Wheel spacer/extended bolts

Wheel spacer/extended bolts

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Discussion

chan61922

Original Poster:

535 posts

61 months

Monday 15th February 2021
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Morning guys

So currently have following set up 19inch 5x112, et44 and 8.5j, 11mm spacers front and 16mm spacers rear with extended bolts in

Hoping to put the stock wheels back on which are 19inch 5x112, et50 and 8j. Again with 11mm spacers front and 16mm rear.

Question is would going from 8.5j to a 8j mean I require slightly longer bolts? And would the et make a difference has et44 is wider than a et50. I forget the exact measurement of the extended bolts I have as there currently on the car and I need to fish out the invoice if I can find the sodding thing. Stock bolts I believe are 26/27mm so I previously had the 8j and et50 wheels in with not spacers and 26/27mm bolts


Hope this makes sense, confusing myself here lol any help appreciated

Cheers

B'stard Child

28,321 posts

245 months

Monday 15th February 2021
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You need ~8 turns (min) of engagement in the hubs

So ~12mm of bolt length thro wheel and spacer


chan61922

Original Poster:

535 posts

61 months

Monday 15th February 2021
quotequote all
Thanks mate, problem is I’m having new tyres fitted at Same time and plan to do the swap during that window, fitter will more than likely use a impact drill

DaveyBoyWonder

2,466 posts

173 months

Monday 15th February 2021
quotequote all
chan61922 said:
Morning guys

So currently have following set up 19inch 5x112, et44 and 8.5j, 11mm spacers front and 16mm spacers rear with extended bolts in

Hoping to put the stock wheels back on which are 19inch 5x112, et50 and 8j. Again with 11mm spacers front and 16mm rear.

Question is would going from 8.5j to a 8j mean I require slightly longer bolts? And would the et make a difference has et44 is wider than a et50. I forget the exact measurement of the extended bolts I have as there currently on the car and I need to fish out the invoice if I can find the sodding thing. Stock bolts I believe are 26/27mm so I previously had the 8j and et50 wheels in with not spacers and 26/27mm bolts


Hope this makes sense, confusing myself here lol any help appreciated

Cheers
OK, changing the wheel width won't mean you need longer/shorter bolts. The distance on the wheel from the bolt seat to the hub should be pretty much a standard'ish depth. Easiest way to double check (and I suggest you do double check!) is to remove a wheel and shove a bolt through the old and new wheels and measure how much of the thread is poking out the back. Should be the same give or take a few mm.

Secondly, et44 isn't wider than et50 - thats the offset. If the wheels were the same width, an et44 wheel would poke 6mm further out than an et50 wheel. An et50/8" wide wheel will have about 10mm less poke than an et44/8.5" wheel.

chan61922

Original Poster:

535 posts

61 months

Monday 15th February 2021
quotequote all
Many thanks for helpful response, I can confirm the bolts on the wheel at the min (extended bolts) are 40mm front and 45mm rear, based on them numbers you think it will be enough? As I said no issue whatsoever on a 19inch et44 8.5j with spacers added

aka_kerrly

12,415 posts

209 months

Monday 15th February 2021
quotequote all
If you wheel is 7,8,9 or 10inch wide the wheel nut will be the same length, the nut will sit deeper into the wheel and have the same number of threads in the hub.

If you are running non hub centric spacers then the 16mm wide spacer will dictate the need a longer wheel nut NOT the width of the wheel.

Thus with the 8j wide or 8.5j wide wheel the nuts are the same. The ET which is the offset is how far in (+et) or out (-et) the wheel sits from the Centreline of the wheel.

Hence if 2 wheels are the same width wheel in inches one with a 40et will sit further OUT away from the hub than the 50et wheel

Therefore your spacers and extended nuts belong together, if you aren't using the spacers then use your original nuts with the original wheels.

chan61922

Original Poster:

535 posts

61 months

Monday 15th February 2021
quotequote all
Thanks for the helpful input, in still slighty confused if I’m honest lol not in the things you say but wether or not they will fit. I guess the only way to find out is through trial and error. I’m having them changed out and fitted Tommorrow, think the best thing to do is just take the stock bolts with me and the spacers and extended bolts, I can’t see it being a issue, 27mm (stock) fits fine with the addition of 11mm (38mm front) and 40mm extended bolt, and tears 27mm (stock) with addition of 16mm spacer (43mm rear) and a 45mm extended bolt, should be fine on paper, I’l think I’m just lettting the ET figure confuse me, when in reality the only thing is should be looking as is the inner wheel face been bolted up to the hub

B'stard Child

28,321 posts

245 months

Monday 15th February 2021
quotequote all
chan61922 said:
Thanks for the helpful input, in still slighty confused if I’m honest lol not in the things you say but wether or not they will fit. I guess the only way to find out is through trial and error. I’m having them changed out and fitted Tommorrow, think the best thing to do is just take the stock bolts with me and the spacers and extended bolts, I can’t see it being a issue, 27mm (stock) fits fine with the addition of 11mm (38mm front) and 40mm extended bolt, and tears 27mm (stock) with addition of 16mm spacer (43mm rear) and a 45mm extended bolt, should be fine on paper, I’l think I’m just lettting the ET figure confuse me, when in reality the only thing is should be looking as is the inner wheel face been bolted up to the hub
I assume both sets of wheels are OE wheels?

ET means nothing in the context of the change other than how Outset or Inset the wheels will be compared to the current ones

You can easily check out the situation on the bolts

Jack up front on one side

Lower jack to crack off wheel bolts

Jack up car again

Undo one wheel and remove spacer

putting spacer on back of the wheel push one wheel bolt thro a hole and measure amount of thread poking thro (Measurement A) - doesn't have to be super accurate a plastic ruler will do

Take new wheel put spacer on the back and push one bolt thro a hole and measure amount of thread poking thro (Measurement B)

If A = B Happy days

If A is less than B (shorten bolts by the difference)

If B is less than A you might need longer bolts

Replace wheel with spacer

Repeat the process with rear wheel

chan61922

Original Poster:

535 posts

61 months

Monday 15th February 2021
quotequote all
Genius lol only I don’t fancy going out a d jacking the car up to check at this hour, the neighbours will surely think I’ve finally lost it lol I have work during the day tommorrow and wheels booked in to be done in the evening so sod it I’ll just see what happens, worst case scenario I’ll just go spacer free. The wheels going back on are OE the ones coming off are aftermarket sparcos. Thought it would make more sense to get my new PS4s tyres on the OE wheels

B'stard Child

28,321 posts

245 months

Tuesday 16th February 2021
quotequote all
chan61922 said:
Genius lol only I don’t fancy going out a d jacking the car up to check at this hour, the neighbours will surely think I’ve finally lost it lol I have work during the day tommorrow and wheels booked in to be done in the evening so sod it I’ll just see what happens,
Sod it - that's always a really good plan biggrin

chan61922 said:
worst case scenario I’ll just go spacer free.
If the rear discs have an internal handbrake mechanism inside - it's quite good fun when you wind in longer bolts than the wheels actually need - the cracking noise eventually goes away biggrin

chan61922 said:
The wheels going back on are OE the ones coming off are aftermarket sparcos. Thought it would make more sense to get my new PS4s tyres on the OE wheels
Pay careful attention to the wheel bolts and wheel bolt seats on the wheels

They aren't always mix and match...........

aka_kerrly

12,415 posts

209 months

Tuesday 16th February 2021
quotequote all
For now, completely FORGET about your spacers and just consider this,..

this is the difference that 1/2" an inch of WIDTH and 6mm of OFFSET have on the positioning of the wheel in the arch.

the CURRENT setup is with your 8.5J ET 44 and the NEW setup is your 8J and ET50




chan61922

Original Poster:

535 posts

61 months

Tuesday 16th February 2021
quotequote all
Thanks for help guys, so based on that pic the only thing affected with a different offset is the poke outside the arch? Hub mating go inner wheel face remains unchanged?

I have no idea if I have a handbrake mechanism on the rear wheel set up, the car does come with an electronic handbrake though? The actual wheel bolts are the same type I think radius seat from a reputable company too, had my current sparco wheel and spacer set up for almost a year now no issues whatsoever, just about if I get enough turn into the hub and if the bolt itself fully goes in, based on the pic above should be okay I think

aka_kerrly

12,415 posts

209 months

Tuesday 16th February 2021
quotequote all
chan61922 said:
Thanks for help guys, so based on that pic the only thing affected with a different offset is the poke outside the arch? Hub mating go inner wheel face remains unchanged?
Imagine drawing a line down the middle of the wheel width ways - ET0 would mean that the hub is in the middle of the wheels width


Your HIGHER offset FACTORY wheel sits further INSIDE the arch , the LOWER the offset the more the wheel will stick out, this will be achieved by putting the spacer on.

Since your OEM setup without spacers and your Sparco wheels with spacers clear your brakes , your OEM wheels + spacers will still clear your brakes as they would be being pushed away.

As long as your OEM wheel nuts and the the extended nuts have the same taper design/size you are good to go. Are the extended nuts the same 17/19mm as the OEM nuts as well . Only Ive come across situations where aftermarket wheel nuts have a larger head eg 19mm that wont fit in OEM wheels designed for 17mm or they fit in but you wont have enough room to get a socket to fit on them

chan61922

Original Poster:

535 posts

61 months

Tuesday 16th February 2021
quotequote all
You sir are a legend smile makes complete sense now! Thank you bud. So my oem wheel is basically sitting further inside the arches therefore in theory shouldn’t be any issue, I do believe I have correct extended bolts there a radius seat with hopefully the right degree/angles on the hex part of the bolt head. Hopefully all goes tickity boom later today, worst case scenario I’ll just go spacer free and original bolts. The crazy thing is I’m not even running any huge big brake kit on the car just running 4pots lol purely doing for cosmetic purposes and I’m abit OCD with wheels sinking into arches and a huge arch gap. The real fun begins when I do beef up the breaks, I’ll be going out my mind with offsets and spacers lol many thanks guys appreciate help, let you know how I get on later...

B'stard Child

28,321 posts

245 months

Tuesday 16th February 2021
quotequote all
So was it a happy ending?

chan61922

Original Poster:

535 posts

61 months

Tuesday 16th February 2021
quotequote all
Waste of time mate grrr, popped into Costco this evening had the Mrs follow me with 2 boxes of wheels in her car and 2 in mine lol turn up only to be told my cars to low for the ramp/jack to get underneath, I suggested use a manual jack, he tried but no joy he was too scared he’d damage my side skirts, great! On the plus had a new set of tyres fitted to the wheels I want to put on the car but means I’ll have to pop in to another garage Tommorrow to do the swap, typical lol got a guy local to me in a tyre shop who will whip it on/off no problems, just a pain in the Arse having to go back and do the same palava again

Fastpedeller

3,847 posts

145 months

Tuesday 16th February 2021
quotequote all
chan61922 said:
I suggested use a manual jack, he tried but no joy he was too scared he’d damage my side skirts,
I'd be thankful for that - not critical!
I (just in time) stopped a so-called mechanic (tyre fitter) from jacking up my GRP monocoque kit car underneath the bolt-on nosecone. he was adamant it would be ok (I've worked on a kit car before, it was a Westfield) except this isn't a Westfield and has no steel chassis so you need to know where to jack it safely. "that'll be alright" won't suffice when the bodywork is broken. In contrast the previous tyre place I'd used (which looked like a drug-dealing dump) were first-class, to the point of asking if I wanted to loosen/tighten the nuts myself with my hand tool. Good practice, and I won't let anyone near any of our car wheels with an air tool as I've had too many stud threads stretched by them.

chan61922

Original Poster:

535 posts

61 months

Wednesday 17th February 2021
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Suppose your right mate, better safe than sorry I guess. Funnily enough the bloke I’ll be taking it to Tomorrow is a back street garage have no issues with them whatsoever, he don’t mind cash in hand to avoid any paperwork etc and it suits me fine too, in and out in 10 mins, wheels all balanced up and ready to go. Back to the original dilemma now, will then sodding spacers and extended bolts work lol

chan61922

Original Poster:

535 posts

61 months

Wednesday 17th February 2021
quotequote all
Success! Fit fine no issues-happy days, only problem is I think I preferred the black sparcos I had on lol one issue the old wheel had spigot rings on them but I didn’t put them on the newly fitted wheels, is this a big no no? Will it cause any issues? Many thanks for all help guys

chan61922

Original Poster:

535 posts

61 months

Wednesday 17th February 2021
quotequote all
No cheeky comments about the car choice please lol