Discussion
I'm looking to purchase a good S2 in the near future but storage options are limited. The garage has another car in it which must be dry stored and the local car storage place costs a fortune. I could just cover it in the drive for the limited use it's going to get, but are there are any other affordable and effective solutions? I've seen the cacoon covers and they're not ideal. Suggestions welcome!
Maybe not very cost effective, but if you have the headroom, it might be an option....
The 4-post lift is around £3k to buy, my roof truss work cost me about £200 in timber. As my garage is small, the up & over door had to go as it intruded too much. The roller door was around £1k... I did all of the work myself.
So now I can store x2 sportcars in the dry, plus better underneath access as and when I need it.
T.
The 4-post lift is around £3k to buy, my roof truss work cost me about £200 in timber. As my garage is small, the up & over door had to go as it intruded too much. The roller door was around £1k... I did all of the work myself.
So now I can store x2 sportcars in the dry, plus better underneath access as and when I need it.
T.
Yes, mine is a detached garage in the front garden.
And the pitched roof is from front to back.
However a car friend of mine, took the general idea and adapted it to suit his side to side pitched roof. The roof being shared with neighbours garage. A semi so to speak.
He built a low level dormer on his side. Which faces his garden so no planning issues.
And now he gets increased natural light too.
However the cost went up another notch or three !
T.
And the pitched roof is from front to back.
However a car friend of mine, took the general idea and adapted it to suit his side to side pitched roof. The roof being shared with neighbours garage. A semi so to speak.
He built a low level dormer on his side. Which faces his garden so no planning issues.
And now he gets increased natural light too.
However the cost went up another notch or three !
T.
I assume you mean the lift.
Its a company in Rugeley Staffs, called Automotech Services.
Just Google it for their website.
I am only 10 miles from them, so I collected mine. I don't remember seeing anything erected there.
But their website and catalogue are pretty good.
I don't mind you coming to see my setup, if it helps.
Ws7 in staffs.
T.
Its a company in Rugeley Staffs, called Automotech Services.
Just Google it for their website.
I am only 10 miles from them, so I collected mine. I don't remember seeing anything erected there.
But their website and catalogue are pretty good.
I don't mind you coming to see my setup, if it helps.
Ws7 in staffs.
T.
Edited by Blue 30 on Sunday 25th August 19:14
After a few phone calls to some local building companies... Who all wanted to erect scaffolding, remove the existing roof & replace. Then present me with a huge £££ bill. I thought it might be game over even before it starts. However one company did mention that they would require the services bof a structural engineer to plan the work... Mmmm, that got me thinking !
Why don't I contact a structural engineer. More internet searching for one of those in our local. At the first attempt/call, a lady asked to explain what I had & what was I planning on doing. She was brilliant, over the phone she explained what and how I should introduce new wood, before I cut any old away.
So I did just that, then fingers firmly crossed, I started cutting !!!!
The saw didn't jam, the gap didn't open up on any cut... Phew.
I definitely owe her a beer or three.
So, after about 3-4 days, I had converted a truss roof, into a A-frame vaulted roof.
And gained the increased/required headroom... Don't quote me, but that was about 11' 6" in old money.
I can only state the principles of the job here. So if you are now considering doing similar, I strongly suggest, you do get professional advice.
You are welcome to come & see mine, just pm me first.
WS7 in Staffs.
T.
Why don't I contact a structural engineer. More internet searching for one of those in our local. At the first attempt/call, a lady asked to explain what I had & what was I planning on doing. She was brilliant, over the phone she explained what and how I should introduce new wood, before I cut any old away.
So I did just that, then fingers firmly crossed, I started cutting !!!!
The saw didn't jam, the gap didn't open up on any cut... Phew.
I definitely owe her a beer or three.
So, after about 3-4 days, I had converted a truss roof, into a A-frame vaulted roof.
And gained the increased/required headroom... Don't quote me, but that was about 11' 6" in old money.
I can only state the principles of the job here. So if you are now considering doing similar, I strongly suggest, you do get professional advice.
You are welcome to come & see mine, just pm me first.
WS7 in Staffs.
T.
Edited by Blue 30 on Tuesday 27th August 15:43
I have done a similar thing in my garage. I had a structural engineer draw me up some plans, design and spec then did the works myself with my dad for one weekend. He was a plaster/builder for 25 years.
