Audi A6 Allroad 2015 automatic - Brake Judder
Discussion
Purchased from a dealer all sound and then slowly brake judder started to appear. Local garage changed front discs and pads, no real improvement, then back discs and pads, all sorted. Since then I have gone to a brake specialist twice to have the discs skimmed and we have now got a new set of performance pads all round to try and reduce the risk of material being left on the discs but this is not working either.
I drive like a nun and so does my wife and like a nun on steroids as this problem has dragged on for the past two and a half years.
Calipers have been checked and they are releasing, so what can it be? Otherwise the car is great and I don't want to chop it in. Running out of options, patience and money !!
I drive like a nun and so does my wife and like a nun on steroids as this problem has dragged on for the past two and a half years.
Calipers have been checked and they are releasing, so what can it be? Otherwise the car is great and I don't want to chop it in. Running out of options, patience and money !!
I have heard on an automatic that warping can be caused easier due to having to hold the brakes a lot more than a manual.
I.e you do a harsh stop from 70 and then wait at traffic lights the hot callipers are pressed against one area of disc for a minute.
Could be the cause if coupled with a seized calliper as mentioned, rather than you causing the heat from a hard stop, the car is causing it.
I.e you do a harsh stop from 70 and then wait at traffic lights the hot callipers are pressed against one area of disc for a minute.
Could be the cause if coupled with a seized calliper as mentioned, rather than you causing the heat from a hard stop, the car is causing it.
Does it get left for a week or more with the parking brake engaged? I managed to achieve a similar effect to what you describe by leaving our car at an airport two with the parking brake engaged in damp weather. Pads stuck to the rear disk. Lovely clunking noise for a while until they cleaned up, plus permanently warped disks.
joropug said:
I have heard on an automatic that warping can be caused easier due to having to hold the brakes a lot more than a manual.
I.e you do a harsh stop from 70 and then wait at traffic lights the hot callipers are pressed against one area of disc for a minute.
Could be the cause if coupled with a seized calliper as mentioned, rather than you causing the heat from a hard stop, the car is causing it.
I've heard people say this....but having ran a few automatics daily for a few years...I find it hard to believe.I.e you do a harsh stop from 70 and then wait at traffic lights the hot callipers are pressed against one area of disc for a minute.
Could be the cause if coupled with a seized calliper as mentioned, rather than you causing the heat from a hard stop, the car is causing it.
As for the OP, are you fitting OEM parts, or aftermarket ?
Audis o that era have pads that wind back from the disc whilst driving. When your wipers are on the pads 'wipe' the surface every so often to keep them clear of water.
If you're driving like a nun, rear brakes are hardly used allowing corrosion build up.
Get rid of your performance pads, fit OEM or equivalent, drive normally.
If you're driving like a nun, rear brakes are hardly used allowing corrosion build up.
Get rid of your performance pads, fit OEM or equivalent, drive normally.
Pad material transfer is a problem but from the sounds of how you drive is unlikely in this case.
You've had one set of new discs fitted and apparently skimmed twice is that correct? If it were me i'd put new discs all round on it, and make sure they were from a known source and trusted brand, unless the pads are as new or wearing perfectly it will mean new pads also.
Before you do that, have you tried giving it a few hard stops from speed to clean things up all around...paying special attention to not let the vehicle actually come to a halt with your foot still on the brake pedal nor applying the parking brake whilst things are still really hot to avoid pad material transfer, i make that a practice normally wherever possible if for any reason have to use brakes hard.
To check for possible binding brakes when on a long drive if its quiet on the road make for a known layby (uphill gradient) or MSA that you can enter via engine braking in suitable gears and come to a halt without touching the brakes except to bring the vehicle to a final halt, then have a good feel around the brakes and hubs for any undue heat.
You've had one set of new discs fitted and apparently skimmed twice is that correct? If it were me i'd put new discs all round on it, and make sure they were from a known source and trusted brand, unless the pads are as new or wearing perfectly it will mean new pads also.
Before you do that, have you tried giving it a few hard stops from speed to clean things up all around...paying special attention to not let the vehicle actually come to a halt with your foot still on the brake pedal nor applying the parking brake whilst things are still really hot to avoid pad material transfer, i make that a practice normally wherever possible if for any reason have to use brakes hard.
To check for possible binding brakes when on a long drive if its quiet on the road make for a known layby (uphill gradient) or MSA that you can enter via engine braking in suitable gears and come to a halt without touching the brakes except to bring the vehicle to a final halt, then have a good feel around the brakes and hubs for any undue heat.
Smint said:
Pad material transfer is a problem but from the sounds of how you drive is unlikely in this case.
You've had one set of new discs fitted and apparently skimmed twice is that correct? If it were me i'd put new discs all round on it, and make sure they were from a known source and trusted brand, unless the pads are as new or wearing perfectly it will mean new pads also.
Before you do that, have you tried giving it a few hard stops from speed to clean things up all around (could be glazing)...paying special attention to not let the vehicle actually come to a halt with your foot still on the brake pedal nor applying the parking brake whilst things are still really hot to avoid pad material transfer, i make that a practice normally wherever possible if for any reason have to use brakes hard.
To check for possible binding brakes when on a long drive if its quiet on the road make for a known layby (uphill gradient) or MSA that you can enter via engine braking in suitable gears and come to a halt without touching the brakes except to bring the vehicle to a final halt, then have a good feel around the brakes and hubs for any undue heat.
You've had one set of new discs fitted and apparently skimmed twice is that correct? If it were me i'd put new discs all round on it, and make sure they were from a known source and trusted brand, unless the pads are as new or wearing perfectly it will mean new pads also.
Before you do that, have you tried giving it a few hard stops from speed to clean things up all around (could be glazing)...paying special attention to not let the vehicle actually come to a halt with your foot still on the brake pedal nor applying the parking brake whilst things are still really hot to avoid pad material transfer, i make that a practice normally wherever possible if for any reason have to use brakes hard.
To check for possible binding brakes when on a long drive if its quiet on the road make for a known layby (uphill gradient) or MSA that you can enter via engine braking in suitable gears and come to a halt without touching the brakes except to bring the vehicle to a final halt, then have a good feel around the brakes and hubs for any undue heat.
Gassing Station | Suspension, Brakes & Tyres | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff