Do these brakes pipes need doing and what to do with them?
Discussion
Hi,
I took my shed to the dealership for a recall. They said it needs brake pipes replacing due to corrosion and gave me video of the the corrosion. Looking at the video and talking to the tech only the bits near the front tyres seem corroded. I took off the front tyres and took some pics.
My question is do they look like they need doing and if so can I just replace the bits near the tyre (the rest of the pipes have that black plastic on them and have no corrosion)?
I took my shed to the dealership for a recall. They said it needs brake pipes replacing due to corrosion and gave me video of the the corrosion. Looking at the video and talking to the tech only the bits near the front tyres seem corroded. I took off the front tyres and took some pics.
My question is do they look like they need doing and if so can I just replace the bits near the tyre (the rest of the pipes have that black plastic on them and have no corrosion)?
The bare bit of steel pipe after the plastic coating is shagged and certainly a fail.
The ferrules on the flexis look a bit rough but are ok for now I’d say as long as the rubber isn’t cracked, then that’s a fail aswell.
You can cut the steel pipes back, re-end them and make up a short length of copper pipe but by the time you’ve done that, you’d probably just be aswell replacing the full pipe.
It shouldn’t be too expensive.
The ferrules on the flexis look a bit rough but are ok for now I’d say as long as the rubber isn’t cracked, then that’s a fail aswell.
You can cut the steel pipes back, re-end them and make up a short length of copper pipe but by the time you’ve done that, you’d probably just be aswell replacing the full pipe.
It shouldn’t be too expensive.
Those have pretty serious rust. Under the plastic they're likely OK but the exposed ends would be an mot fail (Imho).
Dont bother cutting and joining, just get them both replaced with copper.
The ferrules on the hoses don't look too bad, clean them up with a wire brush and apply a smear of copper grease. Having said that a pair of hoses won't set you back much and can be done along with the pipes.
Youre not being fed porkies to extract work, the garage is right..
Dont bother cutting and joining, just get them both replaced with copper.
The ferrules on the hoses don't look too bad, clean them up with a wire brush and apply a smear of copper grease. Having said that a pair of hoses won't set you back much and can be done along with the pipes.
Youre not being fed porkies to extract work, the garage is right..
You could.
But you have no idea how far the corrosion has spread underneath the plastic sheathing & you won't know until you start peeling it back.
Once you've cut back to sound metal you will then need to flare the steel pipe. You will need a flaring tool capable of doing steel & that doesn't really include the cheap ones.
If you have a flaring tool capable of doing it on the vehicle you'll be OK but tbh unless there is a major access issue to the old brake piping - & you can see the difficult to access pipe is in good condition - you'll be a lot better replacing the whole pipe.
But you have no idea how far the corrosion has spread underneath the plastic sheathing & you won't know until you start peeling it back.
Once you've cut back to sound metal you will then need to flare the steel pipe. You will need a flaring tool capable of doing steel & that doesn't really include the cheap ones.
If you have a flaring tool capable of doing it on the vehicle you'll be OK but tbh unless there is a major access issue to the old brake piping - & you can see the difficult to access pipe is in good condition - you'll be a lot better replacing the whole pipe.
paintman said:
You could.
But you have no idea how far the corrosion has spread underneath the plastic sheathing & you won't know until you start peeling it back.
Once you've cut back to sound metal you will then need to flare the steel pipe. You will need a flaring tool capable of doing steel & that doesn't really include the cheap ones.
If you have a flaring tool capable of doing it on the vehicle you'll be OK but tbh unless there is a major access issue to the old brake piping - & you can see the difficult to access pipe is in good condition - you'll be a lot better replacing the whole pipe.
Agree with this. But you have no idea how far the corrosion has spread underneath the plastic sheathing & you won't know until you start peeling it back.
Once you've cut back to sound metal you will then need to flare the steel pipe. You will need a flaring tool capable of doing steel & that doesn't really include the cheap ones.
If you have a flaring tool capable of doing it on the vehicle you'll be OK but tbh unless there is a major access issue to the old brake piping - & you can see the difficult to access pipe is in good condition - you'll be a lot better replacing the whole pipe.
Until you know the condition of the pipe under the plastic you cannot make a judgement on its condition. And then to flare it correctly will be a lot harder than flaring a pipe on a bench.
The point made about joining it like that is ok, as long as the pipe is sound and the tools are available.
For somebody who is not sure if the pipe needed replacing then I suggest they will also be unaware as to how to flare the pipe correctly too.
A full replacement pipe is not that bad a job, unless any of the pipe is hidden out of sight and reach.
Went to mechanic and showed him pics, he asked me to bring it in next week but said it'll probably only need what's pictured below for £25 per corner for labour with copper pipe.
Sounds a bit steep for just making a small join on each corner, new brake hoses etc will be extra if needed. I'm up north where costs are a bit less so I thought new pipes top to bottom including labour would cost around £100 with extra for hoses etc, but it's going to cost £100 for 4 small joins by the looks of things
Sounds a bit steep for just making a small join on each corner, new brake hoses etc will be extra if needed. I'm up north where costs are a bit less so I thought new pipes top to bottom including labour would cost around £100 with extra for hoses etc, but it's going to cost £100 for 4 small joins by the looks of things
In fairness, you could easily spend up to an hour on each one - depending on how hard it is to get the old pipes disconnected - followed by forming and connecting the pipes.
It's the sort of job I'd rather price on the high side - it's easier to knock a bit off the bill than to ask for more!