We put a 7m steel in from front to back. A small steel in on the back wall with vertical structural timbers from the top of the steel to the rafters. Then various horixontal structural timber purlings from posts tied into the out gable wall. Then cut out all the trusses. on that side/half of the garage.
I tried to find a builder to do it but none seemed really interested in such a small job. So ended up doing it myself.
I put a long/wide 4 post lift on that side then the other side I now have a scissor lift. Really pleased and works really well.
We put a 7m steel in from front to back. A small steel in on the back wall with vertical structural timbers from the top of the steel to the rafters. Then various horixontal structural timber purlings from posts tied into the out gable wall. Then cut out all the trusses. on that side/half of the garage.
I tried to find a builder to do it but none seemed really interested in such a small job. So ended up doing it myself.
I put a long/wide 4 post lift on that side then the other side I now have a scissor lift. Really pleased and works really well.
Now that's a garage to kill for....
Mine is about 8' 6" by 18' max internally.
Did I mention that I even had to assemble the 4-post lift piece by piece in its final position. There were barely inches to spare.
And crikey they are heavy, and I do mean blxxdy heavy. So you work safety first when there's no where to run !!
I also had to remove the motor unit and fluid reservoir from one of the posts.
And remote mount it onto the garage wall, with an extended hose line.
All worth while though..
Oh, you should make sure your concrete floor is up to the job.
A 4-post lift isn't so bad, but if you are thinking about a 2-post lift, it needs a very deep concrete base.... Follow the lift's directions on that one religiously !!
T.
Mine is about 8' 6" by 18' max internally.
Did I mention that I even had to assemble the 4-post lift piece by piece in its final position. There were barely inches to spare.
And crikey they are heavy, and I do mean blxxdy heavy. So you work safety first when there's no where to run !!
I also had to remove the motor unit and fluid reservoir from one of the posts.
And remote mount it onto the garage wall, with an extended hose line.
All worth while though..
Oh, you should make sure your concrete floor is up to the job.
A 4-post lift isn't so bad, but if you are thinking about a 2-post lift, it needs a very deep concrete base.... Follow the lift's directions on that one religiously !!
T.
Edited by Blue 30 on Tuesday 27th August 20:17
All really helpful comments and photos.
Photo of my garage shown. Current car is 1.2m high, new car will be the same. Height of garage to lowest point is 2.4m, rising steadily to c4m. Hence you can see my challenge - how to reconfigure the roof just a bit to allow space for stacked cars. Going to call a roofer in the morning and maybe a structural engineer.
Photo of my garage shown. Current car is 1.2m high, new car will be the same. Height of garage to lowest point is 2.4m, rising steadily to c4m. Hence you can see my challenge - how to reconfigure the roof just a bit to allow space for stacked cars. Going to call a roofer in the morning and maybe a structural engineer.
My advice is, don't do anything quickly, and definitely don't go buying any big budget items just yet.
Get yourself a couple of lift company catalogues, this will give you good dimensions to consider & work to. Plus their price lists too.
The NEC November classic car show usually has a garage equipment section.
My garage walls still have the chalk marks, of what I needed in min/max vertical car stacking space. Plus what/ where my chosen lift (automotech) length/width/height came to.
And only then, plus a few restless nights before commiting, did I start the project.
I bought and had fitted the garage roller door first.... Check interior space again.
Then I did the roof mods... Check the space again.
And then I bought and fitted the lift...
That took a hire van to collect it, two of us plus my engine hoist to get it out of the van piece by piece, then lay it out and assemble it into each sections final position.
It was a hard and full days labour. Plus another for me to do the floor bolts and do the motor unit re siting etc.
If you have enough room, the automotech units come with loose wheel assemblies, which could mean you could pre assemble the whole thing, then wheel it into position.
But, yes, that's a great idea to get a builder, and structural engineer onboard now.
Good luck, have fun and don't get spending too early !!
T.
Get yourself a couple of lift company catalogues, this will give you good dimensions to consider & work to. Plus their price lists too.
The NEC November classic car show usually has a garage equipment section.
My garage walls still have the chalk marks, of what I needed in min/max vertical car stacking space. Plus what/ where my chosen lift (automotech) length/width/height came to.
And only then, plus a few restless nights before commiting, did I start the project.
I bought and had fitted the garage roller door first.... Check interior space again.
Then I did the roof mods... Check the space again.
And then I bought and fitted the lift...
That took a hire van to collect it, two of us plus my engine hoist to get it out of the van piece by piece, then lay it out and assemble it into each sections final position.
