Stiff wheel bearings
Discussion
At risk of stating the bleedin' obvious, the rear wheels on a Sierra based kit are connected via driveshafts to a diff, propshaft and gearbox output shaft, so if you're expecting them to spin several revolutions with a flick of the wrist, it ain't gonna happen! 
Having said which, if there is a lot more resistance to turning them than there was before you started, it sounds as though you might have over-tightened them. In which case, yes, they'll loosen up with use (if they don't seize first!), but will be shagged in the process.
It's something that comes with experience. I'll probably be flamed for suggesting this, but I don't bother with manufacturer's instructions about endfloat, backing off the nuts by so many flats, torque settings, or whatever, any more - I just set wheel bearing by feel. I tighten the bearing until I'm sure it's proprely seated (at which point it will be over-tight), then back off the retaining nut until I've got the right amount of light, smooth rotational pressure. Trouble is, you need to have done it a few times by the book before you develop the right 'feel'.
Having said which, if there is a lot more resistance to turning them than there was before you started, it sounds as though you might have over-tightened them. In which case, yes, they'll loosen up with use (if they don't seize first!), but will be shagged in the process.
It's something that comes with experience. I'll probably be flamed for suggesting this, but I don't bother with manufacturer's instructions about endfloat, backing off the nuts by so many flats, torque settings, or whatever, any more - I just set wheel bearing by feel. I tighten the bearing until I'm sure it's proprely seated (at which point it will be over-tight), then back off the retaining nut until I've got the right amount of light, smooth rotational pressure. Trouble is, you need to have done it a few times by the book before you develop the right 'feel'.
Sam_68 said:
At risk of stating the bleedin' obvious, the rear wheels on a Sierra based kit are connected via driveshafts to a diff, propshaft and gearbox output shaft, so if you're expecting them to spin several revolutions with a flick of the wrist, it ain't gonna happen!
No problem, should have mentioned the driveshafts aren't connected 
Looks like there is a problem... have to try again. Live and learn I suppose!
Edited by jcas on Sunday 27th May 09:32
really??!!I've seen this sort of torque setting issue before with Haynes. I'm not a fitter, but my own plan in these situations before has been simple.
Tighten up until the wheel offers reasonably stiff resistance, but not solid. Note the position of the nut. Back off the nut until you can just barely feel the bearing unseating when you wobble the hub. Note the position of the nut.
Halve the difference in the position of the nut and satisfy yourself that you're happy with the adjustment.
Clearly its always going to be subjective.
For me, when I say barely feel the wobble I mean just that. So I mean, not wobbling, but just barely clicking. You can't see or hear it, you can only just feel it, with the firmest of rocking motions from two hands.
As for too tight, well that's the point where you can't turn the hub, with the lightest of grips from both hands.
Tighten up until the wheel offers reasonably stiff resistance, but not solid. Note the position of the nut. Back off the nut until you can just barely feel the bearing unseating when you wobble the hub. Note the position of the nut.
Halve the difference in the position of the nut and satisfy yourself that you're happy with the adjustment.
Clearly its always going to be subjective.
For me, when I say barely feel the wobble I mean just that. So I mean, not wobbling, but just barely clicking. You can't see or hear it, you can only just feel it, with the firmest of rocking motions from two hands.
As for too tight, well that's the point where you can't turn the hub, with the lightest of grips from both hands.
Edited by dilbert on Monday 28th May 02:22
dilbert said:
Tighten up until the wheel offers reasonably stiff resistance, but not solid. Note the position of the nut. Back off the nut until you can just barely feel the bearing unseating when you wobble the hub. Note the position of the nut.
Halve the difference in the position of the nut and satisfy yourself that you're happy with the adjustment.
Clearly its always going to be subjective.
I'm not a fitter either, but in my experience there seem to be broadly three types of wheel bearing. Some have to be done up 'kin tight - hundreds of lbft. With these you don't mess about feeling for backlash or stiffness, you do them up to the right torque. Some have to be torqued up to a fairly modest torque. Again, these are simply done up to the right torque. The third type is a tapered bearing where the hub nut is used to set the bearing preload, and these have to be done up by feel. You have to know which sort you're dealing with. My guess is the OP has got this mixed up and is following the wrong procedure.Halve the difference in the position of the nut and satisfy yourself that you're happy with the adjustment.
