Is this a silly idea?
Discussion
Very nice, should come up a treat.
Worth a watch before you start, i dont do as many passes as him but it depends how bad the paint is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xV8ZXpiRxA
Worth a watch before you start, i dont do as many passes as him but it depends how bad the paint is.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xV8ZXpiRxA
Edited by Belle427 on Thursday 11th September 19:59
I saw the post about ceramic coatings and it got me thinking...
I have a bottle of Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant Seal Paint to use after my bottle of Menzerna Cut Force Pro Car Polish.
But would it be better or worse if I used a ceramic coating instead? I see they have one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/menzerna-Protection-Envir...
I have a bottle of Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant Seal Paint to use after my bottle of Menzerna Cut Force Pro Car Polish.
But would it be better or worse if I used a ceramic coating instead? I see they have one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/menzerna-Protection-Envir...
Well, in a moment of derring-do, and as I hadn't seemed to do anything constructive up to that point in the day, I flipped the cover back off the boot and started to arrange all the kit.
First, a rinse with water - I'll award myself 10/10 for that. Then I messed up, because by having the mindset of 'clean the car first' I used the Turtlewax shampoo/wax. Force of habit. Didn't realise that until I was putting the stuff away and saw the proper shampoo still on the shelf. Arse!
Next, the G3 Pro Deep Clean Clay Mitt. Using the same Turtlewax mix as a lubricant I gently ran it over the boot and 'haunches' a few times to see/feel what it did. Using only the weight of my hand I could feel a little drag, and the water went slightly cloudy as particles of something mixed into it. Particles of clay mitt or lacquer? It reminded me of using 3000 wet and dry on my model boat. I wiped the area dry and was a bit alarmed to see that the boot now looked slightly matt, and had some very visible scratches that weren't there before. The mitt was brand new so I can only think they were caused by invisible bits of 'contaminant' catching in the mitt and being dragged across.
Well the only way was forwards so I got the DA polisher out and fitted a smooth medium pad (orange, if the colour means anything). Tiny dabs of Cut Force Pro all over it, then splodge it all over the boot as I'd seen in that handy video someone kindly posted. Select slowest speed and off we go...
It vibrates, even with the pad centred. But we go left and right, up and down, and repeat a couple of times before it seemed a good idea to stop and see how it was going. Wipe the film off, and it's definitely better, but not there yet. Two more sessions, going up to speed 2, and apart from a couple of deeper marks that could have been dangerous to try and remove, it was certainly 99% better than it had been.
So now the Power Lock Polymer Sealant. Applied with Meguiar's Soft Foam Applicator Pads (how easy it is to seem like a nerd in this game!) I polished it on and polished it off. The boot was now shiny, but it didn't seem a deep shine. Did another coat. Not really the awesome deep gloss I was fondly hoping for. I wanted to build up the shine so it looked like a clear layer. Scouted around in the garage and found some Turtlewax quick shine spray, so did half the boot with that to see if it made any difference or built up the shine. Nope, looked exactly the same, so maybe that's as far as it will go.
But the good news is that the boot and haunches are looking very much better than they were, and with a shine that most people would be happy with. Next time - the roof...
First, a rinse with water - I'll award myself 10/10 for that. Then I messed up, because by having the mindset of 'clean the car first' I used the Turtlewax shampoo/wax. Force of habit. Didn't realise that until I was putting the stuff away and saw the proper shampoo still on the shelf. Arse!
Next, the G3 Pro Deep Clean Clay Mitt. Using the same Turtlewax mix as a lubricant I gently ran it over the boot and 'haunches' a few times to see/feel what it did. Using only the weight of my hand I could feel a little drag, and the water went slightly cloudy as particles of something mixed into it. Particles of clay mitt or lacquer? It reminded me of using 3000 wet and dry on my model boat. I wiped the area dry and was a bit alarmed to see that the boot now looked slightly matt, and had some very visible scratches that weren't there before. The mitt was brand new so I can only think they were caused by invisible bits of 'contaminant' catching in the mitt and being dragged across.
Well the only way was forwards so I got the DA polisher out and fitted a smooth medium pad (orange, if the colour means anything). Tiny dabs of Cut Force Pro all over it, then splodge it all over the boot as I'd seen in that handy video someone kindly posted. Select slowest speed and off we go...
It vibrates, even with the pad centred. But we go left and right, up and down, and repeat a couple of times before it seemed a good idea to stop and see how it was going. Wipe the film off, and it's definitely better, but not there yet. Two more sessions, going up to speed 2, and apart from a couple of deeper marks that could have been dangerous to try and remove, it was certainly 99% better than it had been.
So now the Power Lock Polymer Sealant. Applied with Meguiar's Soft Foam Applicator Pads (how easy it is to seem like a nerd in this game!) I polished it on and polished it off. The boot was now shiny, but it didn't seem a deep shine. Did another coat. Not really the awesome deep gloss I was fondly hoping for. I wanted to build up the shine so it looked like a clear layer. Scouted around in the garage and found some Turtlewax quick shine spray, so did half the boot with that to see if it made any difference or built up the shine. Nope, looked exactly the same, so maybe that's as far as it will go.
But the good news is that the boot and haunches are looking very much better than they were, and with a shine that most people would be happy with. Next time - the roof...
You mention speed 2 but if your polishing then it needs to be on a higher setting, i usually just crank mine up to maximum but 5 and 6 are for more aggressive correction.
You start it off on speed 2 to spread the compound so it does not fling everywhere.
A fallout type remover is normally a good idea before claying too as it helps remove most bonded contaminants before contacting with the clay.
You start it off on speed 2 to spread the compound so it does not fling everywhere.
A fallout type remover is normally a good idea before claying too as it helps remove most bonded contaminants before contacting with the clay.
Edited by Belle427 on Sunday 21st September 07:43
Thanks; speed 2 (I think there are 6) was for the first compound. But given that Cut Force Pro is a 'two in one' product should I be doing it with a medium pad on slow speed for the first session, then change to a soft pad and higher speed for the second session? (with more compound).
Is it OK to wipe off the smeary surface with a microfibre cloth (as I did) or should I keep polishing/changing pads until it's all gone?
Is it OK to wipe off the smeary surface with a microfibre cloth (as I did) or should I keep polishing/changing pads until it's all gone?
medium pad but faster speed should be all you need really, its fine to wipe off the haze with a microfibre, you dont want to overwork it really or it starts to nuke the pad.
Speed 2 to spread the compound around then try 5 to polish, 3 to 5 passes in different directions should be adequate.
Speed 2 to spread the compound around then try 5 to polish, 3 to 5 passes in different directions should be adequate.
As per Belle 427, just think what your actually doing to the paintwork:
Your washing it to remove the obvious surface dirt, there will still be contaminants stuck to it, that's why you are using the clay mitt, I'd also use some sort of panel wipe/alcohol wipe so you are left with nothing but a clean surface.
You are then using your coarser pad, I appreciate you don't think you can tell the difference, but with a quality pad, the coarse pad is an obvious denser harder pad. You then run the DA as slow as it will go with some dots of compound and put some pressure on the DA and use the DA over a patch, you are working it and allowing the compound on a small micron level to sand away a bit of your lacquer. Wipe it off with a clean Microfiber and you will be left with a dull panel, you will be thinking 'Sh*t'!
Change to the other softer pad, put some dots of compound on and crank the speed up towards max. This time work it across the panel but don't apply pressure, let the speed of the DA work and it will start to shine.
If you still have the odd scratch after its because they are too deep for the compound to cut out. If you're still left with something hazy you haven't polished it enough at the higher speed. Each stage is simply sanding it at a finer and finer level to make the lacquer flat which means it reflects more light.
It sounds to me like you have missed out the polish part before applying the sealer. You are doing two stages, a slow stage with pressure which will make the panel dull as you are very lightly sanding it. Then stage two, a much faster approach with a lot less pressure, this is the stage that removes the dull panel and makes it shiny, it is basically sanding away the coarser marks you left from the first stage.
Your washing it to remove the obvious surface dirt, there will still be contaminants stuck to it, that's why you are using the clay mitt, I'd also use some sort of panel wipe/alcohol wipe so you are left with nothing but a clean surface.
You are then using your coarser pad, I appreciate you don't think you can tell the difference, but with a quality pad, the coarse pad is an obvious denser harder pad. You then run the DA as slow as it will go with some dots of compound and put some pressure on the DA and use the DA over a patch, you are working it and allowing the compound on a small micron level to sand away a bit of your lacquer. Wipe it off with a clean Microfiber and you will be left with a dull panel, you will be thinking 'Sh*t'!
Change to the other softer pad, put some dots of compound on and crank the speed up towards max. This time work it across the panel but don't apply pressure, let the speed of the DA work and it will start to shine.
If you still have the odd scratch after its because they are too deep for the compound to cut out. If you're still left with something hazy you haven't polished it enough at the higher speed. Each stage is simply sanding it at a finer and finer level to make the lacquer flat which means it reflects more light.
It sounds to me like you have missed out the polish part before applying the sealer. You are doing two stages, a slow stage with pressure which will make the panel dull as you are very lightly sanding it. Then stage two, a much faster approach with a lot less pressure, this is the stage that removes the dull panel and makes it shiny, it is basically sanding away the coarser marks you left from the first stage.
Edited by DaveF-SkinnysAutos on Sunday 21st September 10:37
Thanks guys, yes I need to do the second stage differently.
Looking closely at the boot I did yesterday, whilst it looks OK I can still feel some tiny specks here and there - those may be the 'iron' bits I'd never heard of before, and which might have caused the post-mitt scratches as they came off. However I want to crack on today in the nice weather so will have to try better with the clay mitt and use my fingertips to judge.
The good news is that I've been going too cautiously, which is better than the other way!
Looking closely at the boot I did yesterday, whilst it looks OK I can still feel some tiny specks here and there - those may be the 'iron' bits I'd never heard of before, and which might have caused the post-mitt scratches as they came off. However I want to crack on today in the nice weather so will have to try better with the clay mitt and use my fingertips to judge.
The good news is that I've been going too cautiously, which is better than the other way!
And so, armed with this extra knowledge, ie the stage I missed, I set about the next chunk - roof and then bonnet.
Here's the roof. The car is actually quite hard to see now!
Much better!
I notice that the polisher throws out a lot of flecks of dried polish - is that normal or do I need to adjust technique?
I'm now taking a break before possibly tackling one of the sides...
Here's the roof. The car is actually quite hard to see now!
Much better!
I notice that the polisher throws out a lot of flecks of dried polish - is that normal or do I need to adjust technique?
I'm now taking a break before possibly tackling one of the sides...
Good to hear. They wipe off easily but I wondered if it meant too high a speed, too much polish etc.
Going over the bonnet I certainly found a few tiny chips and spots I hadn't noticed before. It's one of tasks where the more you do, the fussier you get. I feel I'm getting my hand and eye in now.
Doing the 'dab' thing on the pad then dabbing it all over the surface before cutting/polishing seems needlessly time-consuming; a spray would certainly be easier. But we are getting there!
Going over the bonnet I certainly found a few tiny chips and spots I hadn't noticed before. It's one of tasks where the more you do, the fussier you get. I feel I'm getting my hand and eye in now.
Doing the 'dab' thing on the pad then dabbing it all over the surface before cutting/polishing seems needlessly time-consuming; a spray would certainly be easier. But we are getting there!
DaveF-SkinnysAutos said:
Wow! Looks great! 
Whoops, didn't spot your post before as I was typing... you can take some of the credit for the result 
I doubt it's up to pro standards but it's well beyond any car cleaning I've done before. Just got the left side to do - it's harder to do sides as the angle's wrong and the light's not so good. How you guys can do it for a living beats me!
Looking good, its amazing the difference it can make.
I have not tried it but wondered if it would be easier to just apply some pea sized drops all over the panel your doing to avoid having to stop.
Don`t forget to give the pads a wash out after every session as they can become clogged, excess water can be shaken off by just running the machine on full speed.
I have not tried it but wondered if it would be easier to just apply some pea sized drops all over the panel your doing to avoid having to stop.
Don`t forget to give the pads a wash out after every session as they can become clogged, excess water can be shaken off by just running the machine on full speed.
Belle427 said:
Looking good, its amazing the difference it can make.
I have not tried it but wondered if it would be easier to just apply some pea sized drops all over the panel your doing to avoid having to stop.
Don`t forget to give the pads a wash out after every session as they can become clogged, excess water can be shaken off by just running the machine on full speed.
I'll try it on the final side. The pads get washed out afterwards and have dried overnight in the airing cupboard ready for the final assault today...I have not tried it but wondered if it would be easier to just apply some pea sized drops all over the panel your doing to avoid having to stop.
Don`t forget to give the pads a wash out after every session as they can become clogged, excess water can be shaken off by just running the machine on full speed.
This is a nice product to have on the shelf, it's like a detailing spray on steroids. Ideal to use for a wipedown before a show etc and has made most of the cars I have tried it on look great.
All their products are very good.
https://www.garagetherapy.co.uk/product-page/two-s...
All their products are very good.
https://www.garagetherapy.co.uk/product-page/two-s...
Thanks for the idea. I already have G3 Pro Rapid Detailer - would that be an equivalent?
Off to the last show of the year on Saturday - same place as the one that started this all off - so I hope the twin DB9 returns and we can do a fair comparison!
Just the inside to do now, but just a vacuuming, quick wipe around with spray polish and then Liquid Leather on the seats and I'm done.
Off to the last show of the year on Saturday - same place as the one that started this all off - so I hope the twin DB9 returns and we can do a fair comparison!
Just the inside to do now, but just a vacuuming, quick wipe around with spray polish and then Liquid Leather on the seats and I'm done.
Edited by Simpo Two on Monday 22 September 13:12
Simpo Two said:
Thanks for the idea. I already have G3 Pro Rapid Detailer - would that be an equivalent?
Off to the last show of the year on Saturday - same place as the one that started this all off - so I hope the twin DB9 returns and we can do a fair comparison!
Just the inside to do now, but just a vacuuming, quick wipe around with spray polish and then Liquid Leather on the seats and I'm done.
Probably very similar but i found the sigma really makes the paint pop, seemed to get even better a few hours after application too but I cant explain why.Off to the last show of the year on Saturday - same place as the one that started this all off - so I hope the twin DB9 returns and we can do a fair comparison!
Just the inside to do now, but just a vacuuming, quick wipe around with spray polish and then Liquid Leather on the seats and I'm done.
Edited by Simpo Two on Monday 22 September 13:12
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