector is just left hanging and not connected. It looks like nothing has ever been connected there. This is the original alternator and wiring (apart from the battery charger connection I have added).

|https://thumbsnap.com/lxaRgBvB[/url]

Try disconnecting the little black spade connector and see what happens. Everything works fine on mine without it.

Brithunter

Original Poster:

599 posts

88 months

Sunday 22nd April 2018
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Cannot see how disconnecting a terminal will help the bearings?

Anyway left the battery disconnected overnight and now it's reconnected there are no dash LED warning lights illuminating at all. The alternator is putting a charge into the battery if a little low at only 12.7 volts so am considering my options:-

1) buy a replacement from the UK an wait a week to 3 months for it to arrive (yes sometimes things can take that long)

2) Source a replacement locally.

3) Pull this one apart and see what condition it is inside and rebuild if possible.

4) Sell the Chimaera and buy something sensible!

Am going to have to pull all the fuses and check them to make sure none are blown now. She fires up and runs but that alternator starts heating up immediately and while connected to the battery does not seem to cool down unless disconnected. The two LED's top and bottom between the speedo and Tacho used to illuminate then one packed in after I swapped the stereo head unit, wonder if I pulled something off?, and now the other has packed in the centre yellow one is the oil pressure light which wa snot working but the spade connector had come off. Have put it back on and lamp is working now again.

Pulled all the fuses one at a time and found none blown.

QBee

20,980 posts

144 months

Sunday 22nd April 2018
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That sounds like the alternator has shorted to earth and is pulling major amps from the battery. I would be worried about the fire risk. And buggering your battery.

Those alternators I showed on EBay are standard LR Defender diesel alternators.......the sort of thing that even a Bulgarian motor factor could source. If they cannot, I am happy to receive one ordered from EBay in the U.K. and organise a fast FedEx type delivery if you need that.

And yes, of course you could always buy something boring and sensible. You saw my shed collection when you stayed at mine. All my other cars have 160,000 miles+ each on them. Sensible for a man doing 35,000 miles a year. The TVR is there to put the fun back into motoring.