Clearly its always going to be subjective.
GreenV8S said:
jcas said:
Yep! Fronts are even more....
The OP said he did them up to 150 lb ft because that was as far as his torque wrench would go - that's far too much for the rears, as your picture shows.Am I talking to myself in here?)
James
Apologies to revive an old thread, but I have a MGB with a Sierra based rear suspension provided by Hoyle suspensions. Sourced the hub carriers myself from Anembo Engineering - http://anembo-engineering.mybigcommerce.com/2wd-bi...
And stub shafts from J&R on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GRANADA-SIERRA-108...
Are these not compatible?
As I can barely tighten the nut past it being tight by hand, probably 20-30lb/ft max before the wheel fully seizes up and doesn’t move at all, so bad that the car had to be moved between houses on a car transporter and whilst being whinches the rear wheels were dragging rather than turning up the ramps.
And stub shafts from J&R on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GRANADA-SIERRA-108...
Are these not compatible?
As I can barely tighten the nut past it being tight by hand, probably 20-30lb/ft max before the wheel fully seizes up and doesn’t move at all, so bad that the car had to be moved between houses on a car transporter and whilst being whinches the rear wheels were dragging rather than turning up the ramps.
diurno said:
Apologies to revive an old thread, but I have a MGB with a Sierra based rear suspension provided by Hoyle suspensions. Sourced the hub carriers myself from Anembo Engineering - http://anembo-engineering.mybigcommerce.com/2wd-bi...
And stub shafts from J&R on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GRANADA-SIERRA-108...
Are these not compatible?
As I can barely tighten the nut past it being tight by hand, probably 20-30lb/ft max before the wheel fully seizes up and doesn’t move at all, so bad that the car had to be moved between houses on a car transporter and whilst being whinches the rear wheels were dragging rather than turning up the ramps.
There is definitely something missing or incompatable, 20-30lb/ft is a setting often used for small bolts and will not keep a wheel onAnd stub shafts from J&R on eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-GRANADA-SIERRA-108...
Are these not compatible?
As I can barely tighten the nut past it being tight by hand, probably 20-30lb/ft max before the wheel fully seizes up and doesn’t move at all, so bad that the car had to be moved between houses on a car transporter and whilst being whinches the rear wheels were dragging rather than turning up the ramps.
I also suggest you speak to the hub supplier to sort compatibility.
A quick google suggests the Sierra has used taper roller bearings AND ball bearing rollers in the rear hubs at various times. (Not at the same time!)
The ballbearing variety are normally done up f.tight & the big figure shown wouldn't surprise me. They are not adjustable & must be replaced if they show any wear.
Taper rollers are normally done either to a very low preload - just a slight load - or so you can JUST feel a tiny amount of play if you hold the wheel at 12 & 6 & rock it.
For the latter tighten whilst turning the wheel in the normal direction of rotation until you feel resistance then back off until you can just feel the play. I've always done taper rollers like that & never had an issue either in service or at MOT.
I HAVE overtightened one & some days later had it fail, requiring lift recovery. The inner race on the stub axle had got so hot it welded itself to the stub axle!
This type of bearing is usually held in place by a locking nut & lock washer arrangement, a cover over the nut with a split pin/'R' clip or a staked nut.
A quick google suggests the Sierra has used taper roller bearings AND ball bearing rollers in the rear hubs at various times. (Not at the same time!)
The ballbearing variety are normally done up f.tight & the big figure shown wouldn't surprise me. They are not adjustable & must be replaced if they show any wear.
Taper rollers are normally done either to a very low preload - just a slight load - or so you can JUST feel a tiny amount of play if you hold the wheel at 12 & 6 & rock it.
For the latter tighten whilst turning the wheel in the normal direction of rotation until you feel resistance then back off until you can just feel the play. I've always done taper rollers like that & never had an issue either in service or at MOT.
I HAVE overtightened one & some days later had it fail, requiring lift recovery. The inner race on the stub axle had got so hot it welded itself to the stub axle!
This type of bearing is usually held in place by a locking nut & lock washer arrangement, a cover over the nut with a split pin/'R' clip or a staked nut.
Edited by paintman on Thursday 13th December 18:19
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