Edit: If you're replacing the flexibles as well you might save a bit of time as you don't have to worry about damage when dismantling!
Plus you need to bleed the system afterwards. Is this included in the price maybe?
It's the sort of job I'd rather price on the high side - it's easier to knock a bit off the bill than to ask for more!
Edit: If you're replacing the flexibles as well you might save a bit of time as you don't have to worry about damage when dismantling!
Plus you need to bleed the system afterwards. Is this included in the price maybe?
Edited by sunbeam alpine on Monday 8th June 21:58
sunbeam alpine said:
In fairness, you could easily spend up to an hour on each one - depending on how hard it is to get the old pipes disconnected - followed by forming and connecting the pipes.
It's the sort of job I'd rather price on the high side - it's easier to knock a bit off the bill than to ask for more!
Edit: If you're replacing the flexibles as well you might save a bit of time as you don't have to worry about damage when dismantling!
Plus you need to bleed the system afterwards. Is this included in the price maybe?
The £25 per corner is for the joint with new copper pipe to the old pipe as in the pic and bleeding the system. He said her can't use steel or cupronickel (cunifer) as he needs to bend it and copper is only one he can use or is it not proper to mix metals when connecting pipes together?It's the sort of job I'd rather price on the high side - it's easier to knock a bit off the bill than to ask for more!
Edit: If you're replacing the flexibles as well you might save a bit of time as you don't have to worry about damage when dismantling!
Plus you need to bleed the system afterwards. Is this included in the price maybe?
Edited by sunbeam alpine on Monday 8th June 21:58
I was thinking of buying some delphi brake hoses just in case they are needed and return them if not. The local dealers sell Borg and Beck brake hose pipes and I've never heard of them. I try to fit quality stuff so the job doesn't have to be done again.
PistonAFC said:
Went to mechanic and showed him pics, he asked me to bring it in next week but said it'll probably only need what's pictured below for £25 per corner for labour with copper pipe.
Sounds a bit steep for just making a small join on each corner, new brake hoses etc will be extra if needed. I'm up north where costs are a bit less so I thought new pipes top to bottom including labour would cost around £100 with extra for hoses etc, but it's going to cost £100 for 4 small joins by the looks of things
Sounds steep ? do it yourself then.Sounds a bit steep for just making a small join on each corner, new brake hoses etc will be extra if needed. I'm up north where costs are a bit less so I thought new pipes top to bottom including labour would cost around £100 with extra for hoses etc, but it's going to cost £100 for 4 small joins by the looks of things
I know I sure as hell wouldn't do it for that price, and very possible it may also need flexis depending if the nut is seized into them
PistonAFC said:
The £25 per corner is for the joint with new copper pipe to the old pipe as in the pic and bleeding the system. He said her can't use steel or cupronickel (cunifer) as he needs to bend it and copper is only one he can use or is it not proper to mix metals when connecting pipes together?
I was thinking of buying some delphi brake hoses just in case they are needed and return them if not. The local dealers sell Borg and Beck brake hose pipes and I've never heard of them. I try to fit quality stuff so the job doesn't have to be done again.
Kunifer is better, but a little harder to bend. Copper is the easy way out for everyone, and it's fine.I was thinking of buying some delphi brake hoses just in case they are needed and return them if not. The local dealers sell Borg and Beck brake hose pipes and I've never heard of them. I try to fit quality stuff so the job doesn't have to be done again.
Steel...no chance.
But you cannot join copper to copper directly, hence the steel jointer in the middle. ( generally there should always be a proper jointing piece if two pipes need joined. )
And you buying parts is foolish, because if you buy the wrong parts and your car is stuck on his ramp because of it, IMO he would be quite right in charging for more time to source the right parts.
Let the garage source the parts, then any issues and warranty are all on them ( assuming a legit garage )
As for Borg & Beck...seriously ? Have a google. They've probably been around longer than you.
sunbeam alpine said:
In fairness, you could easily spend up to an hour on each one - depending on how hard it is to get the old pipes disconnected - followed by forming and connecting the pipes.
It's the sort of job I'd rather price on the high side - it's easier to knock a bit off the bill than to ask for more!
Edit: If you're replacing the flexibles as well you might save a bit of time as you don't have to worry about damage when dismantling!
Plus you need to bleed the system afterwards. Is this included in the price maybe?
If it takes an hour , isn't it better to just run a new pipes back to front? How much extra time would it take to do full pipes compared to just 4 individual corners.It's the sort of job I'd rather price on the high side - it's easier to knock a bit off the bill than to ask for more!
Edit: If you're replacing the flexibles as well you might save a bit of time as you don't have to worry about damage when dismantling!
Plus you need to bleed the system afterwards. Is this included in the price maybe?
Edited by sunbeam alpine on Monday 8th June 21:58
If brake hoses are needed for each corner then that will push the cost to around £200 which may make the car uneconomical to repair as car is only worth around £1000-1200 and may be I can sell it for > £1000 in its present state and save myself some hassle.
Depends on the car really, on my E92 M3 I’m st scared of damaging the hose on the front left as from what I can make out if it’s not an engine out job to replace it then it’s definitely bonnet off and a major reconstruction of the back of the engine bay
Plus BMW will only sell you a straight hose to the right length and the routing is epically convoluted, itd take you hours to copy it properly
Plus BMW will only sell you a straight hose to the right length and the routing is epically convoluted, itd take you hours to copy it properly
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