Just drove 6 miles on a flat tyre
Discussion
Rogerout said:
Not a case of not taking responsibility, obviously I can’t blame anyone but myself. I was asking people on a motoring forum if in their opinion there could be more damage done.
It's certainly not ideal that you were not aware the tyre was completely flat but modern cars aren't like the set ups of old where low tyre pressure on a wheel could be easily felt while driving quite slowly. Modern low profiles and harsh suspension actually make it rather difficult to tell in certain circumstances. Driving 5 miles and shredding the tyre would be something I would instruct my wife or daughters to do under certain circumstances.
I guess the actual issue in this regard is that you were not able to drive appropriately due to not knowing the tyre was flat.
That all aside, the tyre place can check the wheel is still round and for cracks so you should be reasonably well covered there if you have a tyre place that you believe isn't operated by morons or grifters.
Whether you have damaged any suspension components is a trickier one.
In the past I have asked my local MOT chappie to stick the car on the ramp and give it a good investigation and then paid the cost of an MOT. This was on a BMW that the manufacturer had insisted must look propa urban gangsta via the medium of being all wheel and no tyre.
After I hit a pothole earlier in the year the nearside front tyre had a large gash in it, the wheel had a damaged rim, the nearside tie rod ripped out of its front mounting and the lower suspension arm was bent. Speed was no more 40mph.
The puncture was immediately obvious, the sound of the flat tyre rotating gave it away. My car was a little older than the OP's though, 53 years older.
Had it not been for the suspension damage I would have changed the wheel and carried; not being able to find a place to stop in six miles to do so is stretching credulity.
The puncture was immediately obvious, the sound of the flat tyre rotating gave it away. My car was a little older than the OP's though, 53 years older.
Had it not been for the suspension damage I would have changed the wheel and carried; not being able to find a place to stop in six miles to do so is stretching credulity.
As unnerving as it is, I'm sure the car is fine OP.
My other half had a tyre go a similar way, probably 3 miles from home and had no issues despite the tyre being a right mess. I had a front tyre go on the M4 last year and despite some horrible thuds as I crossed the cats eyes and only going maybe 1/4 miles before I could pull in, the wheel and car were fine.
Maybe get the wheel alignment checked when the new tyre is on. Job done.
My other half had a tyre go a similar way, probably 3 miles from home and had no issues despite the tyre being a right mess. I had a front tyre go on the M4 last year and despite some horrible thuds as I crossed the cats eyes and only going maybe 1/4 miles before I could pull in, the wheel and car were fine.
Maybe get the wheel alignment checked when the new tyre is on. Job done.
Maybe a wee bit harsh on the OP in some cases here...
End of the day, we're not all ex Wiiliams F1 standard mechanics or committed drivers and sometimes a puncture isn't immediately obvious plus certain cars do mask punctures rather well. I've done it myself recently, borrowed a friends car with it's 225/35/18 tyres and thought it felt a bit harsher than I remembered and a mile up the road, OSF tyre flat.
The other factor is when you're alone, dark roads, poor weather... maybe yes you know something isn't 100% but if the car is still driving to an extent, sometimes it's best / safer to limp on to a place of relative safety. I've said this to family, unless the thing is nigh on immobile then try and limp to somewhere safe... I'd rather sacrifice a tyre, even a wheel if it meant being safe.
As for the OP, ultimately nobody knows what damage has been done... tyre, yes... that's a given, it'll be destroyed but whoever fits the new tyre should be able to check the wheel and have a visual check of the suspension, lower arm in particular or if you want to go belt and braces, an alignment check. If it's been suggested the wheel nuts are too tight, get them all cracked off and retorqued to the correct spec whilst you're there.
Plenty companies offer mobile tyre fitting if you can't get it to a local tyre depot.
End of the day, we're not all ex Wiiliams F1 standard mechanics or committed drivers and sometimes a puncture isn't immediately obvious plus certain cars do mask punctures rather well. I've done it myself recently, borrowed a friends car with it's 225/35/18 tyres and thought it felt a bit harsher than I remembered and a mile up the road, OSF tyre flat.
The other factor is when you're alone, dark roads, poor weather... maybe yes you know something isn't 100% but if the car is still driving to an extent, sometimes it's best / safer to limp on to a place of relative safety. I've said this to family, unless the thing is nigh on immobile then try and limp to somewhere safe... I'd rather sacrifice a tyre, even a wheel if it meant being safe.
