Airfix 1:72 Vulcan B.2
Discussion
Made a start on replacing the panel lines flatted away after fitting the nose:
Using Dymo tape as a guide:
Not bad considering the amount of filler around there:
Still some corrections to make, but could have been worse.
Also neatened up the lines above the intakes. As with some of the underside panel lines, after filling seams, these just kind of disappear with no obviously defined end point:
Also noticed that on the underside, there’s a circular feature (radio altimeter transmitter/receiver?) on one one side, but not the other. Ditto the two adjacent rectangular features on the opposite side:
All three features are symmetrical on the instructions. I’m pretty sure Airfix said at a talk I attended a few years back, that the paint/decal instructions were taken directly from the model CAD, so should match the model exactly:
Hmmm.
Using Dymo tape as a guide:
Not bad considering the amount of filler around there:
Still some corrections to make, but could have been worse.
Also neatened up the lines above the intakes. As with some of the underside panel lines, after filling seams, these just kind of disappear with no obviously defined end point:
Also noticed that on the underside, there’s a circular feature (radio altimeter transmitter/receiver?) on one one side, but not the other. Ditto the two adjacent rectangular features on the opposite side:
All three features are symmetrical on the instructions. I’m pretty sure Airfix said at a talk I attended a few years back, that the paint/decal instructions were taken directly from the model CAD, so should match the model exactly:
Hmmm.
I thought at first glance that the fit of the splitters was extraordinarily good, given the rest of the kit. However, having now tried to fit them for real, the problems became apparent. In order to get the intake inner faces to be free of steps (or as good as possible) I’ve added plasticard tabs to prevent the inserts from bowing inwards:
Also tweaked the plates outwards with some pliers:
This is the resulting ‘best’ fit I can get:
This area of the intakes needs to be as flat as possible because it’s clearly visible from the outside of the model. Brilliant design to put a complex joint between five separate parts right there.
So…more Milliput, more sanding (now waiting for more Sanding sticks to arrive).
Also tweaked the plates outwards with some pliers:
This is the resulting ‘best’ fit I can get:
This area of the intakes needs to be as flat as possible because it’s clearly visible from the outside of the model. Brilliant design to put a complex joint between five separate parts right there.
So…more Milliput, more sanding (now waiting for more Sanding sticks to arrive).
This is why trying to correct a poorly fitting kit is such a miserable experience:
Flatted the intake splitter filler back:
Looked OK, felt OK, so applied a guide coat:
Which revealed the inevitable errors and mis-matched curves. The upper lip transition is going to be a real pain in the arse to correct, but if it fitted in one place, it didn’t in another, so…
Then the missing circular panel line. Always difficult to scribe because a scriber inevitably digs into the edge of the template. A needle is about the only option, which gouges and tears the plastic rather than cutting it. So I’ve ended up partially filling the new feature because of the ragged edges:
Every time some detail needs filling, it’s another day to let it set, another round of flatting and profiling, and another guide coat. The end result of this thing is never going to justify the effort, I just want it finished and off the bench asap now.
Flatted the intake splitter filler back:
Looked OK, felt OK, so applied a guide coat:
Which revealed the inevitable errors and mis-matched curves. The upper lip transition is going to be a real pain in the arse to correct, but if it fitted in one place, it didn’t in another, so…
Then the missing circular panel line. Always difficult to scribe because a scriber inevitably digs into the edge of the template. A needle is about the only option, which gouges and tears the plastic rather than cutting it. So I’ve ended up partially filling the new feature because of the ragged edges:
Every time some detail needs filling, it’s another day to let it set, another round of flatting and profiling, and another guide coat. The end result of this thing is never going to justify the effort, I just want it finished and off the bench asap now.
dr_gn said:
This is why trying to correct a poorly fitting kit is such a miserable experience:
..the missing circular panel line. Always difficult to scribe because a scriber inevitably digs into the edge of the template. A needle is about the only option, which gouges and tears the plastic rather than cutting it.
Leather punch?..the missing circular panel line. Always difficult to scribe because a scriber inevitably digs into the edge of the template. A needle is about the only option, which gouges and tears the plastic rather than cutting it.
Regbuser said:
dr_gn said:
This is why trying to correct a poorly fitting kit is such a miserable experience:
..the missing circular panel line. Always difficult to scribe because a scriber inevitably digs into the edge of the template. A needle is about the only option, which gouges and tears the plastic rather than cutting it.
Leather punch?..the missing circular panel line. Always difficult to scribe because a scriber inevitably digs into the edge of the template. A needle is about the only option, which gouges and tears the plastic rather than cutting it.
2) The surface isn’t quite flat.
I think maybe I should fill both sides and just use the decals. In fact why didn’t I think of that before
pingu393 said:
What do you use for guide coat?
Tamiya fine surface primer spray, decanted into the airbrush.You can get much thinner coats, and waste less using this method. Straight from the can would have obscured loads of panel lines by now due to the ridiculous amount of work and re-work it’s taking. Even with thin, localised coats, I’m having to regularly go over existing panel lines to keep them sharp enough to hold a wash at the end of the finishing process.
Zebedee22 said:
Thanks I thought they might be
Have a look at this... https://www.aviationancestry.co.uk/blog/?page_id=2... ...and scroll down to 'Ground Handling Markings'Taita said:
How you getting on OP?
Lost interest in it - far too much hassle to get right. I’ve stuck the fin on:Which needed a lot of fettling and filling to eliminate the worst of the poor fit.
Then the control surfaces, which are separate items:
These aren’t a great fit either, with strangely profiled hinge pieces which don’t fit flush with the wings:
So they needed trimming, flatting, and the caps filling to make them less obvious:
Also the gaps aren’t consistent, so plasticard shims need adding to get them equal-ish:
No idea why they bothered to make them all separate - I’ve never seen a Vulcan on the ground with these surfaces displaced to any significant degree. Would have been better to mould them into the wings.
Anyway, fitted the seats:
Applied the controls decal to the canopy, and painted the inside with Matt clear:
Still finding sink marks all over the thing, all of which need filling, but it just gets very tedious very quickly.
Taita said:
I've mentioned a few times, but is the manufacturer aware of how bad this kit is?
Surely this is one of those 'christ we accidentally posted a prototype' moments. No manufacturer would be happy with that?
I’m pretty sure they’ll be aware of the issues with this kit - many are in the series of build videos I posted a while back, so they’re not limited to my example.Surely this is one of those 'christ we accidentally posted a prototype' moments. No manufacturer would be happy with that?
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