It was a hard and full days labour. Plus another for me to do the floor bolts and do the motor unit re siting etc.
If you have enough room, the automotech units come with loose wheel assemblies, which could mean you could pre assemble the whole thing, then wheel it into position.
But, yes, that's a great idea to get a builder, and structural engineer onboard now.
Good luck, have fun and don't get spending too early !!
T.
rockits said:
I have done a similar thing in my garage. I had a structural engineer draw me up some plans, design and spec then did the works myself with my dad for one weekend. He was a plaster/builder for 25 years.
We put a 7m steel in from front to back. A small steel in on the back wall with vertical structural timbers from the top of the steel to the rafters. Then various horixontal structural timber purlings from posts tied into the out gable wall. Then cut out all the trusses. on that side/half of the garage.
I tried to find a builder to do it but none seemed really interested in such a small job. So ended up doing it myself.
I put a long/wide 4 post lift on that side then the other side I now have a scissor lift. Really pleased and works really well.
Sorry to hijack the thread but I am looking for something that will enable me to raise my cars a few feet so I can work under them more comfortably. What are the ramps that the Chimera is sitting on?We put a 7m steel in from front to back. A small steel in on the back wall with vertical structural timbers from the top of the steel to the rafters. Then various horixontal structural timber purlings from posts tied into the out gable wall. Then cut out all the trusses. on that side/half of the garage.
I tried to find a builder to do it but none seemed really interested in such a small job. So ended up doing it myself.
I put a long/wide 4 post lift on that side then the other side I now have a scissor lift. Really pleased and works really well.
Here's my solution:
And with the car raised 600mm to let me re-seal the fuel tank sender yet again:
The scissor lift is from BGE. I bought it (on Ebay) from an ex-Chimaera owner, in nearly-new condition, for £750. I had to go and collect it, though, and it takes some moving!
The timber runways came with it from the Chim guy: they're needed because there's no way the cars will pass over the lift without them. But the car lives on the runways in the garage, and they make jobs in the cockpit and under the bonnet easier too. Park in the right place (there's a block of wood at the front to make sure) and the bonnet opens way beyond vertical!
The runways are simply made from scaffold plank, with 150x47PSE sides and 100x47 cross-pieces underneath.
With the top down (which is most of the time) I can lift the car another 300mm under the garage door. If I raise the electric door track, then I can get yet another 300mm with the door closed. But I'd rather work on the car!
The lift operates on the chassis only, so it's of no use for tracking etc. There are several sets of adjustable height pads, and for for brakes, springs, chassis, exhaust it's a joy. And with the bonnet off and an engine crane, even taking the engine out isn't too bad.
For a DIY fanatic, 69 years old and doubly rheumatic, this setup makes S ownership possible. I'd recommend it to anyone.
If you'd like more photos or dimensions etc., let me know.
And with the car raised 600mm to let me re-seal the fuel tank sender yet again:
The scissor lift is from BGE. I bought it (on Ebay) from an ex-Chimaera owner, in nearly-new condition, for £750. I had to go and collect it, though, and it takes some moving!
The timber runways came with it from the Chim guy: they're needed because there's no way the cars will pass over the lift without them. But the car lives on the runways in the garage, and they make jobs in the cockpit and under the bonnet easier too. Park in the right place (there's a block of wood at the front to make sure) and the bonnet opens way beyond vertical!
The runways are simply made from scaffold plank, with 150x47PSE sides and 100x47 cross-pieces underneath.
With the top down (which is most of the time) I can lift the car another 300mm under the garage door. If I raise the electric door track, then I can get yet another 300mm with the door closed. But I'd rather work on the car!
The lift operates on the chassis only, so it's of no use for tracking etc. There are several sets of adjustable height pads, and for for brakes, springs, chassis, exhaust it's a joy. And with the bonnet off and an engine crane, even taking the engine out isn't too bad.
For a DIY fanatic, 69 years old and doubly rheumatic, this setup makes S ownership possible. I'd recommend it to anyone.
If you'd like more photos or dimensions etc., let me know.
No, It doesn't help with storage. I'm responding to the hijack!
I haven't used axle stands since I got the lift, except at the hubs to compress the suspension to get a first try at the ride height, before tightening the suspension bush bolts. You wouldn't have anywhere to put the stands under the chassis, and anyway moving the lift out from under the car would be a non-trivial task! The lift easily gives better confidence and security than stands, for working underneath the car. It has a simple and robust (and visible!) safety ratchet.
