Boiler not responding to thermostat?
Discussion
Hi
Have a glowworm boiler, open c/h system with hot tank, etc, not a combi. When the thermostat on the wall demands heat the boiler doesnt fire up. but when the timer for hot water comes on the boiler will fire up.
So to get heating I have to advance the hot water cycle to "on" then turn the thermostat up. (or leave it where it is if the house is cold)
the thermostat on the wall is a year or two old and it replaced the old dial on the wall one with a smart one which has the control unit connected over wi fi to the thermostat hub on the wall. So my suspicion is it isnt the themostat thats at fault. I can see it go "green" when it wants heat, but the boiler, as I say, doesnt respond.
Anyone know the likely issue?
Thanks
Have a glowworm boiler, open c/h system with hot tank, etc, not a combi. When the thermostat on the wall demands heat the boiler doesnt fire up. but when the timer for hot water comes on the boiler will fire up.
So to get heating I have to advance the hot water cycle to "on" then turn the thermostat up. (or leave it where it is if the house is cold)
the thermostat on the wall is a year or two old and it replaced the old dial on the wall one with a smart one which has the control unit connected over wi fi to the thermostat hub on the wall. So my suspicion is it isnt the themostat thats at fault. I can see it go "green" when it wants heat, but the boiler, as I say, doesnt respond.
Anyone know the likely issue?
Thanks
PRTVR said:
Batteries in thermostat need replacing ?
Hmmm.The thermo on the wall I *think" is wired into something for power. It displays red and green demand lights ok.
The remote controller that sets times/temperature, does seem to be getting low but as the green "demand" light comes on at the times Ive set I'm presuming its sending ok to the wall unit.
Maybe there is a battery in the wall unit and its signal is now too low for the boiler to detect.
Thanks
dmc26 said:
sounds like a faulty zone valve not making the end switch..
Would the boiler not be running if it was that though? i.e. heating the water but water not moving round the C/H pipes. Can the boiler be aware of what position the zone valve is in and decide not to fire up if its wrong? Its a 20 year old glow worm so I would suspect not.
CopperBolt said:
dmc26 said:
sounds like a faulty zone valve not making the end switch..
Would the boiler not be running if it was that though? i.e. heating the water but water not moving round the C/H pipes. Can the boiler be aware of what position the zone valve is in and decide not to fire up if its wrong? Its a 20 year old glow worm so I would suspect not.
CopperBolt said:
forest07 said:
No, the room stat sends power to the zone valve motor to open the valve, once open a microswitch is triggered which sends power to the boiler.
Aha! that could be it then. Maybe a hammer and a gentle tap will sort it. If I can find it.forest07 said:
There's a lever on the valve if the motor has not energised push it over to open the valve and the boiler should fire. If it's energised and the boiler has not fired it's the micro switch in the valve.
Cheers F. Either way if it is one of those I guess I need a new valve anyway. Plumber is hopefully coming on friday and can sort that.CopperBolt said:
forest07 said:
There's a lever on the valve if the motor has not energised push it over to open the valve and the boiler should fire. If it's energised and the boiler has not fired it's the micro switch in the valve.
Cheers F. Either way if it is one of those I guess I need a new valve anyway. Plumber is hopefully coming on friday and can sort that.Found a T shaped pipe section with a plastic box on top of the T in the loft. The white little box had a small black plastic tab on the side, all that did was cause the cover to open up when I moved it. Also a flimsy plastic black lever on the front that would not move. Drayton I think the make was of the "box".
Tried belting the t junction pipes with the torch handle but no improvement.
Tried belting the t junction pipes with the torch handle but no improvement.
That 'box' is your zone valve, sounds like you have a 3 way zone valve given the T section.
If you cannot move the lever on the side it could show the valve within the T section is jammed. Try giving the T section a tap with a hammer, hopefully you can free it up.
You could also remove the zone valve head (the box attached to the t section) and try rotating the valve with pliers...
Perhaps read this thread too: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
If you cannot move the lever on the side it could show the valve within the T section is jammed. Try giving the T section a tap with a hammer, hopefully you can free it up.
You could also remove the zone valve head (the box attached to the t section) and try rotating the valve with pliers...
Perhaps read this thread too: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Edited by Audis5b9 on Wednesday 23 October 10:49
Update:
Plumber came friday morning after booking him earliier in the week.(so to me thats not a "callout")
Spent 45 minutes changing the 3 way zone valve. The guarantee on the one he took out expired in 2001 so a bit old!
£160. I thought that was a bit steep as the pumps are about £60 online so £100 labour? Still, its nice to be warm again.
He also said my p*ss poor shower could be improved by pumping the water, cold and hot, to it. Stuart Turner pumps I think were mentioned. Dread to think the cost of that!
Plumber came friday morning after booking him earliier in the week.(so to me thats not a "callout")
Spent 45 minutes changing the 3 way zone valve. The guarantee on the one he took out expired in 2001 so a bit old!
£160. I thought that was a bit steep as the pumps are about £60 online so £100 labour? Still, its nice to be warm again.
He also said my p*ss poor shower could be improved by pumping the water, cold and hot, to it. Stuart Turner pumps I think were mentioned. Dread to think the cost of that!
CopperBolt said:
Update:
Plumber came friday morning after booking him earliier in the week.(so to me thats not a "callout")
Spent 45 minutes changing the 3 way zone valve. The guarantee on the one he took out expired in 2001 so a bit old!
£160. I thought that was a bit steep as the pumps are about £60 online so £100 labour? Still, its nice to be warm again.
He'll have charged you "list" for the valve, whatever that is. A Honeywell one is £90 at Screwfix.Plumber came friday morning after booking him earliier in the week.(so to me thats not a "callout")
Spent 45 minutes changing the 3 way zone valve. The guarantee on the one he took out expired in 2001 so a bit old!
£160. I thought that was a bit steep as the pumps are about £60 online so £100 labour? Still, its nice to be warm again.
Did he have to drain the system down? Doing that, changing the valve, and refilling it is good going in 45 mins.
Sheepshanks said:
He'll have charged you "list" for the valve, whatever that is. A Honeywell one is £90 at Screwfix.
Did he have to drain the system down? Doing that, changing the valve, and refilling it is good going in 45 mins.
I think he only drained it down enough to enable changing the valve. Valve was in the loft so I guess that makes that bit slightly easier.Did he have to drain the system down? Doing that, changing the valve, and refilling it is good going in 45 mins.
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