As for the OP, ultimately nobody knows what damage has been done... tyre, yes... that's a given, it'll be destroyed but whoever fits the new tyre should be able to check the wheel and have a visual check of the suspension, lower arm in particular or if you want to go belt and braces, an alignment check. If it's been suggested the wheel nuts are too tight, get them all cracked off and retorqued to the correct spec whilst you're there.
Plenty companies offer mobile tyre fitting if you can't get it to a local tyre depot.
Wow, how could you have a totally flat tyre and not notice? when i've had a flat, you're talking heavy pull to one side, vibrations through the wheel, that awful rumbling sound etc.
Anyways OP, assuming the impact hasn't bent the car, new tyre obviously a given, and if the pothole was big possibly a wheel. If that is the case just get one from a scrappy. Your tyre place will be able to tell you if it's bent no worries.
For next time - driving with a flat.tyre can easily be 3 points. I think a copper would have to be an arse to do you for it if it just happened, but driving on for 6 miles? I think you'd struggle!
Anyways OP, assuming the impact hasn't bent the car, new tyre obviously a given, and if the pothole was big possibly a wheel. If that is the case just get one from a scrappy. Your tyre place will be able to tell you if it's bent no worries.
For next time - driving with a flat.tyre can easily be 3 points. I think a copper would have to be an arse to do you for it if it just happened, but driving on for 6 miles? I think you'd struggle!
Baldchap said:
Little tip for everyone: After your car has any work done that requires the wheels to be removed, crack the bolts and torque them properly the moment you get home.
It saves a lot of sweating and swearing at the roadside in the event of a puncture (assuming you actually stop).
I've taken to sanding the face of the wheel and a smear of copper grease as alloys really do like to stick to the hub given any opportunity. It saves a lot of sweating and swearing at the roadside in the event of a puncture (assuming you actually stop).
scorcher said:
If you’ve blown a tyre out on a pothole that’s the end of your tyre regardless. You can either spend half hour faffing around changing your wheel for a spare getting soaking wet and perhaps endangering yourself ( if you actually have a spare), wait an hour plus for breakdown recovery or just drive on and get home and worry about it later. I’d go with the last one.
Spot on, if home isn't far I'd do exactly this and happily take the risk that it knackers the wheel (which it probably won't - I have done pretty much this twice before with no trouble at all). Obviously if the car was uncontrollably slewing all over the place I'll stop and change the wheel/call breakdown out, but otherwise I'll just go slowly and be sure to let others past. According to PH's resident splutterers this makes me an insane and incompetent maniac. Oh well.DonkeyApple said:
Baldchap said:
Little tip for everyone: After your car has any work done that requires the wheels to be removed, crack the bolts and torque them properly the moment you get home.
It saves a lot of sweating and swearing at the roadside in the event of a puncture (assuming you actually stop).
I've taken to sanding the face of the wheel and a smear of copper grease as alloys really do like to stick to the hub given any opportunity. It saves a lot of sweating and swearing at the roadside in the event of a puncture (assuming you actually stop).
OP, last time I had a wheel straightened, in mid 2023, the charge was £50, though would have been more to refinish it as well.
I had a flat, pulled over after I noticed the left side dragging the steering, it was a left rear failure.
The tyre deflated and ran on the tyre rim, which was fairly stiff and held the wheel off the road without damage, or so I thought!
Initially I though it was ruts in the tarmac, the car does tramline on the track tyres although when the drag escalated quite markedly and a serious smell pervaded the cabin, maybe over a few hundred yards, I found a spot to pull in and check. I'd left a line of crumbled rubber about a hundred yards long behind me!
Anyway, after changing the wheel I got the knackered one to my mech who spotted it wasn't a puncture but was due to a hairline crack in the alloy causing the tyre to deflate, run without air on the rim, overheat and s
t itself. I'd no idea what caused the hairline crack by the way.
The tyre deflated and ran on the tyre rim, which was fairly stiff and held the wheel off the road without damage, or so I thought!
Initially I though it was ruts in the tarmac, the car does tramline on the track tyres although when the drag escalated quite markedly and a serious smell pervaded the cabin, maybe over a few hundred yards, I found a spot to pull in and check. I'd left a line of crumbled rubber about a hundred yards long behind me!
