The Range Rover Classic thread
Discussion
Huntsman said:
Does anyone have photos of a few pages from the manual on removing a V8?
Specifically, the sequence for accessing the top bellhousing bolts, the engine mount brackets and exhaust manifolds and starter motor.
What do I do first?
I found a manual online and dowloaded it, I then found a Haynes manual in the car that I didnt know I had.Specifically, the sequence for accessing the top bellhousing bolts, the engine mount brackets and exhaust manifolds and starter motor.
What do I do first?
Lifted and removed the engine mounts, I can now see how to access bolts round the back.
paintman said:
RobXjcoupe said:
Question on fuel tanks now. I m fitting the mid level fuel filler to a to a 1992 2 door with a high level filler. Are the fuel tanks the same regardless with just a shorter pipe connection from the exterior fuel filler or do I need a fuel tank from an earlier car as well?
I m running a fuel injection engine
This might help. Click on the car, then on the section you need & then the part which will bring up the part numbers.I m running a fuel injection engine
https://lrcat.com/
On your bushes question I also prefer the originals.
Police spec springs are intended if you're going to be carrying loads of stuff normally in the boot - also consider if your Boge self levelling unit is knackered.
Your pic of the engine & box shows the torque converter attached to the engine.
You may already know this, but if you're going to either reuse them or stick with the same setup you MUST fit the tc to the gearbox at the correct depth before fitting to the engine.
The cutouts in the hollow shaft on the rear of the tc engage with & drive the pump in the box.
It is possible to refit with the tc in the wrong position & bolt it all up but that will damage the pump.
No pressure = no drive & you get to take it all apart again to fit a new pump.
Took a few hours today to do this - I am generally going retro look but with better performance.
Fitted the Holley retrolight LEDs but only one would work - turned out to be crappy wiring in the car. Got that sorted - headlights obviously just go straight in once the chrome rings are off. Checked and extended the driving light wiring and fitted those with headlight connectors so they are easily removable. Cloth (heatproof) tape used where I could.
When the grill arrived from eBay I was a bit disappointed as it was pretty beaten up but after a good degrease and scouring pad effort it was decent. 2 coats of high temp matt black from a rattle can … good as new !
Final touch was cable ties to tidy up the driving lamp cables.
Fitted the Holley retrolight LEDs but only one would work - turned out to be crappy wiring in the car. Got that sorted - headlights obviously just go straight in once the chrome rings are off. Checked and extended the driving light wiring and fitted those with headlight connectors so they are easily removable. Cloth (heatproof) tape used where I could.
When the grill arrived from eBay I was a bit disappointed as it was pretty beaten up but after a good degrease and scouring pad effort it was decent. 2 coats of high temp matt black from a rattle can … good as new !
Final touch was cable ties to tidy up the driving lamp cables.
Just a thought on headlights.
One of the multi function column switches has a reputation for overheating. This melts the plastic of the switch & the usual result is the main & dip & flash stops working.
The switch concerned is PRC4606.
Also used on other non-LR vehicles (MGB for one) & can suffer the same issue.
They occasionally come up on ebay but are getting rarer & more expensive.
AFAIAA none of the other ones used during the life of the Classic have the issue.
Mine (CA chassis number) went through 2 before I bit the bullet & converted it so the main feed to the headlight bulbs is now through relays & all the switch does is switch the relays.
Plug & Play kits are available - such as the Boomslang - or there are a couple of 'how tos' on the internet to DIY if, like me, you want to go that route.
Boomslang: https://www.paddockspares.com/pm330-boomslang-perf...
DIY conversion: https://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/lights10.htm
One of the multi function column switches has a reputation for overheating. This melts the plastic of the switch & the usual result is the main & dip & flash stops working.
The switch concerned is PRC4606.
Also used on other non-LR vehicles (MGB for one) & can suffer the same issue.
They occasionally come up on ebay but are getting rarer & more expensive.
AFAIAA none of the other ones used during the life of the Classic have the issue.
Mine (CA chassis number) went through 2 before I bit the bullet & converted it so the main feed to the headlight bulbs is now through relays & all the switch does is switch the relays.
Plug & Play kits are available - such as the Boomslang - or there are a couple of 'how tos' on the internet to DIY if, like me, you want to go that route.
Boomslang: https://www.paddockspares.com/pm330-boomslang-perf...