I haven't yet found anything I can't do, The rubber-covered jacking pads have a set of extensions giving a space from the frame of the lift to the point chosen on the car, of 35(min)/100/175/250/325/400mm. There's only space to fit the 35/100/175 options with my car on the runways, but if I needed more space I would jack the car off the runways first, one corner at a time. The only time i've needed as much as 175mm is to drop the exhaust, or the gearbox back-end to remove the engine. Usually the car is parked over the lift with the 100mm jobs in place.
Suggest an operation, and I'll try to imagine if it's do-able. Or you're welcome to take a look, anytime you're in the West Country.
I haven't used axle stands since I got the lift, except at the hubs to compress the suspension to get a first try at the ride height, before tightening the suspension bush bolts. You wouldn't have anywhere to put the stands under the chassis, and anyway moving the lift out from under the car would be a non-trivial task! The lift easily gives better confidence and security than stands, for working underneath the car. It has a simple and robust (and visible!) safety ratchet.
I haven't yet found anything I can't do, The rubber-covered jacking pads have a set of extensions giving a space from the frame of the lift to the point chosen on the car, of 35(min)/100/175/250/325/400mm. There's only space to fit the 35/100/175 options with my car on the runways, but if I needed more space I would jack the car off the runways first, one corner at a time. The only time i've needed as much as 175mm is to drop the exhaust, or the gearbox back-end to remove the engine. Usually the car is parked over the lift with the 100mm jobs in place.
Suggest an operation, and I'll try to imagine if it's do-able. Or you're welcome to take a look, anytime you're in the West Country.
Again, responding to hi jack, not original thread.
I initially wanted a 4 post ramp, but worked out that it wouldn't help with storage due to a lack of headroom.
Then I wanted a 2 post ramp, but worked out my garage floor was not thick enough.
In the end I bought a scissor lift
https://twinbusch.co.uk/product_info.php?products_...
I was a bit in two minds, but with hindsight, I only wish I had done it years ago.
This model is also portable if you buy the wheel kit to go with it. It means I can move it round the garage, although most of the time it sits in one place and I park over it. As said above, on a low car, it makes everything that bit easier. Their "low ride ramps" were a bit pricey, so for the TVR and mx5 I use a couple of bits of 4X2 to drive onto the ramp.
All the advantages stated above apply. I also havnt used axle stands or a trolley jack since (well, I have, but only on the landrover as it is too tall to go on the lift in the garage). It lifts a metre high and is so much quicker than using a jack and axle stands. & at that height, so much easier to work under. I emphasised the safety aspect to justify the cost to the wife.
The downsides? Yes it is a bit pricey, but the amount of time saved will easily pay that off. It would be useless if you wanted to do anything to outriggers (or sills on a normal car). It also lifts under the outriggers so if you are concerned about them, that may be a disadvantage. I take the view that at MOT time, any car is lifted by sills or outriggers, so it "should" be OK. Indeed if you go to a garage they will use a two post ramp and lift there. In my case, I have recently done a body off so I am confident that the outriggers are fine.
I initially wanted a 4 post ramp, but worked out that it wouldn't help with storage due to a lack of headroom.
Then I wanted a 2 post ramp, but worked out my garage floor was not thick enough.
In the end I bought a scissor lift
https://twinbusch.co.uk/product_info.php?products_...
I was a bit in two minds, but with hindsight, I only wish I had done it years ago.
This model is also portable if you buy the wheel kit to go with it. It means I can move it round the garage, although most of the time it sits in one place and I park over it. As said above, on a low car, it makes everything that bit easier. Their "low ride ramps" were a bit pricey, so for the TVR and mx5 I use a couple of bits of 4X2 to drive onto the ramp.
All the advantages stated above apply. I also havnt used axle stands or a trolley jack since (well, I have, but only on the landrover as it is too tall to go on the lift in the garage). It lifts a metre high and is so much quicker than using a jack and axle stands. & at that height, so much easier to work under. I emphasised the safety aspect to justify the cost to the wife.
The downsides? Yes it is a bit pricey, but the amount of time saved will easily pay that off. It would be useless if you wanted to do anything to outriggers (or sills on a normal car). It also lifts under the outriggers so if you are concerned about them, that may be a disadvantage. I take the view that at MOT time, any car is lifted by sills or outriggers, so it "should" be OK. Indeed if you go to a garage they will use a two post ramp and lift there. In my case, I have recently done a body off so I am confident that the outriggers are fine.
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