Anyway, after changing the wheel I got the knackered one to my mech who spotted it wasn't a puncture but was due to a hairline crack in the alloy causing the tyre to deflate, run without air on the rim, overheat and s
t itself. I'd no idea what caused the hairline crack by the way.InitialDave said:
DonkeyApple said:
Baldchap said:
Little tip for everyone: After your car has any work done that requires the wheels to be removed, crack the bolts and torque them properly the moment you get home.
It saves a lot of sweating and swearing at the roadside in the event of a puncture (assuming you actually stop).
I've taken to sanding the face of the wheel and a smear of copper grease as alloys really do like to stick to the hub given any opportunity. It saves a lot of sweating and swearing at the roadside in the event of a puncture (assuming you actually stop).
OP, last time I had a wheel straightened, in mid 2023, the charge was £50, though would have been more to refinish it as well.
I think everyone piling in on the op is a bit uncalled for.
The OP did the right thing and stopped when it was safe to do so. Everyone’s perception of risk is different.
If the astra he is driving has very low profile tyres with a moderately stiff sidewall then I’m sure a lot of the “experts” on here would also struggle to tell when its pissing down with rain on a badly surfaced uk road.
OP. Replace the tyre. Ask the fitters to check the balance of the wheel without a tyre on. That will prove if the wheel is damaged.
Also ask them to give that side a once over with a pry bar to check everything is ok (I'm sure it will be).
The OP did the right thing and stopped when it was safe to do so. Everyone’s perception of risk is different.
If the astra he is driving has very low profile tyres with a moderately stiff sidewall then I’m sure a lot of the “experts” on here would also struggle to tell when its pissing down with rain on a badly surfaced uk road.
OP. Replace the tyre. Ask the fitters to check the balance of the wheel without a tyre on. That will prove if the wheel is damaged.
Also ask them to give that side a once over with a pry bar to check everything is ok (I'm sure it will be).
InitialDave said:
DonkeyApple said:
Baldchap said:
Little tip for everyone: After your car has any work done that requires the wheels to be removed, crack the bolts and torque them properly the moment you get home.
It saves a lot of sweating and swearing at the roadside in the event of a puncture (assuming you actually stop).
I've taken to sanding the face of the wheel and a smear of copper grease as alloys really do like to stick to the hub given any opportunity. It saves a lot of sweating and swearing at the roadside in the event of a puncture (assuming you actually stop).
OP, last time I had a wheel straightened, in mid 2023, the charge was £50, though would have been more to refinish it as well.
I did similar a few years ago; hit a brick in the road doing 30mph. Pitch dark and raining I decided to drive six miles home - the rim was already obviously damaged.
OPC wanted north of £1,000 to replace so I took it to local wheel refurb who sorted it quickly - total was £350 including new tyre and fitting.
OPC wanted north of £1,000 to replace so I took it to local wheel refurb who sorted it quickly - total was £350 including new tyre and fitting.
Oilchange said:
I had a flat, pulled over after I noticed the left side dragging the steering, it was a left rear failure.
The tyre deflated and ran on the tyre rim, which was fairly stiff and held the wheel off the road without damage, or so I thought!
Initially I though it was ruts in the tarmac, the car does tramline on the track tyres although when the drag escalated quite markedly and a serious smell pervaded the cabin, maybe over a few hundred yards, I found a spot to pull in and check. I'd left a line of crumbled rubber about a hundred yards long behind me!
Anyway, after changing the wheel I got the knackered one to my mech who spotted it wasn't a puncture but was due to a hairline crack in the alloy causing the tyre to deflate, run without air on the rim, overheat and st itself. I'd no idea what caused the hairline crack by the way.
Part of that knackered tyre looks completely bald-or is it the lighting?The tyre deflated and ran on the tyre rim, which was fairly stiff and held the wheel off the road without damage, or so I thought!
Initially I though it was ruts in the tarmac, the car does tramline on the track tyres although when the drag escalated quite markedly and a serious smell pervaded the cabin, maybe over a few hundred yards, I found a spot to pull in and check. I'd left a line of crumbled rubber about a hundred yards long behind me!
Anyway, after changing the wheel I got the knackered one to my mech who spotted it wasn't a puncture but was due to a hairline crack in the alloy causing the tyre to deflate, run without air on the rim, overheat and s
t itself. I'd no idea what caused the hairline crack by the way.Gassing Station | Suspension, Brakes & Tyres | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff