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shedweller said:
I'm new to crawlers...
Two years ago I bought a 1/24 for the boy to use indoors which we fitted a FPV setup to but recently he's taken to going for walks with it and setting himself little challenges...
It's had some mods (loads of wheel weight and oil shocks) and for its size was very good but the size is quite limiting outdoors...
[url]
Any more information on the FPV? I've always wanted to set one up, preferably controlled from my pc with a steering wheel.Two years ago I bought a 1/24 for the boy to use indoors which we fitted a FPV setup to but recently he's taken to going for walks with it and setting himself little challenges...
It's had some mods (loads of wheel weight and oil shocks) and for its size was very good but the size is quite limiting outdoors...
[url]It's only for an FTX Ravine, but I'm very impressed with what it'll drive over. It's a little slow, but perfect for walking with, and the 2 1/2 and 5 year old.
Repaired by son's FTX Tracer with upgraded JK-RC oil shocks. They seem good quality, bit don't come with mounting hardware and the original shock screws are a bit short. Need to order some longer ones. The springs are a lot stiffer than the OE one, there's no droop at all with the car sat on its wheels. Might swap the original springs onto the new shocks.
I honestly think this must be the hardest worked RC car this side of Kevin Talbot's fleet. It goes out weekly and gets smashed into just about everything, jumped off the half-pipe at the park, all sorts. Apart from snapping 3 of the OE plastic shocks and a cracked body it still runs great.
I honestly think this must be the hardest worked RC car this side of Kevin Talbot's fleet. It goes out weekly and gets smashed into just about everything, jumped off the half-pipe at the park, all sorts. Apart from snapping 3 of the OE plastic shocks and a cracked body it still runs great.
12dan34 said:
Ice_blue_tvr said:
Wanted something to replace the Acme conquistador nitro car , but less fragile and temperamental so went for a brushless model.
Opted to start with 2S batteries and it still absolutely flies.
Pics don't do justice as to how big it is.
A few questions if i can hijack the thread for a moment..
1) is it better to fast or slow charge lipo batteries ?
2) do I need to worry about storing them - ie are they still a fire hazard at rest ? I only have one and have kept it in a fireproof pouch in the garage.
3) are other centre diffs available? A locked or limited slip would work better as an open centre diff isn't very effective when the car gets stuck with the front wheels raised off the ground.
I do miss the noise and drama of a nitro , but this is a) something the kids can have a play with as you can limit the top speed and b) won't annoy any neighbours even on a Sunday.
These look like such good value and I'm tempted to buy one but I really wanted a kit to build and these come almost ready to run. I am planning to get back into this hobby, I had a classic cougar many years ago and was looking at the Procat this time around, a friend had one years ago which I loved but I think a truggy will be better as I'd like to run it in my garden mainly which is grass, quite rough in places.Opted to start with 2S batteries and it still absolutely flies.
Pics don't do justice as to how big it is.
A few questions if i can hijack the thread for a moment..
1) is it better to fast or slow charge lipo batteries ?
2) do I need to worry about storing them - ie are they still a fire hazard at rest ? I only have one and have kept it in a fireproof pouch in the garage.
3) are other centre diffs available? A locked or limited slip would work better as an open centre diff isn't very effective when the car gets stuck with the front wheels raised off the ground.
I do miss the noise and drama of a nitro , but this is a) something the kids can have a play with as you can limit the top speed and b) won't annoy any neighbours even on a Sunday.
How has yours been, I know this was posted last August, have you had much use out of it?
It only really get used in the garden on grass but does get knocked about a bit into garden furniture/walls etc.
It look a big hit last week and a suspension arm bent/wishbone broken.
They are known weak points and some uprated ones had already been provided in the box by the factory, they just aren't fitted. So I'll swap the fronts over soon.
The body shell has taken a beating too, but I've seen a lot of people attempt to reinforce them with fibre tape?
Happy enough with it but think I'm ready to switch the 2S battery with a 3S. It's plenty quick as is but I the voltage protection kicks in once the battery is starting to get low which seems to happen far too soon! Hoping a 3S will help prevent that.. As well as the added speed being a bonus
Just to add, I've ordered some thicker silicone for the centre diff (300k) as the car tends to beach itself once the front wheels are off the ground and it sends power to the unloaded wheels. Trying not to ruin it's stability as the non + models don't have a centre diff and watching vids of them they seem to tumble / scramble around when under full throttle.
Edited by Ice_blue_tvr on Friday 21st April 11:11
With all this crawler talk I had to show you my Landies!
These are based on the Traxxas TRX4-M but with lots of 3d printed added extras which I design myself.
I'm interested mostly in scale looks so these have been spray painted and hand polished.
I hope to design many more parts and fit them in the coming weeks, plus I have a Bronco to work on too!
[url]
These are based on the Traxxas TRX4-M but with lots of 3d printed added extras which I design myself.
I'm interested mostly in scale looks so these have been spray painted and hand polished.
I hope to design many more parts and fit them in the coming weeks, plus I have a Bronco to work on too!