DIY conversion: https://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/lights10.htm
Edited by paintman on Monday 3rd November 12:06
DonkeyApple said:
Yup. Good advice. The switchgear dates back to when headlamps were candles and the modern repros aren't any more robust. Sticking modern lamps/bulbs onto a relay is pretty much essential.
?? The power draw on the Holleys is only 25W/30W vs 55W/65W for a typical sealed beam or halogen unit. squirdan said:
Quick question on seats. Do they normally have these kind of risers between the seat rails and the mounting points? Am wondering if a previous owner fitted them? Thanks
Yes. If you leave them out then the seats hit the plastic casing when trying to move it forward and back. If I recall it's the slide handle that catches. Memory is hazy but I certainly recall leaving them out once. Slowly but surely making progress on my Restomod
I like the early look of the Rostyles but I prefer the LSE/ CSK wheels, and as a 2 door 3.9 manual, with soon to be tan leather, the car is basically a Clearwater CSK
Found a set on eBay, they are being redone in diamond cut / black . Meanwhile the steelies have been repurposed for my 1988 90.
Aside from that, as part of my future proofing and small improvements plan, the Lucas CUX and associated parts are coming off next week and new ECU, injectors, loom, and crank sensor kit is being fitted. Semi Sequential injection… There is some method in the madness as I will reuse what comes off for 3.9 engine going into my 90 which is currently 2.5 petrol. Not chasing any major gains, just want it as smooth and torquey as possible but in theory this package should deliver a nice boost so I will report back. If anyone follows Regal Rangerovers you’ll see similar stuff on their website, for me the sensible choice was find a local Haltech dealer. Also no need for me to the digital dash now which is handy.
I like the early look of the Rostyles but I prefer the LSE/ CSK wheels, and as a 2 door 3.9 manual, with soon to be tan leather, the car is basically a Clearwater CSK
Found a set on eBay, they are being redone in diamond cut / black . Meanwhile the steelies have been repurposed for my 1988 90.
Aside from that, as part of my future proofing and small improvements plan, the Lucas CUX and associated parts are coming off next week and new ECU, injectors, loom, and crank sensor kit is being fitted. Semi Sequential injection… There is some method in the madness as I will reuse what comes off for 3.9 engine going into my 90 which is currently 2.5 petrol. Not chasing any major gains, just want it as smooth and torquey as possible but in theory this package should deliver a nice boost so I will report back. If anyone follows Regal Rangerovers you’ll see similar stuff on their website, for me the sensible choice was find a local Haltech dealer. Also no need for me to the digital dash now which is handy.
Abu Dhabi has an entire industrial area called Musaafah. It’s like the biggest UK industrial estate you have ever seen, x100. Literally everything from main dealer service centres, spare parts for JCBs, to small operators. This place has amazing Google Reviews so I went with it
Limestone Rostyles are going on my Shire Blue 90, pretty much period correct for a late 80s pre-Defender
Rather like you DA, I love a project
Long term lurkers of this forum may remember my grey 4 door, sadly was a casualty of unexpected “life changes” and was sold to Neil Clifford of Chris Harris podcast fame - he repainted it Brewster Green.
And I left my Plymouth vogue SE back in the UK when a job opportunity came up here . So when I found this car I couldn’t resist. So satisfying tinkering and changing a few bits. And imagining correctly or not, that I end up with something vaguely equivalent to Kingsley or Kilvington for a LOT less money.
Plus - the locals love Solihulls back catalogue here …
Long term lurkers of this forum may remember my grey 4 door, sadly was a casualty of unexpected “life changes” and was sold to Neil Clifford of Chris Harris podcast fame - he repainted it Brewster Green.
And I left my Plymouth vogue SE back in the UK when a job opportunity came up here . So when I found this car I couldn’t resist. So satisfying tinkering and changing a few bits. And imagining correctly or not, that I end up with something vaguely equivalent to Kingsley or Kilvington for a LOT less money.
Plus - the locals love Solihulls back catalogue here …
@dan are you on JACCK or Dubai Drives whatsapp groups?
I can add you if you like. There are several classics and old landy owners on both groups.
I am perenially looking for a cheap project myself. I had the opportunity to buy MBS's son's LS1 SWB a few years back but we couldn't get a deal done to include having it passed road legal in my name.
I can add you if you like. There are several classics and old landy owners on both groups.
I am perenially looking for a cheap project myself. I had the opportunity to buy MBS's son's LS1 SWB a few years back but we couldn't get a deal done to include having it passed road legal in my name.
Gassing Station | Classic Cars and Yesterday's Heroes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff