filler and paint ?

[crankedup]

my 1928 Austin has mudguards which are rather tatty, one has rotted thru near the base and the others have been previously patched and handpainted.

I would like to improve the looks by using filler and spray cans. (The pro' cost is outside of my budget so a tidy up for a few years is what I'm after)

Advise appreciated.

[steve_d]

Take yourself down to the next autojumble at beaulieu and pick up a replacement pair.
In the meantime you could pop rivet patches in and bodyfill. Not pretty but probably better than you have now.

Steve

[crankedup]

Thanks Steve, do they really have items of body work at the autojumble?

[steve_d]

They have everything.
Last time I went, as I walked in from the car park there was a guy walking out with a roller bonnet purched on his head.

Steve

[M3 Mitch]

At a minimum use fiberglass instead of "bondo", plastic filler has about 0 structural strength, and can absorb water causing worse rust.

If you want to go one better than that, sandblast the rusted area, tin it, and fill with lead. Learning to work lead is not that hard. There are also lead-free solders but they are a bit harder to work with.

Or, hell, do it right, you can oxyacetylene-weld patches in - use a jigsaw to neaten up the rust hole, cut a patch panel from similar thickness steel, and butt-weld it in. I was doing this as a kid in my late teens. Use a coat hanger for a welding rod, tack weld all round, use a hammer and dolly to peen down the weld bead while still hot. You will want to practice on something other than your car, of course, before getting down to business.

Or, go first class and get a MIG welder.

Of course if you can get correct un-rusty panels at a swap meet, forget all the above and go that route!