[url]Edited by Guiddy on Friday 21st April 22:52
Not the best video, just a quick test after fitting new suspension arms + shocks.
https://thumbsnap.com/i/MVXkBP3u.mp4
<a href="https://thumbsnap.com/MVXkBP3u" title="Image
https://thumbsnap.com/i/MVXkBP3u.mp4
<a href="https://thumbsnap.com/MVXkBP3u" title="Image
Sorry to spam the thread a little but my dust cover and 200k silicone arrived earlier..
So ofcourse I 3/4 filled the centre diff and had a little blast in the garden!
Much improved ability to unbeach itself now it has some bite in the centre diff. It'll still try and send power to the most unloaded wheel of the 4, but at least it has half a chance now.
Front and rear diffs will get the same treatment I'm just not sure if I should go with a lighter silicone or use the 200k in a much lower dose.? My initial thoughts are that I would probably like to go thicker on the centre so 200k might be OK for front and rear?
On that note, what's the best way to clean up the silicone if I want to change? Just pull it all apart?
Will also get some lighter oil for the shocks to help absorb a bit of bounce when on rougher grass. Doubt I'll really be doing big jumps with it. Not that you'd know given the state of the shell
So ofcourse I 3/4 filled the centre diff and had a little blast in the garden!
Much improved ability to unbeach itself now it has some bite in the centre diff. It'll still try and send power to the most unloaded wheel of the 4, but at least it has half a chance now.
Front and rear diffs will get the same treatment I'm just not sure if I should go with a lighter silicone or use the 200k in a much lower dose.? My initial thoughts are that I would probably like to go thicker on the centre so 200k might be OK for front and rear?
On that note, what's the best way to clean up the silicone if I want to change? Just pull it all apart?
Will also get some lighter oil for the shocks to help absorb a bit of bounce when on rougher grass. Doubt I'll really be doing big jumps with it. Not that you'd know given the state of the shell
Edited by Ice_blue_tvr on Monday 24th April 15:04
Deadlysub said:
Deadlysub said:
20 minutes driving and the gearbox has gone ??“ Not a stupid question at all. Yes, the original Monster Beetle gearbox is not known for its durability. As you noted bearings are a must. Much of the MB gearbox problems lie with the stamped alloy side plates. Under strain, they flex outward allowing the differential gears to separate and skip over each other. The tiny alloy diff gears are quickly damaged if this occurs repeatedly. There are two "fixes" for this :search for the "Oldfrogshot" screw mod on Tamiyaclub. This involves tapping one of the diff outdrives and then using a tiny screw to tie the diff outdrives together to prevent separation. The other method is to just shim the backside of the diff gears with washer(s) to keep things tight. Be careful not to overshim it or binding may result.
The other issue with the MB concerns the outdrives and half shafts themselves. Under greater power the hex ends can round off and create futher slippage. This fix is easy. Replace the old hex headed asseambly with proper "dogbone" half shafts from the re-release Frog. They fit right in with no modification.
Lastly, you could replace everything with RR or Thorp hardware (ball diff and dogbones, etc.) but these parts are now rare and pricey. Good luck!”
Matt Cup said:
Deadlysub said:
Deadlysub said:
20 minutes driving and the gearbox has gone ??The other method is to just shim the backside of the diff gears with washer(s) to keep things tight. Be careful not to overshim it or binding may result.
Guiddy said:
With all this crawler talk I had to show you my Landies!
These are based on the Traxxas TRX4-M but with lots of 3d printed added extras which I design myself.
I'm interested mostly in scale looks so these have been spray painted and hand polished.
I hope to design many more parts and fit them in the coming weeks, plus I have a Bronco to work on too!
That looks great. Did you modify the body or is it available off the shelf?These are based on the Traxxas TRX4-M but with lots of 3d printed added extras which I design myself.
I'm interested mostly in scale looks so these have been spray painted and hand polished.
I hope to design many more parts and fit them in the coming weeks, plus I have a Bronco to work on too!
Edited by Guiddy on Friday 21st April 22:52
(Just in case I need one…)
Matt Cup said:
Deadlysub said:
Deadlysub said:
20 minutes driving and the gearbox has gone ??“ Not a stupid question at all. Yes, the original Monster Beetle gearbox is not known for its durability. As you noted bearings are a must. Much of the MB gearbox problems lie with the stamped alloy side plates. Under strain, they flex outward allowing the differential gears to separate and skip over each other. The tiny alloy diff gears are quickly damaged if this occurs repeatedly. There are two "fixes" for this :search for the "Oldfrogshot" screw mod on Tamiyaclub. This involves tapping one of the diff outdrives and then using a tiny screw to tie the diff outdrives together to prevent separation. The other method is to just shim the backside of the diff gears with washer(s) to keep things tight. Be careful not to overshim it or binding may result.
The other issue with the MB concerns the outdrives and half shafts themselves. Under greater power the hex ends can round off and create futher slippage. This fix is easy. Replace the old hex headed asseambly with proper "dogbone" half shafts from the re-release Frog. They fit right in with no modification.
Lastly, you could replace everything with RR or Thorp hardware (ball diff and dogbones, etc.) but these parts are now rare and pricey. Good luck!”
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