Garage build

[Edmundo2]

Appreciate there's a number of threads on this subject but I have a few questions on my planned build.

I have a prefab concrete garage sitting on a substantial concrete pad that seems to be in good condition.. It's circa 6-3 meters and my plan is to remove the old garage and build a single skin block garage on the existing pad..I will then batten and use insulated plasterboard on the inside and render or clad the outside. Will go for an apex roof, a double glazed window, single access door and roller main door. I have big dug tiles to go down and will add an electric rad and sealey garage cabinet system.

My questions is ref the floor..This sits about 8 inches below the drive and I previously had to build a concrete ramp at the entrance in order to get the car in/out. My intention is to get the walls up and then pour a new concrete floor over the old one in order to build up the level in line with the height of the driveway and improve the level etc..My questions are

- Will this be ok to pour/fill once walls in place?
- should I remove old ramp first,?
- Should add an additional damp proof course on top of the old floor before building new walls and pouring floor?
- does it need steel mesh in concrete?
- what's the best finish to go straight onto the concrete. Epoxy looks good?
- Likely cost on 18m2 x 20cm

I'm in Leeds.

Thanks for any info.

Ed

[elanfan]

If you’re in Leeds don’t do it! :lol:

[Edmundo2]

Useful, cheers...

elanfan said:

If you’re in Leeds don’t do it! :lol:

[Baldchap]

Question is, what do you need the floor to do?

Might sound silly, but if you're installing heavy equipment then it's very different to just holding a toolbox.

Steel or fibre reinforcement is absolutely necessary for things like vehicle lifts, for example.

[Sandy59]

]
Not an expert but I did have a garage built a couple of years ago.
Based on what I learned I would say :

- Yes, ok to pour concrete when walls in place - see attached pic how mine was done
- Not sure the original ramp would need to be removed, unless you want to add steel mesh & membrane to that area
- Probably a good idea on damp proof membrane
- I would add a fibre or steel mesh for peace of mind, quite cheap
- I went with epoxy, looks good and no issues to date, mine was on top of a screed though

Base before concrete pouring


Drawing for foundation used

[Edmundo2]

Hi. It's a domestic single garage that will have a car parked in it..Hoping for it to have a man cave flavour..Want to do it once and do it right..

Cheers

[Edmundo2]

Thanks Sandy. One concern was ref the existing ramp. If I pour on top of this then the new concrete will be shallow at the thin end of the wedge as it meets driveway and therefore prone to breaking up..common sense is telling me I'd be wise to have it minimum circa 10cm depth at that edge..?

Cheers

[Sandy59]

Edmundo2 said:

Thanks Sandy. One concern was ref the existing ramp. If I pour on top of this then the new concrete will be shallow at the thin end of the wedge as it meets driveway and therefore prone to breaking up..common sense is telling me I'd be wise to have it minimum circa 10cm depth at that edge..?

Cheers

Yes that would probably make the best sense I think to be on the safe side

[Cold]

You seem to have a pre-made solution to having a hydraulic scissor lift recessed into your garage floor. Some people would just have to take advantage of such an opportunity.

[Sandy59]

Cold said:

You seem to have a pre-made solution to having a hydraulic scissor lift recessed into your garage floor. Some people would just have to take advantage of such an opportunity.

Rude not to really

[Edmundo2]

The scissor lift is a good shout but whilst I want to do it right I'm also on a budget. I lift would be great but for the limited use I'll have for it I poss can't justify the cost..

I'll get the build costs together and then take a view on it...Looks like they about £1500 so will see..

[Wozy68]

I had built a single skin garage last year . It’s heated, the roof and sectional door are insulated yet the coldest part of the garage is the concrete floor...... and you fell it under foot on cold days.

Now bear with me on this.....

If your ground level is lower (and it seems you’ll need a hell of a lot of concrete to bring up to ground level). If your not installing a scissor lift or lift post, what about laying a dpc and then dropping a wooden frame built at 400mm centres, insulate between the joists and covering the lot with 22mm plywood.

At 400 centres with 22mm ply it will take the load easily for most jobs (if you wanted to use axle stands just place a piece of timber spanning the joints under the stands to be belt and braces) and away you go...... A warm floor under foot and insulated.

It would save you a whole load of hassle and should cost a lot less.