Old diecast toys - Dinky etc.
Discussion
As above. There'll be a nasty rivet holding the glazing in that can be a b
h to deal with. I used to grind them down rather than drill the head out, but the baseplate to body stuff, small pilot hole and then a larger hole to suit the size of the rivet or fixing you'll be using.
I never used the repro rivets as although they won't fool a serious collector, I have seen people taken in by them, so it was one thing I used to make sure my restorations could never be passed off as original.
h to deal with. I used to grind them down rather than drill the head out, but the baseplate to body stuff, small pilot hole and then a larger hole to suit the size of the rivet or fixing you'll be using.I never used the repro rivets as although they won't fool a serious collector, I have seen people taken in by them, so it was one thing I used to make sure my restorations could never be passed off as original.
Red Firecracker said:
You're a star.I'll check to see how far Humbrol Bright Red, is from RAL3001 (if I can find the RAL book at work). Another question (I'm afraid) – brake fluid or Nitromors?
With my typographer hat on I'm not 100% convinced that decal is spot on (font on the model is, so far as I can tell, wider) but for £1 I won't argue!
Evangelion said:
Yertis said:
You're a star.
I'll check to see how far Humbrol Bright Red, is from RAL3001 (if I can find the RAL book at work). Another question (I'm afraid) – brake fluid or Nitromors?
With my typographer hat on I'm not 100% convinced that decal is spot on (font on the model is, so far as I can tell, wider) but for £1 I won't argue!
No worries.I'll check to see how far Humbrol Bright Red, is from RAL3001 (if I can find the RAL book at work). Another question (I'm afraid) – brake fluid or Nitromors?
With my typographer hat on I'm not 100% convinced that decal is spot on (font on the model is, so far as I can tell, wider) but for £1 I won't argue!
For paint stripping, neither. I used to use caustic soda (available from Homebase etc), which is blooming nasty stuff. Plastic paint kettle, model in that then pour boiling water over it. Then sprinkle some caustic soda in, but not much. Helps to have a wire on the model so you can get it out easily. Once all the paint is off, give it a really good wash in clean water.
The decal is slightly wrong, you're correct, but 'they're all like that Sir' for that model!
Brake fluid, slow and smelly.
Nitromors, castrated by the EU.
Caustic soda, gets rid of all the paint quickly with the added benefit of cleaning your drains afterwards. You have to keep your eye on it as if you leave it in too long it'll eat the model away. Another benefit, once the mix is cold, you can pop the glazing unit in and it'll clean that up nicely as well.
ETA: I should of course warn you that caustic soda is hazardous and only the wearing of a full hazmat suit will protect you from the obvious and immediate Armageddon of adding it to boiling water. (mind your eyes and skin, it burns like a sod!)
Nitromors, castrated by the EU.
Caustic soda, gets rid of all the paint quickly with the added benefit of cleaning your drains afterwards. You have to keep your eye on it as if you leave it in too long it'll eat the model away. Another benefit, once the mix is cold, you can pop the glazing unit in and it'll clean that up nicely as well.
ETA: I should of course warn you that caustic soda is hazardous and only the wearing of a full hazmat suit will protect you from the obvious and immediate Armageddon of adding it to boiling water. (mind your eyes and skin, it burns like a sod!)
Edited by Red Firecracker on Sunday 26th February 17:45
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