Discussion
Hi all,
My head has been turned by an XJS. Mid-life crisis memories of Ian Olgilvy's Saint, etc. I'm looking for a car which I can drive about 5000 miles a year, so it will be more than a weekend car. I've been doing research and I'm informed the 4ltr Celebration car is the one to get.
Call me weird, but I prefer the original styling with the arched rear lights and the partial black bumper, plus the V12 engine model, but from what I read that is the road to much expense and heartache.
Is my dream unrealistic? Is it possible to pick up a car from that era I can use on a regular basis without the bills piling up or should I get a 4lr Celebration, which has all the fixes, and take my enjoyment from that?
many thanks for any help/advice you can offer.
My head has been turned by an XJS. Mid-life crisis memories of Ian Olgilvy's Saint, etc. I'm looking for a car which I can drive about 5000 miles a year, so it will be more than a weekend car. I've been doing research and I'm informed the 4ltr Celebration car is the one to get.
Call me weird, but I prefer the original styling with the arched rear lights and the partial black bumper, plus the V12 engine model, but from what I read that is the road to much expense and heartache.
Is my dream unrealistic? Is it possible to pick up a car from that era I can use on a regular basis without the bills piling up or should I get a 4lr Celebration, which has all the fixes, and take my enjoyment from that?
many thanks for any help/advice you can offer.
I am restoring an XJ coupe at the moment at XJ restorations who also restore and service XJS. Much the same applies. They all rust and any that look good on the surface you need to dig deep to the skeleton because they rust from the inside out. The v12 engine is not as scary as people put out there as long as you service it regularly... every 7500 miles without fail and know somewhere that knows the engines. The last two spark plugs are a b
h to get out for instance. With a 70s car you will be living with 12mpg on a run and 70s build issues (mine now has more new steel than original!). 80s HE will get you 15mpg and the last of the line facelifts will better that slightly. Styling is debatable. Personally I like the last of the line 6.0 styling with the black lights and the inproved interior but many hanker for the original. Parts are plentiful and most are quite cheap. If you're not sure have a chat with Keith at XJ restorations and he will be brutally honest about them and really open.
h to get out for instance. With a 70s car you will be living with 12mpg on a run and 70s build issues (mine now has more new steel than original!). 80s HE will get you 15mpg and the last of the line facelifts will better that slightly. Styling is debatable. Personally I like the last of the line 6.0 styling with the black lights and the inproved interior but many hanker for the original. Parts are plentiful and most are quite cheap. If you're not sure have a chat with Keith at XJ restorations and he will be brutally honest about them and really open. I'm restoring mine at the minute. Just one thing i hate about it is they were given the gearbox from hell which completely neuters the v12 engine. Clumsy yank 3 speed which changes up to third at about ten mph and stays there and a really slushy torque converter. Spending 3k on a manual conversion is worth every penny.
greg2k said:
I'm restoring mine at the minute. Just one thing i hate about it is they were given the gearbox from hell which completely neuters the v12 engine. Clumsy yank 3 speed which changes up to third at about ten mph and stays there and a really slushy torque converter. Spending 3k on a manual conversion is worth every penny.
Or spend the same on a GM700R and adaptor plate or a gear vendors splitter if you want to keep it auto. The cars character IMO doesn't suit a manual but the engine does need to be released Around the same cost all in as the manual you quote. I'm looking into it at the moment because I'm restoring my 6.0 XJ coupe and want to keep the auto box but modernise it a tad. The ratio it adds on the top is something like 0.75 off the top of my head. On my car with its 3.45 diff and 50 profile tyres that should mean that currently at 80mph it sits at 2800rpm and with a 700r that should drop to around 2100rpm ish which obviously makes it more relaxed on the motorway and also improve fuel economy on a run from about 16 I get now to about 20.
You can also fit the later 4L80E gearbox from the end of the line models but that is electronically controlled so would require more work with ECUs etc for no real additional gain.
I guess the "best" solution to keep an auto and get the best out of it, albeit expensive solution would be to fit the 700R as above and then fit the gear vendors splitter behind it to in essence give you 8 gears which would improve response across the range and give you a cruise RPM in my case of about 1700rpm at 80 which would give you a motorway MPG of about 25. This would double your cost to about 6k though and that's a lot of fuel.
You can also fit the later 4L80E gearbox from the end of the line models but that is electronically controlled so would require more work with ECUs etc for no real additional gain.
I guess the "best" solution to keep an auto and get the best out of it, albeit expensive solution would be to fit the 700R as above and then fit the gear vendors splitter behind it to in essence give you 8 gears which would improve response across the range and give you a cruise RPM in my case of about 1700rpm at 80 which would give you a motorway MPG of about 25. This would double your cost to about 6k though and that's a lot of fuel.
With that budget I think you are really looking at a 1980s car. The pre-HE 70s cars and the facelift and beyond v12s are really going up at the moment and a mint car can easily cost over 30k.
Getting a decent car for less than 10k these days is really tough. I would recommend that whatever you buy to get it inspected by a specialist before you part with your money. Paying £500 for an inspection can save you £1000s later because a lot of the issues the cars have that cost big bucks are hidden from the casual observer
Getting a decent car for less than 10k these days is really tough. I would recommend that whatever you buy to get it inspected by a specialist before you part with your money. Paying £500 for an inspection can save you £1000s later because a lot of the issues the cars have that cost big bucks are hidden from the casual observer
craigjm said:
Where are you based?
There are a few around like
XJ restorations in Eastbourne
KWE in Thatcham
Miles Classics in Huddersfield
Arun Ltd in Pulborough
Swallows in Bristol
OP - Where you are based is important - you need a local that knows these cars. Mine was with Allders in Long Stratton (Norfolk) for years but I’m about to try Tasker&Lacy near Leeds (on recommendation) now I’ve moved. Just to add a couple of options to Craig’s suggestions.There are a few around like
XJ restorations in Eastbourne
KWE in Thatcham
Miles Classics in Huddersfield
Arun Ltd in Pulborough
Swallows in Bristol
Not Cool said:
Cheers, all. I am in London. Looking at a very promising car this week. Fingers crossed!
The body eats the money the mechanicals are fairly cheap. Look for rust everywhere and spend lots of time underneath looking at the structure and under the bonnet at inner wings etc. Don't rush to buy the first one you see.On the gearbox front I have managed to source one for £250 and XJ restorations are having it completely rebuilt for me so the cost all I'm ready to fit will be just over £1000. I have the engine out of my car at the moment so will be fitted as part of the refit. Just gives you an idea on gearbox upgrade price in terms of four speed auto
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